Mold release agent.

[Muddydogs]

This is what I asked: "but want to know if there is something that is currently state-of-the-art that is better. So, what works better (if anything), and where can I get it?"

Where in that did I say I had a problem with a matter of technique? Yes, I post snide remarks when people post answers to questions I have not asked. In short, if you have not used a release agent in a Lee six-cavity mold, you have no basis for answering my question. Aside from that, If "There is no need for a release agent in a Lee 6 cavity mold, its a solution to another issue." were 100% true for all casters, there would not be so many posts about release agents working so well as well as Lee recommending one also (smoking a mold is using a "release agent").

Well that just it, it is a problem with your technique. Release agent or smoking a mold is a temporary easy fix to an issue that mite take some time and trial and error to fix, most everyone is looking for the quick and easy instead of the right way which ends up being easier in the end.

Ya when I first started out I smoked a mold or two and tried a release agent or two but the fine folks on this forum showed me the error of my ways. A couple of my molds just required a good cleaning to get them to drop bullets and a couple molds required quite a bit of work to get the bullets to come out well. In the end I can pick up anyone of my molds, consult my casting notes for the mold, lube the spur plate and pivot points and drop perfect bullets from the first cast. Good thing about what I learned is I can pick up any mold, start casting and within a drop or two have a good idea what the mold needs to take care of any issue that might show up which makes getting a new mold up to speed even quicker. One thing I don't miss is having to deal with mold release when I'm working on a 1000 bullet casting session.

[dahermit]

A couple of my molds just required a good cleaning to get them to drop bullets and a couple molds required quite a bit of work to get the bullets to come out well.

Define, please "...a good cleaning...". Note that Lee's instructions say to just "Use any volatile solvent to clean the cavitres...". Is your technique better than theirs? What exactly was involved in getting "...the bullets to come out well."? Be specific please.

[dahermit]

Liquid Wrench L504 Dry Lubricant - 4 oz. 1- $5.99, 2-$8-99 Ebay

I don't use release agents, I occasionally lightly smoke a stubborn mold.

I read in an old thread where they cast a hot glue boolit and insert a shaft in it then cut slices in the boolit coat with fine polishing compound. spin in the cavity for a few seconds to polish for easy release. -- haven't had the need to try this yet.

A sticky mold can sometimes be cured by rubbing the edge of the cavity with a carpenter pencil (the wood part) to remove and possible burs.

I don't have any "stubborn molds". However, Lee's instructions state that "It may require a few taps on the handle bolt to free the bullets." I am a high volume caster...often using two, six-cavity molds at the same time (one cooling, one filling). I don't have time to tap on the handle bolt...I want the bullets to spill from the mold as soon as the handles open it and the ONLY way I have found to get that to happen is with release agents.

[Maven]

All, If you can't find the Liquid Wrench dry lube, look for the 3-in-1 version (available in big box hardware stores) or the Finish Line w/teflon product available in bike stores and Dick's Sports as well as other retailers.

[3006guns]

Okay, I bought into the Liquid Wrench suggestion for a single cavity .45 Lyman I have. Dang boolits were ALWAYS sticking in the same side, requiring some energetic tapping to get it to fall.

I cleaned the mold carefully TWICE. Heated it slightly and applied just a wee bit of the L.W., then began casting. The boolit STILL stuck in the same cavity, although the amount (and force) of tapping was greatly reduced. This particular mold is probably going to need the good old oil/BonAmi lapping, followed by some cleaning. After that I'll try it again, both ways.

I think the Liquid Wrench DOES work, but it requires a mold that you KNOW is close to perfect. It's not a cure all, but does have its place on the casting bench.

[retread]

I found a clean cavity works best. Haven't had to smoke a mould cavity or use a release agent since I learned to properly clean the mould years ago.

I had to find out the hard way too. Larry is spot on in my opinion. I keep my molds clean and have no problems. If one acts up I know it is in need of a thorough cleaning.

[dahermit]

Okay, I bought into the Liquid Wrench suggestion for a single cavity .45 Lyman I have. Dang boolits were ALWAYS sticking in the same side, requiring some energetic tapping to get it to fall.

I cleaned the mold carefully TWICE. Heated it slightly and applied just a wee bit of the L.W., then began casting. The boolit STILL stuck in the same cavity, although the amount (and force) of tapping was greatly reduced. This particular mold is probably going to need the good old oil/BonAmi lapping, followed by some cleaning. After that I'll try it again, both ways.

I think the Liquid Wrench DOES work, but it requires a mold that you KNOW is close to perfect. It's not a cure all, but does have its place on the casting bench.

I have never had any problem with bullets dropping out of a Lyman iron mold...or any iron mold. My post started with "Re: Lee 6-cavity Aluminum molds."

[dahermit]

I had to find out the hard way too. Larry is spot on in my opinion. I keep my molds clean and have no problems. If one acts up I know it is in need of a thorough cleaning.

Good for you. Did you read post #43?

