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Thread: powder measure resivior materials

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    powder measure resivior materials

    My Hornady measure has the inevitable melty plastic thing going on. I was wondering what material that you replaced it with. Looking at the size (2.25") mcmaster has Acrylic, polycarbonate and PETG that look to be a suitable size. Is one any better than the others? Would love to have something that doesn't melt.

  2. #2
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    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Check out Dram Worx. I don't know if they have the specific one for your particular measure but probably. They are a little spendy but I have 2 of their glass powder measure reservoirs and really love them. Plus they have extended capacity versions which are nice on progressive machines. Nice thick and tough borosilicate glass, can't as for a better material for the task!
    ~ Chris


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  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    I have 2 of the Dramworx hoppers and am thinking about getting a 3rd. I heartily recommend them.
    Chuck

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I bought a glass tube for my Dillon, took 2 try’s off internet to get correct close to right size, then had to modify base. Worked but glass is fragile and must be handled with care. Don’t recommend this route, but would be an option.

  6. #6
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    Contact Hornady direct by phone. They have a new hopper that solves that problem, and they'll probably send it to you for free.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    I bought a glass tube for my Dillon, took 2 try’s off internet to get correct close to right size, then had to modify base. Worked but glass is fragile and must be handled with care. Don’t recommend this route, but would be an option.
    If you are just using regular glass tube, probably thin and delicate.

    The Dram Worx glass is really thick borosilicate glass, aka. Pyrex. Pretty universally known for being very tough stuff. Its certainly not indestructible but if a measure is handled rough enough to break a DW glass, its rough enough to damage the measure too.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
    Accuracy, Power & Speed

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReloaderFred View Post
    Contact Hornady direct by phone. They have a new hopper that solves that problem, and they'll probably send it to you for free.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    Is that the greyish plastic? If they changed it since they started making the LNL AP it's probably the old one because this press had the old priming system on it.

    They charged me for priming parts I needed because I wasn't the original owner of the press. Prob ably not a good sign to getting a new hopper for free.

  9. #9
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I had one trash out on a early 80's issue measure.
    They sent me one for the new ones for free, and it fit.
    Everyone can learn from their mistakes.
    However; it's less painful, and cheaper to learn from the mistakes of others.

    Old age and treachery will always overcome youth, and skill.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I have also Used Dram Works. IT a Great improvement over the Plastic Hoppers. If you send him the Measure He will make a Custom Hopper. Mine were both Ohaus duo Measure
    Ward is a Pleasure to deal with
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
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    And then there's the question of time.
    If the plastic one lasted 10 years before it became unserviceable, an inexpensive direct replacement will last another 10 years.
    Sometimes the fiscally correct decision is to just buy another plastic one

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by drac0nic View Post
    Is that the greyish plastic? If they changed it since they started making the LNL AP it's probably the old one because this press had the old priming system on it.

    They charged me for priming parts I needed because I wasn't the original owner of the press. Prob ably not a good sign to getting a new hopper for free.
    They had the new design at the SHOT Show this past January, and I asked the rep if this one would resist melting and becoming discolored. He said it would and to call their service department for a replacement.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  13. #13
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    Just empty the powder out of your measure when you finish loading for the day.
    Titegroup isn't that hard to empty back into the "Can".
    I HATE auto-correct


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  14. #14
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    I often leave some powder in my progressive loaders(I know it’s bad). The only one that I have melted is rcbs. My dillons(some of which have been in use since 1986) have no problems. I purchased a dramworks for one of my rcbs uniflows and really like it.

  15. #15
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    I had some 231 left in the powder measure of my Dad’s Dillon 550 from the last time it was used before his final illness (he passed away almost three years ago.) I dumped that powder out into temporary storage and refilled the (undamaged) reservoir with a “fresh” batch of 231 from the same jug. After I shoot these bullets, I’ll put the old powder back in and load a small number to see if there is any difference. No, I don’t recommend leaving powder in a reservoir for 5 years or more, but it isn’t always the disaster some would have you believe.

    Using a powder measure with a reservoir that is made of something non-reactive and about air tight is almost like leaving it in the jug. I like the Pyrex ones as well as the “medicine bottle” style used by bench resters. Random substitutions can lead to bad surprises.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReloaderFred View Post
    Contact Hornady direct by phone. They have a new hopper that solves that problem, and they'll probably send it to you for free.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    Looks like the best idea to me , but I am a tightwad

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    Just empty the powder out of your measure when you finish loading for the day.
    Titegroup isn't that hard to empty back into the "Can".
    I find it a pain when using a turret press. The powder measure is between two dies that have to be removed when taking it out. I'd rather just leave the powder in the measure for the duration of the batch I'm working on. This could be several days. That's why I ordered a Pyrex hopper.

    I am one of those people that melted a plastic hopper. It was an RCBS Uniflow and the powder was left for about 3 weeks. The powder might have been Unique. RCBS gave me a hopper for no charge.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ickisrulz View Post
    I find it a pain when using a turret press. The powder measure is between two dies that have to be removed when taking it out. I'd rather just leave the powder in the measure for the duration of the batch I'm working on. This could be several days. That's why I ordered a Pyrex hopper.

    I am one of those people that melted a plastic hopper. It was an RCBS Uniflow and the powder was left for about 3 weeks. The powder might have been Unique. RCBS gave me a hopper for no charge.
    Howdy neighbor
    I don't trust my memory enough to leave powder in mine , and one of the things I like about the Lee measures for press mounting the pro auto disk and auto drum can be turned off and easily removed to empty .

  19. #19
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    I don't know about melting, but my Dillon measure discolored to the point that I couldn't see through it. The new one has been fine over several years after I lined it with a piece of document cover.

    Of course, Dillon could have changed the plastic so it doesn't discolor, but I'm happy with the liner.

    I leave powder in the measure all the time since I shoot hundreds of rounds a week and only use the one powder with the one load for my pistol.

  20. #20
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    powder measure resivior materials

    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    Howdy neighbor
    I don't trust my memory enough to leave powder in mine , and one of the things I like about the Lee measures for press mounting the pro auto disk and auto drum can be turned off and easily removed to empty .
    This is why one of my first reloading steps is labeling my powder measure with loading specs- caliber, bullet type/weight, powder type, charge weight, OAL.

    Then I double check the powder can label against my reloading log and powder measure label.
    And a visual check against my reloading log such as ‘light gray round ‘flakes’

    And do the reverse when I empty the powder measure, but I do the visual check against what is remaining in the can/jug before pouring the powder back in.

    I do not trust my memory and try to idiot proof my steps as much as possible.

    And while I try not to leave powder in the measure, life can get in the way and it sits there for a few weeks.

    So I follow about the same procedure when restarting a session. I do not just trust the labels, I visually check the powder against my description and powder jug.

    My Dillon powder measures are discolored, but not melted.
    They are also over 20 years old and at least 2 owners, so they owe me nothing.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check