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Thread: My new MP mould has arrived

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Ohio Rusty's Avatar
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    My new MP mould has arrived

    I'm glad my .44 special MP mould is here. Looks really nice .. Lots of pins ..... This is my first MP mould and I have some questions about putting it together. I figured out the long thin pins that are threaded on the end screw into the different hollow point pins and those go through the mould body. There are little C shaped lock springs that were included. I assume those go onto the ends of the pins that go through the body. So ... Which mould half should you put the pins through ?? The mould half without the sprue cutter or the mould half with the sprue cutter ??
    Ohio Rusty ><>
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  2. #2
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    Smoke4320's Avatar
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    Pins in opposite block from sprue plate.
    You would knock sprue plate open tilt mold in same direction as open sprue plate
    Open mold and let pins slide out to dump bullets
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    Pins in opposite block from sprue plate.
    You would knock sprue plate open tilt mold in same direction as open sprue plate
    Open mold and let pins slide out to dump bullets
    Same thing I do.

    It also helps to season the mold by heat cycling a few times in the oven

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    When I assemble the pins, I tighten them then backoff a 1/4 turn. That gives them a little room for expansion when the heat builds up. I would also suggest that you visit mp-molds.com. There are a couple of very good tutorials on there that will help you get the most out of your new mold. Congratulations!
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteodoc08 View Post
    Same thing I do.

    It also helps to season the mold by heat cycling a few times in the oven

    You beat me to it because I just went through that with my first brass mold and never knew I needed the season it. I had soldering all over it that I had to clean off. What a PITA! I also put my HP pins in a cordless drill and polish them with mothers chrome polish before every use. I am up selling that mold to a member after three uses because it wouldn’t fit in my gun. My second brass mold that I haven’t used yet I’ve heating cycled about 12 times and it still looks like brand new compared to the one that I casted with a couple times and cycled along with it...And here I thought they just all stayed as pretty as a picture and bright brass.lol

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Cobgrats! I got an MP mold yesterday,too,a 357.

    I saved the very first HP boolits from that mold for the pic. The mold cycled three times on a hot plate. I heat cycle all new molds instead of casting rejects for a few sessions,have done it for years.

    I rarely use smoke for molds but a touch of Bic lighter for new MP pin tips has worked for me.


  7. #7
    Boolit Master cheese1566's Avatar
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    I like the pins on the sprue plate side.

    Try either it way and see what suits your method.

    Do the season/break in heat treat as above. Always be sure to close the mold gently on the pins.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Ohio Rusty's Avatar
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    I've been heating and cooling the new MP .44 special mould and pins today to burn off the oils and get it ready for casting. Using an electric hot pot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hot mold.jpg  
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I have recently discovered a product Liquid Wrench #504 that I apply with a Q tip to the cavity and hp pins. It allows the boolits to literally jump outta the mould blocks.
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Cobgrats! I got an MP mold yesterday,too,a 357.

    I saved the very first HP boolits from that mold for the pic. The mold cycled three times on a hot plate. I heat cycle all new molds instead of casting rejects for a few sessions,have done it for years.

    I rarely use smoke for molds but a touch of Bic lighter for new MP pin tips has worked for me.


    You have fins around on the hollow point area just like I do when I cast with my Lyman devastator mold. I’m glad I’m not the only one that gets finning. It always gets squished down when I run it through my sizer anyways.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    You have fins around on the hollow point area just like I do when I cast with my Lyman devastator mold. I’m glad I’m not the only one that gets finning. It always gets squished down when I run it through my sizer anyways.
    Those in the pic were the very first bullets from a new mold,by no means they represent the mold quality. After a few pours everything was good.

    I've seen much worse looking first pours...

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I heat the mold and when my lead is melted I use the
    old method of pouring in lead to season it
    I cast until no more rejects and mold is seasoned
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohio Rusty View Post
    I've been heating and cooling the new MP .44 special mould and pins today to burn off the oils and get it ready for casting. Using an electric hot pot.
    Aren't you concerned that "...burn(ing) off the oils..." will leave a residue in the mould?

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Got a new one today.I did the hot plate thing,it happens by itself.



    Before heat I used Brakekleen,then hot water w/Fairy. Bullets fall when I turn the mold upside down.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check