Order of Mauser rifle project?

[hc18flyer]

I have an 96 action, new sporter stock, and barrel. Is there any reason I can't hand tighten the barrel in the action for inletting and bedding? I could be working finishing the stock, while the metal if off getting blued? I also am thinking about a bead blast finish for a hunting rifle, rather than a wall hanger.
Thoughts? Thanks,

[Valornor]

I wouldn’t think so. That is exactly how I would got about doing it.


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[Texas by God]

That sounds like a good plan. Bead blast blue will look good. It should be finish headspaced before bluing unless the outfit doing the bluing is fitting the barrel as well. What caliber? The 96 is suitable for many.

[hc18flyer]

8 x 57 Douglas XX sporter profile barrel. Been sitting for too long. hc18flyer

[Der Gebirgsjager]

It is always better to do the wood first. If you did the reblue job first you'd likely damage it's finish while doing the inletting.

I like the 8x57mm cartridge, but it's traditionally used with a '98 action.

[LAGS]

You can hand tighten the barrel for Rough inletting ONLY , that is IF you intend on glass bedding the entire barrel channel once the action is headspaced and tightened.
But Bluing is Always done After The stock is bedded so you don't mess up your new Bluing job.
But if you are bedding a barreled action that is blued , and you have no intent to reblue the metal , you have to be Super Careful not to scratch up your bluing.
There are orders in which things Should Be Done.
Otherwise your rifle will Assemble ok, but will not be a perfect fit.
And if you are going to the time and expense of a new stock and barrel , perfection is what you strive for.
I always assemble the barrel to the action , set the Headspace , then do the inletting and bedding and glass bedding if so desired.
The barreled action in Then blued while I do the finish on the stock.
But I do all my own work in house.
Others don't always have that option like setting the Headspace of bluing the metal..
Note.
Most 8x57 barrels are Large Ring Shanks.
The 96 is a Small ring Shank.
I have made a 8x57 on a Small ring action before but used a small shank barrel off a 98 Turkish Mauser.
Then turned down the shank on a 25-06 large shank barrel and threaded it to fit the 98 small shank Large Ring action.
I still have that rifle , and a friend still shoots the 8x57 Small ring rifle

[justashooter]

8-57 is ideal for a small ring action, and bead blast blue is nice, but semi-gloss black is much easier. duplicolor #1634 500* engine enamel rattle can paint air dried after a tack coat and and a cover coat shot from 12", then baked in oven at 200* till it stops stinking is hard as glass after an air cool and is a nice semi-gloss just like black british stoving paint as was used on various british battle rifles. of course, no springs in the rifle while baking. springs usually unaffected below 400*, but don't bake them anyway. used this method on many rifles and it is solvent proof and low glare, and very nice looking for a low tech application.

[LAGS]

"Rattle Can " finishing is a good home option that I too have used many times.
Cuts the bluing cost by others doing it , way down.
But.
Paint or other sprayed on finishes will add thickness to metal parts.
If a stock is bedded too snug to the bare metal , it will be tight or may not fit once the metal is painted..
Bluing does not add any thickness to the metal.
Bead blasting the metal to roughen up the surface is also a good idea if you are going to use a sprayed finish , but not mandatory

[Texas by God]

8 x 57 Douglas XX sporter profile barrel. Been sitting for too long. hc18flyer

Is it already small ring threads- or will you have to re-thread it? Here's your chance to shorten the chamber and make the first "8mm Creedmoor"

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[CA Dude]

I make my 8mm IHMSA cases using Creedmoor brass. I really like the IHMSA cases. I built my 8mm on a small ring 93 action using a Swedish 8mm machinegun barrel I got off SARCO cheap. Dies are available from CH Dies.