[toallmy]

I generally enjoy working on a project mold to get it casting good for me , but I did order a little bottle of liquid wrench dry lube yesterday to try out .
For aluminum molds I have good luck with a little polishing of the cavities / then playing with the casting temp to get the boolits to drop nicely . Strangely enough that seams to work on Saeco , RCBS , and Lyman molds also .

[longbow]

+another for clean cavity. Lead does not stick to aluminum. If boolits are sticking in cavities there are burrs or the cavities are not centered. Leementing (see sticky) should solve any sticking problems.

But whatever floats your boat if you want to use mould releases... just try the Leementing if you are still having issues with sticking. Also, do use a sprue plate lube for aluminum moulds especially or you may get galling of the aluminum under the sprue plate.

I have been casting since the late 60's so maybe not as long as you but clean cavity and light lapping (Leementing) work for me.

Longbow

[dahermit]

+another for clean cavity. Lead does not stick to aluminum. If boolits are sticking in cavities there are burrs or the cavities are not centered. Leementing (see sticky) should solve any sticking problems.

But whatever floats your boat if you want to use mould releases... just try the Leementing if you are still having issues with sticking. Also, do use a sprue plate lube for aluminum moulds especially or you may get galling of the aluminum under the sprue plate.

I have been casting since the late 60's so maybe not as long as you but clean cavity and light lapping (Leementing) work for me.

Longbow

Did you read post #1? Did I say I wanted advice on how to stop sticking bullets? Did you read post #43? Did you notice that I did not ask about how to stop bullets from sticking? Do you understand my frustration with posters who insist on giving advice I have not asked for?

[longbow]

I certainly did read post #1 and post #43.

To answer post #1: Yes, you did ask how to stop sticking boolits. That is the purpose of your post is it not, to find out how to get boolits to drop out of the mould? "State of the art" is a clean cavity... for me and many others anyway.

To answer post #43: The only way you have found to get boolits to drop out of cavities is using mould release but a burr free mould should allow boolits to drop out easily. That is burr free and clean.

As with you, I have decades of casting experience and was trying to help. I will do you and me both a favour in future and not bother reading your posts.

Have nice evening.

Longbow

[dahermit]

Thank you.

[dahermit]

Post # 6

Firm believer in Liquid Wrench Dry lube. A single q-tip dampened will do a lee 6 cavity mold. I do cavity's vent lines, top of blocks, bottom and top of sprue plate and the sprue holes.

By the time the mold is warm all has evaporated off, there is no migration. It lasts a LONG time. But if after 500 or more bullets I start getting a sticky cavity the next time I will redo that mold.

The real convincer for me was my lee 7/8th oz slug mold, drive key. That base did not want to release. So rather than beat it to death I treat it every time I'm going to use it. After 3 or 4 treatments slugs fall off on their own after the first couple pours.

Seems crazy but it works.

One small 4 oz bottle is a lifetime supply for most users.



16$ at Amazon, spray is 3x as big and cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench.../dp/B0086ADMME

I ordered some Liquid Wrench (L504), and it came in the mail yesterday. I cleaned one of my Lee six-bangers with alcohol and applied it with a cotton swab (Qtip). This A.M., I cast some bullets with the mold it worked as you stated. Really, really good stuff! Just what I was looking for. Thank you very much GhostHawk.

[onelight]

+another for clean cavity. Lead does not stick to aluminum. If boolits are sticking in cavities there are burrs or the cavities are not centered. Leementing (see sticky) should solve any sticking problems.

But whatever floats your boat if you want to use mould releases... just try the Leementing if you are still having issues with sticking. Also, do use a sprue plate lube for aluminum moulds especially or you may get galling of the aluminum under the sprue plate.

I have been casting since the late 60's so maybe not as long as you but clean cavity and light lapping (Leementing) work for me.

Longbow

Thank you I found this very helpful.

[Hossfly]

I tried the liquid wrench dry lube in the Lee 6 cavity that 2 were sticking, didn’t work at all. Got some valve polishing compound from O’Riely’s auto parts. Used the nut on top of empty cavity and poured thru the nut, all six thinking maybe I’ll get a couple to use. Didn’t get any at first, some nuts too small, I ended up using 1/2’’ OD hex nuts and heating the entire mould to 400’ then got a few to try. Went well once I figured out how fast to spin the thing, did all 6 cavities while at it. Scrubbed out real clean with carb spray and went to pouring boolits. First couple drops were wrinkled then perfect mould up to temp and a little shake all 6 just jump out as soon as it is opened. It was hard to stop in the sweet spot, as Fortune Cookie says, dropped about a full 20# pot of 160 gr. At .360 od. Now will pc those and load some Lawn steel rounds,38 spl with 3 gr Bullseye.=820 fps very accurate to 50-75 yds.

[samari46]

I'm old school just use a kitchen match to smoke the cavities. Even with mold release products you can get too much in the cavity and that can change the diameter of your cast bullet. If forced to use a mold release agent I would use a q-tip to apply it evenly in the cavity. Frank