reloading bench?

[454redhawk]

http://accurateshooter.net/Blog/benchnrma.pdf

[onelight]

If you are concerned go ahead and run the sides down to the floor to transfer part of the load to the floor ( will need to notch the back for base board )
But if your home is standard 16" on center wood studs if should be fine if you are concerned it could possibly be widened to add the support of another wall stud .

[jsizemore]

Before this I've been using my press mounted to a table with clamps. It works but its a pain to set up and break down when I want to do some loading.

That's not actually a picture of my desk only one that is similar. The one I've got is 2" thick and solid (no pressboard). I removed the slide out keyboard holder from under the desk so there is room to add a few layers of 3/4 play or even 2x stock.

You could buy sloted angle or use a 2x4 with construction adhesive and decking screws at inside joints. If it bounces or tips, I'd drill through the desk panels into wall studs.

[725]

Lots of good table top to ground support (4x4's) and lag bolts into the wall studs for the back vertical would be my suggestion.

[farmbif]

I made a press stand with an aluminum I beam, mig welded flat plates to each end and used 4 concrete lag screw to bolt it to floor. I always wanted one of those benches that 454redhawk posted, I think it is ideal if you have the space, but I'm I'm no cabinet maker.

[shooterg]

If the OP's desk is actually all 2" for-real wood, it ain't gonna need much else ! Go to closest construction site and get some 2x4 scrap out of the dumpster for brackets , buy some screws, sounds like you may have a drilldriver, you're good. But you are now required to show us a pic ! Or it didn't happen !!

[poppy42]

Funny I built my custom bench a few years back. Apartment sized. Used 4 x 4‘s for legs in bracing double Up two by fours made it extra strong. Are use peanuts to attach all my equipment for easy on easy off. At the time I built it thought it was Plenty big enough!! Now two years later and a couple additional presses, powder measures, bench primers, and other miscellaneous equipment! Big enough now? not so much! My wife says I’m like a yeast roll My stuff keeps growing!!!!!!Personally I think the bench must’ve got wet and shrunk or something!!! LOL oh well. I guess it’s time to design and build a bigger bench! I just got a build it and sneak it in when wife’s not around. Either that or I’ll be moving my stuff and me outside to little 8 x 10 plastic storage shed! Don’t want to have to do that cause that thing gets mighty hot in the summer and mighty cold in the winter! Ha ha ha

[David2011]

I’m in the “use wood for the brackets” corner. That said, if you’re having trouble drilling steel with a hand drill your bit is dull. Replace it.

[onelight]

If you let the top hang over the back 11/2 " you can screw a 2X4 the length of the bench on the bottom of the top and get the bench where you want it and screw the 2X4 to the studs in the wall . If it's in the a corner do bothe walls if you have enough depth on the bench to hit 2 wall studs deck screws are good enough here.
To keep it from racking just screw a pice of ply on the end . If the legs are set back 4" from the edge of the top you can add shelves or hang tools on the ply that ties the legs together

[Scrounge]

I’m in the “use wood for the brackets” corner. That said, if you’re having trouble drilling steel with a hand drill your bit is dull. Replace it.

Or learn to sharpen it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qze0GyBxBRY This ain't the way I learned it in class, but it obviously works. You can do something similar with a pin vise and tiny drills on a diamond hone or classic sharpening stone.

[CLAYPOOL]

I have one of those benches shown . You can send for the plans. I hired mine built several years ago because i am a DUCK BLIND GRADE CARPENTER...They are very nice..

[CLAYPOOL]

My top is NOT secured to the bottom half. Never had a problem. BUT.....i am in the process of building a really heavy steel bar stool type of seat..

[Zingger]

A few years ago I had the opportunity to buy an old NRMA-pattern and love it. Because it is my nature, I built my own for a bit more than I bought the original for, and didn't put the sliding doors on it. If you can read a tape, cut and have the basic tools it is a fairly straight-forward plan for a bench that will be a lifetime investment. There is a vintage RC and an RS on mine, as well as every accessory needed/wanted for basic reloading.
I had built multiple other benches in the 10 years I have been reloading seriously. Notched corners to fit better and have stronger joints, but none of them has a chance as compared to that NRMA pattern.

