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Thread: Marvelux?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy muskeg13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Houston, Alaska
    Posts
    405
    I've been using Marvelux from the same large container I bought over 25 years ago and have enough to last me for life. Since I cast indoors, and mostly in the cold months in Alaska, I appreciate the lack of smoke. I've seen no difference in the fluxing qualities between Marvelux, sawdust, rosin, bullet lube or beeswax. I think Marvelux does the job quicker, and it doesn't take much, maybe 1/2 teaspoon or less for a 20# pot. I can quickly get down to casting and not set off the smoke alarm or my wife. As mentioned, you do need to be careful when introducing a cold fluxing spoon or ladle into your pot to avoid lead splatter. I brush mine off as best I can with a wire brush before slowly laying them on top of the molten lead for a few seconds to heat.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3,158
    It's been decades since I used, hated, and threw away a can of Marvelux. My poor results were likely the result of me using it wrong, seeing as how some people actually seem to get good results and actually like it.

    I have heard from more people who had the same results as myself, though, leading me to believe that a major problem with Marvelux is in the instructions. If a high percentage of the people who buy your product have terrible results and hate it, then you're surely doing something wrong in regards to instructions. It's probably been 25 years ago for me, but I do remember trying to follow the instructions carefully, but finally just got tired of the moisture it attracted and all the spattering and rust.

    I remember the instructions saying that regular use would prevent rust, but all I know is that I never had a rust problem before using it. Maybe the Marvelux doesn't rust, but the moisture it attracts sure seemed to cause rust. You couldn't pay me to try the stuff again, and I sure wouldn't waste good money on postage to ship it to someone else. I'm sure there must be a secret of some kind to making it work effectively and not cause spattering and rust, but if there is, the manufacturer does a poor job of communicating it.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    768
    My only visit from the Tinsel Fairy was caused by Marvelux's tendency to attract moisture. After I cleaned up the mess I put the can on the shelf and left it there until it ate it's way thru the metal.
    Chuck

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South of the north pole in the land of the falling waters
    Posts
    4,070
    I used the last of it over twenty years ago and won't be replacing the stash . While it may clean the lead it does attract moisture , that is excitement I can do without .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    1,607
    I used to use it, back in the 80s/90s. I too found it crudded things up, and led to spattering. I've moved on to better things for casting boolits, but for the dirty, raw smelting I do still use it, mainly because I bought the BIG jar years ago. When that jar is finished (if ever, it's REALLY big and might outlast me), I won't buy more.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check