Pro Melt confusion (and old age)

[oldhenry]

I was having a problem getting decent boolits from a premier brand mold. I thought it to be appropriate to make sure the mold was the culprit as my Pro Melt had been dripping lately (yes, Pro Melts drip too). I've cleaned it before & really hate the job. Every time I tackle this job, I start out thinking one way & fortunately I discover that my thinking was wrong before drilling out some metal I can't replace.

Check out the photos. 1st impression (to me) always assumes that the "A" surface is the valve surface that needs lapping. It looks made to order to line up with the large opening in the photo (inside view). They even have the same angle. Furthermore: the distance from "A" to "B" is exactly the same distance as "C".

Measurements prove otherwise:
1. The diameter of the discharge hole is .106
2. The diameter of the small end of the valve is .150
3. In order for the large sealing surface on the valve to match up with the large seating surface, the valve rod would need to be longer.

I'll lap the "B" end of the valve rod with the small step type seat just below the large opening.

If I'm wrong, please correct me. I'm getting accustomed to being corrected.

Henry
__________________________________________________ _________________________________
A real sport involves either gasoline or gun power...…...all others are just games

[georgerkahn]

Knock wood, my RCBS Pro-melt leaks not... However, I have/a Lyman Mould Master which did. I measured naught, instead I simply put a blob of silver-coloured (I don't recall grit #) valve grinding compound, surplus to me from a lawn mower engine repair, in and around bottom hole; chucked the drop-piece in a 1/2" drill (I wanted slow speed, albeit Milwaukee drill is variable); and, did my best to keep 100% upright as I ran the drill for around a minute, using a rather light amount of pressure -- pretty much only the weight of the drill. I was most surprised at how both pieces polished! I removed all compound, put the lifter back together, and had not a drip since . Good luck... my method was NOT at all mechanically "sound" -- but, again, it worked.
geo

[Dale53]

I have a couple of Pro-Melts. I use a Chinese knock off of a small vise grip and simply clip it on to the operating lever. The weight of the vise grip totally ended the dripping.

FWIW
Dale53

[Walks]

I use bristle pipe cleaners to clean the spouts on my Pro-Melt and Mag-20. The cotton burns off, but the bristles work. So does polishing the "valve stem" with quad ought steel wool. I use the same steel wool forced into the spout by the stem and rotated around. What ever works. And neither pot leaks.

[gpidaho]

The best way to insure your pot doesn't leak (any brand) is to only use clean lead in your bottom pour. It doesn't take much crud to make them drip. Gp

[oldhenry]

George K..
I tried your method, but the drop piece isn't straight & it vibrated (that may be part of the problem).

Dale 53,
Good idea

Walks,
I may try that next time.

[georgerkahn]

George K..
I tried your method, but the drop piece isn't straight & it vibrated (that may be part of the problem).

Dale 53,
Good idea

Walks,
I may try that next time.

oldhenry -- That there was quite a bit of wobble is why I used the Milwaukee variable speed 1/2" drill at a very low speed. All in all it was not thaaat far from being straight, and the "L"-shaped top kept it from being chucked in like, say, a drill bit. As I wrote here above, I had the speed quite low, and do not believe I polished for much more than one minute. My thought at the time was I removed mostly some form(s) of oxidation where the two pieces met when "valve" is closed.
Again, best wishes; my Lyman had gotten more than annoying...
To echo what gdidago added, I flux and reflux in my propane-heated smelting outfit, pouring relatively "clean" stuff into alloys; these, only, go in the casting pots.
BEST!
geo