[1hole]

I have made four loading benches for myself and helped make four others. To determine the best size for a serious shooter, I've concluded a new bench should be as big as you'll need and double it, OR as big as you have room for. I've never heard anyone say, "I wish my bench was a just a little bit smaller!"

Bench legs of 2x4s are more than sufficient; 4x4s sure aren't needed so they're just a costly waste. Install a couple of sturdy storage shelves under the top for assorted "stuff" and you probably won't even need to affix the legs to the floor.

[country gent]

Last bench I built was extra heavy for in the shop. It has a butcher block style top of 2 X 4s and 2 X 8s 8' long. The top is 2 2x 4s 1 2 x 8, 3 2 x4s. a 2x8 3 2 x4s a 2 x 8 3 2 x4s a 2 x 8. 3 2 x 4s a 2 x 8 and 2 2x4s glued doweled and pinned together. the 08634 2 s24s of 2 x 8s make the sockets for the legs. Legs are 3 2 X 6 notched for the cross braces and glued a wedge to tighten joint then doweled long braves are 2 x 6s short are 2 x4s. end plates for bench top are 2 x 8s. No nails or screws used in construction of it. only bolts are the 3 holding the vise on. Bench top is 3 1/2" thick with 5 8" stiffening ribs. 3/4" dowels used to hold and 5/16" on edges of 3/4 dowels to lock them. this bench weighs just over 500lbs not wiggle wobble or shake when set and leveled 1 shelf on the cross braces. very heavy solid bench

[-D-]

http://accurateshooter.net/Blog/benchnrma.pdf

I built one of these 20 years ago. Probably have $300 into it. Very sturdy and customizable. Almost big enough for all my growing equipment and component pile. You'll expand to fill the space you have.

[onelight]

I have made four loading benches for myself and helped make four others. To determine the best size for a serious shooter, I've concluded a new bench should be as big as you'll need and double it, OR as big as you have room for. I've never heard anyone say, "I wish my bench was a just a little bit smaller!"

Bench legs of 2x4s are more than sufficient; 4x4s sure aren't needed so they're just a costly waste. Install a couple of sturdy storage shelves under the top for assorted "stuff" and you probably won't even need to affix the legs to the floor.

You are absolutely right for about 95% of us.....but we do have guys here that break cast iron presses and in general stress things a bit more than average

[1hole]

You are absolutely right for about 95% of us.....but we do have guys here that break cast iron presses and in general stress things a bit more than average

Well, there is that; I suspect some folk can destroy an anvil with a spoon.

Seems every time someone makes a "fool proof" device a more capable fool comes along and ... poof! I've seen web photos of snapped top straps on Rock Chuckers; that takes some exceptional talent for destruction!

[country gent]

I have said this for years, Nothing is fool proof the fools will always find a way. LOL. Nothing is more frustrating than a bench that wiggles shimmies or gives when working on it. I enjoy making things and building so I still do my wood working with out nails or screws. Dowels mortise and tenon joints dovetail joints and tapered take up pins Just like the old barns and furniture. More work but also more interesting to build.

The last bench required a little over 400 3/4" holes to be drilled on location. A Long with 1/2" holes and 5/16" lock pin holes. Much more work and time but also more satisfying when done. Im going to use it as is to clean up the machine tooling and things then plane the top flat and true. a few coats of oil and its done.

[David2011]

Or learn to sharpen it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qze0GyBxBRY This ain't the way I learned it in class, but it obviously works. You can do something similar with a pin vise and tiny drills on a diamond hone or classic sharpening stone.

That’s different from the way I learned as well but it looks like it works. Thanks for posting. I also have a Drill Doctor but not sure that it works better than a good hand sharpening. It’s probably better with small bits that are harder to hand sharpen. I just recommended replacement because it sounded like the OP might not have a lot of tools.