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Thread: The quest for a decent woods rig

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    That flap will also keep you from banging you rifle stock on your hand gun and scratching it up.
    I actually never have this problem because I am right handed but strongly left eye dominant. I shoot handguns like a right handed person using my left eye. I shoot long guns like a left-handed person (it is the reason why I avoid bolt actions and prefer leverguns and single-shots). So I carry my rifle on with my left hand on the grip and right hand on the forend but my holster is on the right. Now since this flap holster is also a cross-draw shoulder type I wouldn't use it that way with a rifle.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    We have a Tandy here its really nice to have a store to see items before buying.
    I made this set from Tandy patterns 20 or more years ago for a Ruger old army and carried a few quick loads for my TC .54 renegade when deer hunting.
    The ball closers like on this holster I find to be a big improvement over snaps very quite to open or close and they fasten securely even after all these years.
    Last edited by onelight; 12-08-2019 at 10:11 PM.

  3. #23
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    skeettx's Avatar
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    Great thread, thank you
    Mike
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    Ball closers are quieter...not sure how much that matters though. If you are drawing an iron-sighed (close range) handgun on a deer from a holster you are already screwed. It's gonna be gone unless it's the stupidest (like a little baby yearling or something that ain't worth shooting) deer in the world. Hammering back can also alert them, but I've found that since virtually no movement is made following the hammering back, they will look right at you but not flee (well, smart ones will). G2 'tenders have obnoxiously loud hammers IMO.

    Ball closers are also traditional and look cool IMO. I have a ball closer on my tanker holster (which has a strap) for my 686.

    The cons are that they are inconsistent (can get hung up, effected by humidity and temp) and wear out the leather (this is why a snap is better IMO on a flap holster, you can't replace the flap easily). With a strap or thong then a ball makes more sense IMO. When the strap of leather on my 686 holster wears out, I can just cut a new one and sew it on. Matching the dye would be the greatest challenge.

    Drilling out and re-setting a new snap is almost trivial and costs only cents.

    I found Tandy's patterns to be kinda silly. AL Stohlman was a form over function guy. I am a form follows function guy. Too large, too loose, clumsy retention, too low on the hip, limited versitility (if I can't find a way to make a holster fit multiple places I consider it a failure). I personally dislike closed bottom holsters for a variety of reasons. The only one I was somewhat happy with were ones I made from his Ruger single action patters--a single six and a blackhawk. I don't like or own single action revolvers--these were made for in-laws. The design of those "western" holsters seems to go better with the design of a single action (like the old army) anyway. In fact my Father-in-Law has a stainless Old Army that he doesn't have a holster for...I'm going to show him that holster see what he thinks.
    Last edited by curioushooter; Yesterday at 02:35 PM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    Could this be done with a "Speedy Sticther"?
    Goodness no. I really dislike all those tools that have become the norm in leatherworking these days.

    I always double needle saddle stitch with braided hemp or linen cord. Braided cord is much stronger and longer lasting that twisted thread. Synthetic threads, while strong, tear through leather. I also like to be able to control the color of the stitching. I think white or black threads look ghastly (same for products like edgekote). I either use a waxed tan brown dyed cord that matches the color I am going to use, or I use an unwaxed cord and let it take the dye. The problem with that approach seems to be that the cord always dyes darker than the leather using the same dye. It's also harder to work with unwaxed cord.

    Another advantage to saddle stitching (besides it being stronger and longer lasting) is that it is repairable. Most commercial holsters fail due to the thread rotting (some due to the chemical tanning agents used in the first half of the 20th century). Once it became know to my friends and family that I did some holster making boxes full of old crappy holsters with good leather but rotten thread that was coming apart started to appear. Explaining to people that their holster belongs in the trash and that its more trouble to repair such a holster than to use it as a pattern a build a duplicate can be difficult.
    Last edited by curioushooter; Yesterday at 02:52 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check