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Thread: Progressive presses

  1. #61
    Boolit Mold hotshot357's Avatar
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    I chose Dillon on the recommendation of my LGS owner. I started reloading pistol and decided to buy a SDB. Later I purchased a .30-30 rifle. Wanting to load for everything I shoot. I traded in the SDB on a 550B. I noticed my LGS still had my trade in. I thought it would be nice to have one set up for large primers and one for small. So I bought the SDB again. I am a "happy-camper" now.Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #62
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Shrapnel, mate, that is one cluttered area!
    I like it.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by drac0nic View Post

    I agree with priming on the LNL being its weakness.
    Even when/if priming works,I don't like it because you won't see when a primer tube gets empty. Then you spill powder through the hole and have to dissassemble everything. Repeat.

    Otherwise I like LNLAP, a solid system with a good case activated measure. But I size and prime separately nowadays. Watch a movie,prime 1000 cases with RCBS hand primer.

    For serious semiauto round production it would be a Dillon. But where I live,loading 9mm costs more than factory ammo,even with free bullets, so...

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Even when/if priming works,I don't like it because you won't see when a primer tube gets empty. Then you spill powder through the hole and have to dissassemble everything. Repeat.

    Otherwise I like LNLAP, a solid system with a good case activated measure. But I size and prime separately nowadays. Watch a movie,prime 1000 cases with RCBS hand primer.

    For serious semiauto round production it would be a Dillon. But where I live,loading 9mm costs more than factory ammo,even with free bullets, so...
    I put a piece of clothes hanger in my primer tube. I put it to the bottom and marked it with a sharpie. It holds the shuttle back on the last primer and has a line to tell you where you are in your tube. Works well.

    How are you getting 9mm that cheap? I can't really get 22lr for that kinda spend. I've got some 3 cent primers, free bullets (lead was given to me) and under 2.5 cents of powder. 1 or less if I use Titegroup. All ears. I mean I'm talking sub 3 bucks a box here.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by drac0nic View Post

    How are you getting 9mm that cheap?
    It's the other way round,primers and powder in Finland are expensive, making 9 mm 15 cents a pop to load, that excludes bullet price. Factory 9 mm ammo can be found cheaper or about the same.

    Only larger calibers make economical sense to load for. Or specials like subsonic.

    Back to presses,yes I have tried simular idea like your coathanger but I forget to watch and follow it. I make about 500 pistol rounds a week these days,"semi progressive" is just fine. And I like to inspect my brass anyway.

  6. #66
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    I want to make something like the Dillon's have with a micro switch and a buzzer. Just haven't yet. Maybe I will get a rod from McMaster next order.

    Aah cool hat makes sense. .15 is a pretty steep investment.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Even when/if priming works,I don't like it because you won't see when a primer tube gets empty. Then you spill powder through the hole and have to dissassemble everything. Repeat.

    Otherwise I like LNLAP, a solid system with a good case activated measure. But I size and prime separately nowadays. Watch a movie,prime 1000 cases with RCBS hand primer.

    For serious semiauto round production it would be a Dillon. But where I live,loading 9mm costs more than factory ammo,even with free bullets, so...
    I'm not understanding the "not seeing when a primer tube is empty".

    Priming happens when the lever is push forward, the only thing going on with that motion, and the primer seating can be felt via the resistance of the lever verses no resistance.
    The differing pressure applied is noticeable when no primer is present.
    Operation could be stopped at this time to add more primers/swap tubes and the un-primed case removed, a pre-sized/primed case inserted/swapped out, no spilled powder...
    the way I do it...
    My sig line is relevant here,

    Note: I use a wooden skewer as a primer follower rather than a metal wire/coat hanger, less chance to detonate.
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  8. #68
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    Yeah,most probably it's a user error but I removed the priming system after so many spills.

    There should be a 1000 primer tube station. 100 is not worth the whole setup time/effort in my opinion. Heck I make subsonic 9 mm with a Lee turret w/ four case tubes,feeling "progressive" enough.

    This thread is making me want a Dillon of my own.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    If you like, and appreciate, well made machinery then you will like Dillon.
    I considered that my Loadmaster was quite well made (excluding the plastic bits) but Dillon is on another level.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by dikman View Post
    If you like, and appreciate, well made machinery then you will like Dillon.
    I considered that my Loadmaster was quite well made (excluding the plastic bits) but Dillon is on another level.
    I totally agree my loadmaster was the most difficult of my Lee progressives to keep running smooth , Dillons are a class act.
    Last edited by onelight; 11-15-2019 at 09:39 PM.

  11. #71
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    I typed wrong about Lee "turret",which I have and have used but I meant an old Lee 1000 for my 9 mm sub loads. One can call that Lee progressive,right?

    I almost prefer that Lee to my LNLAP,I like to SEE things. With Lee I don't pre-size and pre-prime. Filling primer tray is easy,as are the brass tubes.

    But yeah,Dillon is another world.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I typed wrong about Lee "turret",which I have and have used but I meant an old Lee 1000 for my 9 mm sub loads. One can call that Lee progressive,right?

    I almost prefer that Lee to my LNLAP,I like to SEE things. With Lee I don't pre-size and pre-prime. Filling primer tray is easy,as are the brass tubes.

    But yeah,Dillon is another world.
    Yup the 1000 is a progressive I used one for about 15 years if it had four stations I would probably still have it.
    I have a buddy with a LNL and it to is a fine press .

  13. #73
    Boolit Buddy dogdoc's Avatar
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    Dillon, the only one you do not have to make excuses for. They work with the minimum of tinkering. No homemade fixes needed.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  14. #74
    Boolit Master pmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Even when/if priming works,I don't like it because you won't see when a primer tube gets empty. Then you spill powder through the hole and have to dissassemble everything. Repeat.

    Otherwise I like LNLAP, a solid system with a good case activated measure. But I size and prime separately nowadays. Watch a movie,prime 1000 cases with RCBS hand primer.

    For serious semiauto round production it would be a Dillon. But where I live,loading 9mm costs more than factory ammo,even with free bullets, so...
    MY LNL AP came with a rod that sits on top of the primers that can I watch drop as the press operates.

    I shortened that spring lifts the shell plate after priming. In my case the primer may or may not fully seat because that spring wouldn't compress enough. Shortening that spring allows the shell plate to go lower thus seating the primer more positively.

    Has anyone else tried this trick for the LNL AP?
    Oh great, another thread that makes me spend money.

  15. #75
    Boolit Mold
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    Getting my loading bench setup again. Have my old and trusted Pacific single stage. Next to it the Hornady AP with case feeder will set. I am seriously thinking about putting a Dillon XL650 next to the Hornady. Several dealers around here are selling them off for $500 since the new 750 came out.

  16. #76
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    My LNL AP munched the primer feed yesterday. The slide jammed up for some reason and the wire bent. It apepars that they've made a significant change in it and it's got some sort of spring loaded detent I presume to keep it from bending like mine did. I also asked about my shuttle placement as it seems like the shuttle doesn't go back far enough to align in a centered way with the hole even at the limit of adjustment. I filed the hole in the top plastic piece but I dunno apparently it can be finicky to set up at times. I'm going to make a piece like that one guy had on ebay to align the primer slide properly and see how that works out. A chunk of aluminum rod isn't too expensive and that's like a 15 minute lathe project.

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmer View Post
    MY LNL AP came with a rod that sits on top of the primers that can I watch drop as the press operates.

    I shortened that spring lifts the shell plate after priming. In my case the primer may or may not fully seat because that spring wouldn't compress enough. Shortening that spring allows the shell plate to go lower thus seating the primer more positively.

    Has anyone else tried this trick for the LNL AP?
    I'd have had to see it to believe it.

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by drac0nic View Post
    My LNL AP munched the primer feed yesterday. The slide jammed up for some reason and the wire bent. It apepars that they've made a significant change in it and it's got some sort of spring loaded detent I presume to keep it from bending like mine did. I also asked about my shuttle placement as it seems like the shuttle doesn't go back far enough to align in a centered way with the hole even at the limit of adjustment. I filed the hole in the top plastic piece but I dunno apparently it can be finicky to set up at times. I'm going to make a piece like that one guy had on ebay to align the primer slide properly and see how that works out. A chunk of aluminum rod isn't too expensive and that's like a 15 minute lathe project.

    You musta been after it pretty good. Even the old system was designed so the the plastic top would break long before bending a steel rod. All the factory plastic rod holders i've seen at the top have a slot for adjustment. I changed them out to the one's from ebay, or if you have a 3d printer you can download the file. I also upgraded to the spring insert for the rod as well. I can pull it out to disengage the primer slide super easy now.

  19. #79
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    The only thing about that is now you need two sets of parts and know-how to deal with two different styles of presses. Although, if you totally dedicated a Dillon to one caliber that would make things alot easier.

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogdoc View Post
    Dillon, the only one you do not have to make excuses for. They work with the minimum of tinkering. No homemade fixes needed.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Yeah that's why ebay's loaded with fixit up Dillon parts and why Dillon just changed their whole press to a different primer system.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check