Grrr. Broke a third one!!

[cwlongshot]

I cannot be alone!! I know I use my Equiptment more then most. But I never abuse and always lubricate stress points.

This is the fourth break on four different Lyman 450/4500 sizers!!!!

First I broke two handles. Made I used vice grips for a handle for a while. They picked up some reverse rotation bits and got the broke stud out. I used the handle from another unit but Maybe 200 bullets later, I broke the replacement. GRRR

SO, I made a new handle complete with the toggle portion.

Over the Summer I bought a Lyman 450 at a yard sale. So I swapped in those toggle parts and handle. Broke THAT HANDLE in short order... So back to those vice grips.

I also wore out the bolts on my first 450. Replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Those hold up as one would expect.

Well just now I broke another toggle set. What the fudge!!!

Mostly Im just seating gas checks. Maybe 10% In sizing as well. I 99% POWDER COAT!

I AM NOT USING THIS FOR LUBING BULLETS.

Am I alone here? Cannot fathom that I am. Im gonna make a new toggle outta flat stock and a threaded union. Thats easiest. Little cutting, couple holes 1.050 apart and a bit of welding and then re hardening and Ill have it. I should make up a couple as they really seem to be a consumable part.

Before I start this...

Is anyone making a better part??

CW

[alamogunr]

I remember seeing a solution somewhere that recommended brazing a steel washer over the pivot hole on both legs to reinforce it. I would think this would prevent breakage. Also, using a washer that was a little thicker should add an extra measure of safety. Try a Google search.

BTW, I haven't done this on my 450, but should.

[Jeff Michel]

I ran into the same problem. Cold reloading room, stiff lube. I attached a heater to all three of my lube sizers and run them about ten minutes before I start in. This is with 50/50 and 2500. Nothing with a reputation of being temperature critical in use. Problem 100 % solved.

[smithnframe]

I've been using a Lyman 450 since 1971 with nary a problem.......you must be hard/ abusive with yours!

[Greg S]

RCBS LAM2.

[onelight]

Mine has seen no where near the use of a lot of you guys but have had it more than 30 years never a problem.

[Winger Ed.]

It's too cold for what you're using in it.

[swheeler]

Abusive/improper use of equipment, rookie mistake. Nary a problem with 450 or 4500 after many 100k bullets

[cupajoe]

Dang, sounds like you need a heater or at least chip the ice off before you start. Don't know how to do the "pullin your chain" thingy.

[Petrol & Powder]

Not sure how that happened.

[Littlewolf]

ive bent the handle on my #45 more than once it's eventually just going to break if i keep running it in the winter without a heater even with the finger smash soft lube wax i use in it

[Walks]

I've been using the same 450 since 1976. Even when I was sizing down #454190 cast of pure linotype to .452, I never had any problems. Had my 450 bolted to a Lyman heater clear through a 2×6". C-Clamped to my picnic table on the patio.
These Days I'm using WLL - BAC. Plug in heater for 10min, start sizing. Unplug heater after 10min, the lube is flowing well by then.

[cwlongshot]

Mostly I crimp gas checks and size bullets. Probably 90% of the time.
When sizing its Powder Coated bullets. No lube used.

I have occasionally lubed the powder coated bullets to size them when they are large. Like sizing a 460/454.

By and large 99% of my sizing is to within a few thousandths of final diameter.
But as I said, I dont size on the 450. I crimp gas checks and then use a push thru NOE/LEE.

Tonight I needed about 25 358 RCBS 358-200’s. Checked and sized 358. I had done a couple 359 and they went tru so easy it was not completely resized so I ran them thru 358. I was gonna shoot them to be sure that that size would be OK in a 356 Winchester single shot that I am just starting to shoot cast thru. So I was sizing and seating a GC. It broke when bringing “up” the handle. It hadnt been a difficult lift.

CW

[OldBearHair]

I am thinking ; use carbon steel as thick as possible 4130 -- Heat red and shape while red only -- flatten to thickness desired -- grind to shape leaving more edge distance around holes. -- drill holes -- heat to red, cover in ashes until cool -- Heat treat -- temper -- and then there is the aircraft sheetmetal rule to use 1 1/2 times the diameter of the hole for edge distance minimally.

[Petrol & Powder]

While the design places the fulcrum point right at that 90 corner of the handle, and therefore near that hole in the corner; there shouldn't be a huge amount of stress on that part.

You could fabricate a piece with a gusset on the inside of that 90 degree angle and that would add a bit of material to the inside portion. There's nothing that could be done to the outer edge because it must fit on top of the ram.

I'm inclined to think a crack developed right at that inside 90 degree angle. Working the handle simply spread that crack until it reached that pivot hole.

The design isn't horrible and the OP may simply have run into a bad part that was going to fail no matter what. If a replacement is made, I would suggest adding a little material to the inside portion of that angle, making that section a curve instead of a sharp 90 degree angle and using a mild steel.

[Dusty Bannister]

When sizing PC bullets with the in/out style sizers, the bullet is dead stopped at one point in the process. If the bullet is not lubed, you have to overcome the start resistance as you eject the bullet. you would not be likely to lube a PC bullet if you are applying a gas check so perhaps your check is catching on one of the lube hole edges and that requires more force.

If you have to use more than two fingers to operate the sizer, something is not right. That is why the push through dies are so popular and easy to use. There is no start stop motion, just one easy smooth pass through the die, and yes some will apply something on the bullets to make the job easier.

[ubetcha]

I broke the handle linkage on my Lyman 450 a few years ago. I brazed it up while waiting for new linkage. Still using the brazed part yet. New part sitting in tool box.

[upnorthwis]

I broke one several years ago. Was sizing water dropped .410 diameter, 420 gr. SAECO for the Browning 1885. Made a replacement out of a steel rod. It's been there ever since (although I no longer water drop any boolits.).

[Moleman-]

If you're going to make a new one, I'd follow what Petrol suggested and leave as much metal on the inside rounded off corner as possible. Making a new shifter fork for a Clausing lathe right now because they went with a fancy slot with a V cut in the bottom instead of just using a radius cutter on the iron casting. The most concentrated spot for stress was the top of the V and that's where it cracked. It's getting replaced with a mild steel copy only with an oilite bushing in it to pivot on and the slot cut with a radius at the bottom to prevent it from cracking again.

[gwpercle]

I have been using the same 450 since 1973 , I only shoot cast and competed in NRA Bullseye Match for 20 years , shooting twice a week with my cast , lubed and sized boolits . I've never had any part break . If you have broken it three then you are using way too much force . Probably size hardened boolits ? Lighten up on the ham handed force...treat them gentle...If it doesn't go in / come out ...STOP ... Trying to use brute strength will only break parts .
Heat treat and harden boolits AFTER sizing . Be gently , use a delicate touch .

You may not be alone...my Brother in Law can break a anvil and hammers ...don't lend him anything if you want it back in one piece .
Gary