Ratchet burr , new S&W500.

[Petander]

I've been handling older S&W:s lately,all butter smooth.

Got me thinking: This 2018 500 has been fired 1k rounds,mostly S/A,it's still as rough as new.

One position is noticeably harder to cock than the others. That's when the lion's head stamp is at one o'clock. It's irritating,I always start shooting with the rough position so my brain won't be waiting for it.

Now when you think how and where the hand is doing its job,could it be the burr in the next tooth that's making resistance?



Cocking here takes three times the normal force:

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Thank you for looking.

[Petrol & Powder]

The hand acts on the opposite portion of the ratchet, so I doubt it is the hand that's hanging up on that blur but, that burr could be catching on something else. I would look for signs on the recoil plate (particularly around the "window" the hand passes through).
I would also suggest you disassemble the cylinder from the frame and check that the cylinder spins freely on the yoke without binding at a particular location. And the last place I would look is the notches in the cylinder that locate the bolt (cylinder stop). A damaged notch that "traps" the cylinder bolt as it is retracting from the cylinder would cause that same condition at a specific chamber each time.

[JimB..]

I don’t know, but is the extractor sitting flush? It seems low at 11 and 2, otherwise slightly proud.

[Petander]

Thank you P&P,checking...

I don’t know, but is the extractor sitting flush? It seems low at 11 and 2, otherwise slightly proud.

It looks worse in the photo. But it is very slightly proud,only flush at the stamp.

Nothing here:

[JMtoolman]

Look under the extractor for a burr or grain of powder or crud. It can cause the dragging like you describe. The toolman.

[45 Dragoon]

A pic of the hand extended may shed some light. It wouldn't hurt to break that edge (arrow) on all the teeth.

Mike

[Petrol & Powder]

Look under the extractor for a burr or grain of powder or crud. It can cause the dragging like you describe. The toolman.

/\ YES, and sometimes that debris is suck to the bottom of the ratchet and difficult to discover.

[Petander]

Look under the extractor for a burr or grain of powder or crud. It can cause the dragging like you describe. The toolman.

Very true,it is clean though.

A pic of the hand extended may shed some light. It wouldn't hurt to break that edge (arrow) on all the teeth.

Mike

I touched all the burrs with 800,went shooting,cleaned and now I say it's better. Especially when oiled excessively. The drag is right in the beginning when things start to move.

[Petander]

One more.

[Petrol & Powder]

Again, look at all of the notches on the cylinder where the cylinder bolt engages the side of the cylinder. If one is peened, it will "trap" the cylinder bolt just as the bolt starts to pull out of the notch at the beginning of the cocking cycle.

[Petander]

My oil diagnostics confirmed that, P&P.

Cocking became very even after I oiled all these notches and the stop piece in the frame. Heavily.

This is the (possibly) offending notch:

.

Might just need some fast DA shooting.

Now I'm back to a degreased gun that feels better all the time,I've been working the action for hours while doing this. I'll dry fire it a bit,unlubed. Easy on the oil anyway.

[Petander]

Done,thanks a lot everyone!

Such a small peening/burr,hardly could feel it with a fingernail. It was so small I didn't worry about peening it back, just gave it a little 800.



It's amazing what we can do with 100$ smartphones these days.

[Petrol & Powder]

Awesome !

[LAGS]

To solve issues like this , I usually coat all the suspected areas with Dyechem and look for Mark's where rubbing is excessive or out of the norm.
Alcohol takes the Dyechem off with no problem

[Petander]

Ratchet.

[Petander]

I edited the title,gun is very good now.

Thanks everyone!