Got this, in a box of stuff, from a friend.
I remember seeing it, but never got any.
Smoking works fine for me.
Good or not so good????
What is in it????
Attachment 251706
Got this, in a box of stuff, from a friend.
I remember seeing it, but never got any.
Smoking works fine for me.
Good or not so good????
What is in it????
Attachment 251706
I don't use it in the cavities. I use it as a sealant when I store my moulds. It seems to do a good job as an oxygen barrier.
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Its dry graphite in a spray can.
I used it a couple times, that was long enough to not want to do that again.
It clogs the air vent lines in a mold very very well.
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Please don't use it.
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It mucks up a mould and is the devil to clean off .
I have found a couple good use for it...I spray my Lyman Casting Ladle's with a nice even coat ...
inside and out ... lead no longer sticks to the ladle or spout .
Spray the insides of your cleaned melting pot , keeps crud from sticking to sides .
I bought a can years ago and hate to throw stuff away so I find other uses .
Gary
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garbage
I have messed up a mold or 2 with that stuff. The only thing I use it for now is to coat the pins of a stubborn HP mold.
I've seen moulds that were basically ruined by this stuff. I bought a mould on Ebay years ago that was coated with Drop Out. I never could get it cleaned. I soaked it with every nasty chemical I could lay my hands on. Don't use it!
Chuck
It's good for a few things ... See Post #6 ... just not boolit moulds !
And to those you can use it on the inside of smelting pot and ingot moulds like muffin and mini-muffin pans . Using it to coat a casting ladle is where it really shines .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
I agree with all of the above DO not use for casting bullets. The graphite is a very course grind and is like gravel in the cavities. Will change as cast diameter. I did not get through one can and found it was better as a lube for things unrelated to casting. Who ever said "garbage" is right on.
Chill Wills
I bought a little used SC HP mould once, seller said 'good mould'. When I received it, I cleaned it with some brake cleaner and went to casting...what I couldn't see in the cavities was the layering buildup of that mould release from over the years past.
The casts would fall out alright but this is what the very first ones looked like...I had never seen mould release used before, I certainly don't use it, don't even use smoke.
The down side to this crap is that it will take quite an effort to get it all out of the cavities.
I could see that the mould needed more heat for proper fill out but there was no reason to proceed any further after seeing this.
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I used it a few times in the past, makes a good lube. I brushed it in a 2 cavity mold that cast fat trying to get the diameter down just a hair, worked fine. It cleaned out easily with a tooth brush and Eds Red.
I like it a lot for iron molds that tend to be cantankerous.
BUT...,
It works best if sprayed on a q-tip and the offending cavity is swabbed. A little goes a long way. If the cotton tip gets too wet, give it a shake before swabbing.
Not for use in aluminium or brass.
Used in this manner, I've not ever observed a measurable change in diameter.
It ain't rocket science, it's boolit science.
I’ve used a can or two in the past. For me, it seems at its best on aluminum moulds, retarding the heat transfer slightly so the cavities can fill up before any molten metal starts to cool and harden. It also eliminates any galling on top from the sprue plate.
I use any coating of anything as a last resort on an extremely cranky iron mould; it interferes with the yellow, violet or blue oxidation that forms with use in the cavity. Most of the time, this “seasoning” results in good boolits, with no external application of coating needed. Typically, if anything is needed here, it’s a touch of Bull Plate Lube, to retard lead smears on the top and the sprue plate, and keep the alloy from flowing into the vent grooves and sticking, chipping the boolits at the parting line. Not in the cavity, though.
Of course, a certain application technique needs to be developed. It’s not like painting a car fender at Earl Scheib’s. Holding the can a certain distance away is necessary; shake well and continuously; a very thin, even coating is enough. When some of it starts wearing off and more is needed, I wipe the rest of it away with a soft cloth and acetone before spraying the new layer on again.
But I use candles for fluxing, so typically have one lit around the casting pot anyway, and it’s more convenient to smoke any troublesome mould with candle soot while it’s hot than cool it off and spray it. It works just as well, too. But I guess everybody’s mileage varies, and past performance doesn’t guarantee future results, and lead pots contain lead, and lead is an addictive chemical; etc, etc, etc.
Good info Bent ramrod. Rapine - out of business now, made a micro-fine mold prep graphite product that is not spray-on. It was fine graphite in some kind of volatile carrier. Applied with a Q-tip, is great for lubing a galling sprue plate and can help a grumpy mold cast good bullets. It does not change the size of the casting.
All that is moot unless you have access to old stock.
Chill Wills
I follow Mihec's website methods for prepping molds. So far so good! I make sure I clean my molds with alcohol after use.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |