Guess I'm going to be the oddball, but how about a ? Savage 99
Guess I'm going to be the oddball, but how about a ? Savage 99
The .30-30 has taken a lot of game, but there’s just something about a Marlin .45-70. Once you try it, there’s no gong back. They don’t have to kick that much. It all depends on how you load them. You can even load round balls in them for a really light recoil.
Howdy and welcome to the forum.
I am partial to the 30-30. But of the ones you listed, I'd go 45-70. A stainless guide gun if you will hunt in any inclimate weather.
Walks makes a good point. I have a number of lever actions and my son has little interest in them. When I pass, they will get sold.. Other families will face the same circumstances. I expect we will see more lever actions on used gun racks. And as inventories increase, prices will go down.
Seems like the buying public is enamored by AR's and cartridges that work on that platform, or MOA bolt actions. The 3 MOA lever actions appeal to guys like you find here....basically the dinosaurs of the gun world. Lever actions in pistol calibers got popular with CAS but look at the average age at one of their shoots.
BTW, a few years ago I picked up a slightly rusted M94 .30/30 for $135 from the widow of a trap shooter. None of her family wanted it and none of the guys at the club. It cleaned up fine and had not been shot much at all.
You have received some advice that will make you think. Let us know what you decide.
Don Verna
45-70 all the way. Many many choices of loads soft or hard hitting. 150 to 500 grn
Taylor load to game and distance and recoil
Collor button for cheap soft recoiling practice/plinking
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I do have my grandfather's Marlin 30-30, but I don't take it out that much, it's more of a keepsake that I only take hunting or out of the safe on certain occasions.
I've decided to go with the 45-70, now to decide which model. I really like the looks of the cowboy models.
Previous posters ALL have made great points vis model and calibre. However, I'd like to add another -- to me -- very important criteria. To wit, the *SIZE* of the firearm you elect versus, of course, YOUR "size". Some of us have long arms, other short, etc., etc., etc .
One of the major "tricks", which I've seen soooo many times NOT done, is the practice of hunters moving their lever-firearm for a second, or third shot while STILL being held at your shoulder. Yes -- many will lower their firearm to get another cartridge ready to fire -- and then need again raise it to their shoulder, get a decent sight picture, and then finally (hopefully) again fire.
I have several levers, with my "go-to" hunter being neither of your options -- a Marlin 336 -- and I have a Limb-Saver on its butt NOT for recoil, but rather to add enough length to the stock to enable efficient at shoulder functioning in the field.
Assuming you're planning on purchasing "face to face" -- I'd suggest loading some snap-caps in whichever firearm you choose for YOU to ascertain this -- having comfort/ability in this area added to your choice criteria. Good luck, regardless!
(Lever-lover) geo
Lots of great suggestions, here is my two cents worth.
I have 30-30, 32 special,35 Remington and and 45-70. I love my six 30-30's but I play with them more than hunt with them. All my rifles are zeroed at 100 yards. Who ever is grabbing a gun, including me goes for the 35 Rem. first and the 45-70 second, because they deliver meat every time the trigger is pulled. Most of our deer hunting is 60 to 120 yards. The 35 is loaded to 1800 give or take with 200 fn, and the 45-70 is 1350 ish with a 300 rf. Both are soft shooting loads. The smaller calibers are fine and will kill deer but I wait on the almost perfect broadside shot with these. Not as picky with the 35 or 45-70. If at some future date the 45-70 can be loaded up to the limits of the rifle and offer even more opportunities. If I were to add another levergun I would be looking at the 44 mag or 444 marlin just for velocity more so then anything else, but not really needed as I don't have any holes in the calibers I already have.
I hope the info is useful.
Tony
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
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Geez, nobody mentioned a Henry, go look at the Henry levers, they won't pince your fingers loading them! Plus they are well made. A 44 mag or 45 colt will take a deer as will the great 30/30. But a 45/70 will take anything in North America. Plus you can easily load it down to low 44 or 45 levels for no-kick, just plain fun plinking/ practice. Have fun whatever you pick.
I've had several levers. A 45-70, 30-30, 35 REM and 44 MAG. All Marlins (no Remlins). Sold the 45-70 when it got to be too much for my 68 year old shoulder. Now, if I want to kill something, I take the 35 Rem. If I want a fun day at the range it's the 44 mag. All of my levers are at least 30 years old.
Since you ask, and not knowing your trigger time here it goes. I would think first would be a 336 in 30WCF (nice used JM one with character), about the cheapest to shoot easily scoped solid harvester. Then when the bug really takes a set find that 1895 in 45-70 and step your game up. Then with enough available expendable cash find a nice 1894 in 44. The 35, well, I think there are secret hand shakes, meetings, club dues and all that I think. Not sure but those of us on the outside have seen and heard things, just sayin!
Lots of good advice already given. You will appreciate the handiness of a lever once you try it. Don't think you will stop at 1 of them once you try it. If you take care of it they only only go up in value (both in terms of $ and in a place in your heart).
As and oddball out I'll suggest you look for a Mikoru Winchester 95 in 30-49 Krag! Great gun, great cast caliber, and brass is still available. Mine is in 405 Win, and that would be a possibility too for the Buff hunt.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
a .30-30 will do just fine on a buffalo. plus you can get ammo just about anywhere.
The original 26” Marlin Cowboy 45-70 sure hangs good for offhand shooting. A friend brought one over and we shot clays offhand at 100 yards with a light Unique/340grCB load. We hit a bunch! I called right of first refusal but I guess he wasn’t listening, that sweet rifle went to someone else.
The 444 Marlin is another option. My T4 has a production date of July 2019.
Marlin 1895 444 Marlin
Marlin 1894 44Mag/44Spl
Czy Horse, Is your "1895" Marlington 444 stamped as a "Model 1895" on the barrel or does the roll marks say "Model 444" and 444 Caliber as they always did when they were known as the 444 marlin? I ask because the ones I have seen are still marked Model 444 and the only people calling them 1895s are Remington people who don't know the difference. What is even worse is they do not bother to educate themselves. They bought the company so can designate the model at any model number they want to, but if they are going to do that, you would think they would change the roll marks or quit calling them 1895s. They are after all, a derivative of the 336 action not the old original 1895 Marlin action.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |