Other than the lead residue is there a problem with using the brass anvils from fired primers as a substitute for the stainless steel pins when wet tumbling brass?
Other than the lead residue is there a problem with using the brass anvils from fired primers as a substitute for the stainless steel pins when wet tumbling brass?
Decreed by our Creator: The man who has been made able to believe and understand that Jesus Christ has been sent into this world by the Father has been born of the Spirit of God. This man shall never experience spiritual death. He will live forever!
Can't see why they wouldn't work.
Ya might want to rise them in some sort of solvent first due to the lead dust.
When I deprime & size I drop the cases and let the pushed out primers fall into a 5 gallon bucket.
I give them a quick rinse with lacquer thinner, let them dry and toss it all into the dry tumbler.
The spent primers just act like another bit of media as everything bumps around with the polish.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
They will rust. Other than that should work... Also the anvil legs may have a tendency to stick in the flash holes?
Rust ? The primers I've seen are brass.
Shotgun primers can be steel I think. Took a big bucket of them the to scrap yard thinking they were brass but stuck to magnet there.
The anvils in steel cased ammo like Wolf are steel and the cup's are brass.
my concern would be scratches, the pins are smooth, the anvils have edges.
if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead
I've been using them for quite a while and have had no bad issues with them.
Interesting. I've saved every single one of those spent primers. Now I know why.
I sure find it handy to be able to use a magnet to pick up the stainless pins from the floor or bottom of a bucket.
Shotshells have a "regular" primer in a battery cup. The battery cup is steel. As an experiment I have replaced the spent primers in a shotshell battery cups (large pistol) and it works fine. I have run magnets through a container of spent primers and never attracted an anvil. Stainless steel pins are harder than brass and I don't know if the ends are rounded, but I doubt is "scratching" is a worry. I've played with stainless steel hardware (small nuts, screws and cotter pins) and steel BBs in wet tumbling. The assorted screws, nuts, etc, made the case OD look like new, very clean/polished, but did not enter the case ID or primer pockets (but who wants pristine primer pockets?). The BBs gave me the same results but soon rusted. I can see no problems using primer anvils, or whole spent primers as a tumbling media either wet or dry. I often use a mix of hard resin tumbling media and corn cob blast media and I may try substituting the resin with spent primers just to see how it works.....
Last edited by mdi; 11-26-2019 at 12:19 PM.
My Anchor is holding fast!
Primer anvils come in various shapes and just looking at them, they look like they'd attach to each other and form clumps of anvils...that'd be bad with bottleneck cases. And anvils are kind of large as far as cartridge case media is concerned.
I wouldn't invest the time to harvest the anvils for media.
That's mt 2˘
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
My primers go in a coffee can of used up brass (mouth flattened) that eventually goes to the scrap yard. Shotgun primers are considered steel scrap. but regular primers go through with the brass and provide a lot more weight in a coffee can full.
Stainless steel media can be pulled out or picked up with a magnet. The steel media doesn't wear out and if one doesn't lose much when washing and draining the brass then the ss media becomes almost a one time purchase at a pretty modest cost.
Primer dust is probably the easiest way for casters to end up with elevated lead levels. We don't lick our fingers when handling lead, our temps don't vaporize it, but we do breath when firing and when depriming and cleaning brass allowing for ingestion and absorption of the lead compounds from the fired primer.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
I expect that they would work but that they would cause problems. I'm pretty happy with the stainless pins but am considering the stainless chips. I like the fact that a magnet will pick them up.
Last edited by lightman; 11-28-2019 at 11:37 AM.
Just a sug. I recently found what the seller calls stainless chips. They are about 1/3 or less than the size of pins. All are assorted shapes.
I got a 5 lb. bag to add to my pin supply. I added about 1.5 lbs to what i already use to clean the brass. An i am very happy with the results.
Besides the better cleaning. I seem to be getting less pins trapped in the primer holes. Just my 2 cents. Kevin
My experience with stainless steel is that it is non-ferrous. If those pins are true stainless steel, how are you guys picking them up with a magnet?
They got some ferrous in em for sure.
FYI,
The most common SS is austenitic (think 300 series or equivalent). These are frequently softer types unless strain hardened. Most austenitic SS is non-magnetic and pretty much all other types are magnetic.
There are several other types of SS with ferritic, martensitic and Precipitation Hardening being common for "high end" applications.
Last edited by P Flados; 11-28-2019 at 12:17 PM.
I've read of using 22LR cases as wet tumbling media in high volume cement mixer type tumbling.
I haven't tried it...yet.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |