H&G 6 cavity sprue plate

[wv109323]

I have a H&G 68 mold 6 cavity. It has the the sprue plate with the trough between cavities. I have tried several technics but I seldom get 6 good boolits per pour. The lead spills over and the cavity does not get completely filled..
I would like to buy a sprue plate without the trough. The info I found on suppliers was quite dated. So does anyone know who makes a 6 cavity sprue plate?

[Mitch]

H&G has been long gone.I would think it will have to be custom made.May be a bit more practice and you will be fine to .Or a perfect time to ladel to ladle cast. and alot of luck some one might have a spruplate for it

[John Boy]

wv - you don't need a new sprue plate if: you put the ladle spout in the sprue hole for a 5 second pour in each hole.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

One technique to try, is slightly tilting the entire mold, so the excess molten alloy spills over the front end of the mold. Fill the cavity closest to the front end first, then work your way back. If you maintain the tilt, alloy won't splash toward the next sprue hole to be filled.

[skeettx]

I hope you are able to find what you want

If that is not the case, maybe this will help you casting quality bullets.
Use a hot plate to keep the mold hot, also keep the alloy temperature a bit higher.
The hot plate will help the 6, 8, and 10 cavity molds make GOOD STUFF

I use two molds, pre-heat molds, fill #1, set on the hot plate to harden sprue, fill #2, set on the hot plate to harden sprue,
Pick up #1 and cut sprue and empty mold and refill and set on hot plate. Then same with #2.


Mike

[dale2242]

Are you using a bottom pour or ladle pouring?

[wv109323]

I am using a bottom pour Lyman 25. I have tried tilting the mold but the lead seems to splash over and partially fill the next cavity and the sprue has hardened when I go to pour directly into that cavity. The other thing is the 6 cavity mold is heavy to hold tilted for a long casting session. Has anyone have ideas on a tilted mold guide?
I could try higher temps and try to keep sprue plate hotter.

[Petander]

It shouldn't harden that fast on the plate. Try more heat on hot plate / alloy.

My H&G#130 has a similar sprue plate, when I use the mold solo I open the sprue plate with my hand,sprue drops on my right hand glove and goes back to pot.

[toallmy]

Preheating the mold more will probably make it a joy to cast with . I only have 1 H&G mold but even after poring all 10 cavities I still have to wait for the sprue to harden before cutting , by hand as posted above , although I drop the sprue in my left hand .

[Jack Stanley]

Do the tilt like JonB says about ten or fifteen degrees . Along with slow down the speed the lead is filling by closing down the valve stop . With mine I start with the farthest hole and push the mold away as it fills but use either direction that works for you .

Jack

[lightman]

Do the tilt like JonB says about ten or fifteen degrees . Along with slow down the speed the lead is filling by closing down the valve stop . With mine I start with the farthest hole and push the mold away as it fills but use either direction that works for you .

Jack

This is the technique that I use. Once I got the hang of it I actually prefer the trough. But maybe one of the custom mold makers could make you a sprue plate.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I am using a bottom pour Lyman 25. I have tried tilting the mold but the lead seems to splash over and partially fill the next cavity and the sprue has hardened when I go to pour directly into that cavity. The other thing is the 6 cavity mold is heavy to hold tilted for a long casting session. Has anyone have ideas on a tilted mold guide?
I could try higher temps and try to keep sprue plate hotter.

I can totally understand the issue with Lyman's mold guide. I use the Lee 4-20 pot, and with it's tiny "shelf" of a mold guide, it's actually more of a challenge to keep a standard mold level...so casting with a slight tilt is almost second nature.

Is there anyway to easily remove part (or all) of the Lyman mold guide? so you can create a single point support, to make tilting the mold easier?

[Jack Stanley]

With the guide on my RCBS I move it completely out of the way . My guide is a block of wood that hold the mold at the right distance from the spout . It is attached to the base plate by a couple wood screws . Two pieces of flat steel center the mold where you want it to be .

Solid and durable and with the H&G molds there is still enough room to fit a normal ingot mold under the spout if need be .

Jack

[dale2242]

I cast with H&G 4 cavity molds and had to perfect my technique to prevent slop over.
Try adjusting the flow rate and distance between the pour spout and the mold.
I don`t use the trough. I pour directly into each hole in the sprue plate.
With a little practice you too can make it work.
I looked into buying sprue plates for 4 cavity H&G molds.
They were expensive. Having a plate for a 6 cavity mold would be more than I would want to pay.....dale

[sagamore-one]

Try raising the melt temperature dramatically. I run around 850 degrees with Lyman #2 alloy or Lino. Delete the guide and build a slanted shelf out of wood higher in back than front. Preheat mould ! Fill from near to far with generous sprue. Mould will glide over the wood.
I am going to catch flak , but it works well for me. I use 6,8, and 10 cavity H&G moulds in pairs. Fill one and set aside, while it is setting up I fill the second mould. I can drain a 22 lb pot in short order.
The trough is not the problem, temp and technique are.

[Dragonheart]

Try raising the melt temperature dramatically. I run around 850 degrees with Lyman #2 alloy or Lino. Delete the guide and build a slanted shelf out of wood higher in back than front. Preheat mould ! Fill from near to far with generous sprue. Mould will glide over the wood.
I am going to catch flak , but it works well for me. I use 6,8, and 10 cavity H&G moulds in pairs. Fill one and set aside, while it is setting up I fill the second mould. I can drain a 22 lb pot in short order.
The trough is not the problem, temp and technique are.

You won't catch any flack from me. Kudos for telling him how to correct the problem. The old guys at H&G knew how to make the best mold and these molds are still better than what you buy today. The trough works great when the alloy is hot enough. The worst thing that can happen is you get frosted, but perfectly filled out bullets, which shoot or powder coat just the same.

A cast iron pan turned upside down will work as a mold guide or you can make your own as I did. If I had to hold up the weight of a H&G 10 cavity mold I wouldn't last as long as the 20 pound pot.

[oger]

Play with your technique. The mold and the pot must be very hot and you must play with the way you fill. The only problem I have with 6 cavity is that it's awful heavy for and old man.

[FISH4BUGS]

Just having finished a manic casting session with my 6 cavity #503 (well over 1400 bullets), which was NEW IN THE BOX when I bought it, I found that the mould was doing exactly the same thing.
I found that running the lead at 700 and making sure the mould is WELL HEATED UP before starting alleviates that problem.
Sit the mould on a hot plate, a gas stove on very low heat or on top of the pot before you start. Let it thoroughly warm up.
Once it comes up to temp, it should be fine.
I started with a stone cold mould and couldn't get a decent bullet for over 20 full casts.

[Dragonheart]

I have never been able to run a mold at a verified 700 degrees and get acceptable bullets. My bottom is 750 and higher when I run multiple molds, but whatever works for you. A hot plate does save time on getting the mold up to temp.