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Thread: Depriming tool

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    Ed in North Texas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    My FA is all metal except for the plastic bushings, the rubber o-ring, the clear plastic cup, and the paint. Maybe it has changed.
    Mine too, though I only use it at the range with BPCR. All others get deprimed on a press dedicated to depriming.
    Ed

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  2. #42
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    Ideal and FA Decappers

    Four tried and true decappers. They work, from 100+ years ago.

    Ideal Lightening
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    Ideal No 2
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    FA hand decapper, the real FA, not the one from Missouri
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    FA as furnished with the Armory set
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  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    I use one of my old Lee Pro 1000 presses with the case tubes . Fast an really easy on your hands.

  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    FWIW there's an Ideal tong tool set for sale on Gunbroker. Steel handles, with an almost complete set of .30-06 dies. Install a universal decapping stem in the sizer die and you'd be in business.

    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/846285394
    Cognitive Dissident

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quite a while ago I foolishly decided to start reloading 9mm by collecting a half a 5-gal bucket of once-fired brass from our club range. (Secret was to get there right after our city PD finished a range day. They never pick up their brass.)

    Decapping got very tedious, so I made this field expedient case kicker for my RCBS Junior from an old hacksaw blade. THEN it went fast! Box on the left to catch the cases, bucket directly below to catch spent primers, (most of them anyway). I've since used it for a big batch of 5.56 range brass. For my normal batches of < 100 cases I use my tong tool as previously posted.

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    Cognitive Dissident

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    Somebody Please school me on this.

    Other then Black Powder Cartridge at the range before you drop the fired/decapped cases in the big plastic Mayo jar full of soapy water.

    Why do you decap only ?

    To me if you're going to decap on a press using a die/shell holder set-up, why not just use the Size/decap die ? It just seems a waste of time to decap on the press and then come back to the press to resize the case. Why repeat the process over again ?

    I dump all my fired brass into a tumbler with corncob media as soon as I get home from the range. Then do case inspection when it comes out of the media.

    So What Is the deal ?
    I don't like the dirty garbage that comes off the brass while depriming to be in my sizing dies. I have one press that does nothing but depriming.

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    The FA deprimer is easier on the hand if you wrap its' handle with a Tennis Racket grip wrap or the like.

    Looking at the Harvey unit, I am not sure where the primers and gunk bits go, on the FA one I have the hose attachment so it captures those unless you put the hose upside down (a bad idea)

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    On the Harvey, the spent primers and debris go out the top of the unit.
    I put a piece of tape partially over the top to keep the newly dislodged primer from flying across the room.
    I deprime over a cool-whip bowl to catch the primer and debris.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by edp2k View Post
    On the Harvey, the spent primers and debris go out the top of the unit.
    I put a piece of tape partially over the top to keep the newly dislodged primer from flying across the room.
    I deprime over a cool-whip bowl to catch the primer and debris.
    I deprime in a small box to do the same.

  10. #50
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Aaah, TYVM for the info

  11. #51
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    The only "dirty garbage" that comes out of the bottom of the primer pocket is a few specks of carbon. Easily brushed away.
    Done it this way for almost 50yrs.

    How you can get crud up inside a sizing die when sizing a clean dry case is beyond me.

    I've been using the same .30-06, .270, .38Spl and .45ACP for that same time period. No signs of crud or scratches in my dies.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

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  12. #52
    Boolit Master
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    To me the issue would be the residue getting between the press ram and the press’s ram bore as well as primers in which the anvil separates and ends up in the same area because it got into the repriming arm slot cut into the ram and then gets situated between ram and bore.

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 12-01-2019 at 03:18 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy
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    Another vote for the Hervey deprimer.
    I have one and while it isn't my main de-priming method i do find it handy in some circumstances and use it often.

  14. #54
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Three44s View Post
    To me the issue would be the residue getting between the press ram and the press’s ram bore as well as primers in which the anvil separates and ends up in the same area because it got into the repriming arm slot cut into the ram and then gets restated between ram and bore.

    Three44s
    That's my concern, too. And it isn't just a bit of carbon or a loose anvil. The residue from a fired primer contains ground glass, which is nothing if not abrasive.

    At the same time that I invented that "case kicker" I also squeezed a bit of 5/16" thin-wall brass tubing into the primer arm slot of that RCBS Junior. Primer bits fall through it to be ejected lower down, guiding them into the collector box better than just letting them fall free. It also seems to keep the ram O.D. a little cleaner as well.
    Cognitive Dissident

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    uscra112,

    As usual, good ideas, thank you for the tip!

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    I too rely on a Frankford Arsenal decapper. The real Frankford Arsenal that is.


  17. #57
    Boolit Bub smilin jack's Avatar
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    Another vote for the Harvey deprimer tool. Have been using it several years and like it. The dead primers mostly fall in the empty shoe box that sits in my lap, keeping them off the floor. Can sit watching TV while depriming GI 5.56 brass. Deprimed many coffee cans of this range pickup brass that local LEO left on the ground. Love it.

    https://harveydeprimer.com/
    smilin jack

  18. #58
    Boolit Man
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    Harvey deprimer all the way!! I snap it shut over a bucket and then empty the brass in a second bucket, I actually did so much 9mm brass with it, the end of it wore to the point that it would not do 9mm anymore, he sent me a new one!

  19. #59
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    Kevin Rohrer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWolf View Post
    I use the Harvey deprimer and like it a lot. Good luck
    I have one for 50-70. It works well.
    Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, ARTCA, American Legion, & the South Cuyahoga Gun Club.

    Caveat Emptor: Do not trust Cavery Grips/American Gripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He will rip you off.

  20. #60
    Boolit Bub smilin jack's Avatar
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    I also have a Harvey Deprimer Tool. Have used it on GI 5.56 brass with nice results, having done about a dozen coffee cans of brass.

    https://harveydeprimer.com/
    smilin jack

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check