That would be true. Purists prefer cut plug, but I am told that Red Man is also OK.Originally Posted by gon2shoot
|
   
   
|
|
That would be true. Purists prefer cut plug, but I am told that Red Man is also OK.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I disagree the formula given is a favorite at friendship.
I have used it for years in competition no problems.
Kinda like the thing about flash rust. After bluing a few thousand barrels I can tell you everyone's barrel modern or ML that has been blued has had the dreaded internet problem of flash rust.
After shooting and cleaning , then oiling and applying a rust preventative there is no problem with Hydrogen peroxide at 3% level.
The guns used in competition cast a couple thousand dollars each and I had no worry using it.
ever since the NMLRA banned "blowing down the barrel", something they had rightfully endorsed for decades as a clear safety measure, anything coming from that org is something i suspect.
H2O2 is absolutely NOT friendly to metals - it is an oxidizer and salt, when left on metal, it is corrosive and will cause rust. sure sure, it's down and out the barrel and cleaned up quick, right? no thank you, i won't gamble with my black powder guns, i'll pass.
however, there is no need for anything other than plain tap water for issues of both fouling control and cleaning of any black powder firearms, followed by patch drying and a decent lubricant to protect. yes, there can be salts in tap water, particularly if the water emanates from a water softener system. use distilled water - still lots cheaper than any of the dozens of concoctions hawked as "muzzleloader cleaners". if there is a need for something more invasive than H2O, the firearm has not been been well maintained and typically somewhere along the line fouling had not been immediately addressed.
If you shoot a damp moose milk patch on the ball EVERY shot will be going down the barrel clean and same as the previous shot - I have shot fifty + shots in competition this way with NO deterioration in accuracy and NO accumulated fouling from second shot to last - I cap the bore between events and fire a fouling shot (full charge) at the start of each string just to be sure.
This does not work for hunting where the piece may remain loaded for several hours (moisture can migrate into the powder charge) - that needs a different approach with a greasy/heavier/drier lube that will likely see you fouled out in six or seven shots - but for range shooting damp moose milk patch rules supreme.
Yes on all counts!!!!!
moose milk is one of a buncha patch concoctions that works quite well for fired shot fouling control. so does straight bear oil or sheep tallow. as does saliva spit. all of this stuff is wet. i prefer a pre-lube, something dryer that's ready to go and carried in the shooting bag or ball board, but NOT as dry as dutch's moose milk prepped patches - that stuff never worked well with how i prefer to load a patched ball. that's why i've gone to gato feo for a patch lube. but that bear oil is something else! great stuff!
Last edited by M-Tecs; 11-09-2019 at 08:33 PM.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
No bears downunder!!! plenty sheep though - what best to use - kidney fat ? or fat rendered from normal cooking? can do either.
i tried the dried out moose milk patches - no go for me - will shoot the damp moose milk till I quit in normal target matches - (dont have enough dribble in me for ten shots in a row! so spit patch is out unless I get caught short)
OK, so moose milk formula is? When I google I get recipes for some sort of dessert.
When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
there are more than a few ingredient recipes for "moose milk". water soluble oil mixed in water is the bare bones essence, in varying rations from 1:2 (oil:water) to 1:X. a 1:6 mix is fairly common, but to each their own and there are plenty of "owns".
the original dutch schoultz mm recipe for fouling control ...
1 part of Ballistol (or any water soluble oil such as NAPA)
1 Part Pinesol
2 parts 3% Hydrogen Peroxide
20 Parts water
however, patch strips are to be wetted with just an oil:water mixture and left to dry off on a level surface. the oil remains to "dry lube" the patch cloth.
Thanks.
When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.
Everyone has their favorite lube that works well for them in their barrel be it deep or shallow grooves.but for swabbling the bore between shots or every two or three shot all you need is just give your patch a lick or three with yer toungue and that's moist enough that it's not gonna stick inthe bore and you'll be able to load your next shot easily I have to do this every two shots using tracks mink oil as the patch lube it's a fairly shallow groove barrel but that's just my hunting lube for a woods walk or target time I use a spit patch and don't need to wipe the bore at all . No special formulas are needed . So you can make it as simple or fancy as you want with lubes and swabbing they all work
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
cutting oil and water 1:5 works at my place
My experience with household variety H2O2 (2% - 3%) mirrors Geezer's. As he said, just make sure you dry the bore and use a good [rust] preventer/preservative afterward. (I live in the often humid Hudson Valley and have 0 problems with bore rusting following its use.)
The bigger question is what useful purpose does it actually serve? Sure you can pour it in there and get it out again without killing your barrel - but what is actually achieved that cant be done using plain water - my short answer = nothing. (obviously some others have a different view - lets see some science to support that)
It works faster than H20 and really does a good job removing BP fouling from your hands. Btw, I mostly use it for a quick soak and cleaning at the end of a range session, but I often use warm water with a bit of dish detergent when I get home.
I do not shoot round ball enough, guess I should. But when I do, I swab between every shot. Sometimes if it is difficult to get a patch down the bore, I need to resort to dampening the patch. I have used this T/C #13 for as long as I can remember. What I like about it, is it makes the fouling stick to the patch instead of flake off and drop down to the breech plug. I used to work for walmart and knew when all these items would go on clearance. And, Yes, I swept them all into my cart on the way out.
I have been shooting in matches since 85 all I use is spit. about 60 shots in a day no fouling problems at all. if I do have to wipe just use a patch I held in my mouth for the last shot.
Bob I know it works - a few shots yeah - just aint got enough spit in me to do a match
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote