Do you boolits drop through the throats freely?
Do you boolits drop through the throats freely?
Still not as accurate as pin gages, and yes you can find taper with them very easily. Ball gage only measures diameter at a given spot. Pin gage measures 360 degrees and the entire length of the throat which a ball gage cannot do. Since boolit fit is dependent on 360 degrees, the pin gage is the accepted measurement for cylinder and barrel work.
It takes a long time and patience to develop a touch with ball gages and the % for inaccurate measurements is quite high. Not so with pin gages.
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
Since pin gauges are cylindrical, they most certainly can and do check for taper. Doing so is a simple matter of entering the gauge from both sides of the cylinder.
I'm going to have to respectfully disagree here, maybe because of the long time/patience/touch I have in using hole gages.
The long time experience has been recently greatly compressed with the advent of the net and youtube though
I'll just respond to a few of your statements and don't really want to start a debate here.
1.-""Still not as accurate as pin gages""
A ball gage can measure a hole to within a 0.0001".( yes I know standard gage pins are usually -0.0002")
A pin gage can only measure a hole to the increment of the pins, in most cases 0.001".
2.- ""Ball gage only measures diameter at a given spot.""
Once the ball gage is set, it can be moved in/out of the hole to detect taper.
3.- ""Pin gage measures 360 degrees""
A ball gage can be rotated and rocked thru for feel/check for roundness, a pin gage only measures the narrowest part of an out of round hole, without detecting any of the "ovality", and only to the nearest 0.001"(the increment of most pin gages)
Sure you can rock a pin gage to check for ovality but that's not measuring it, it's just "feeling it."
4.- ""a simple matter of entering the gauge from both sides of the cylinder.""
Yes, that will work for thru holes like cylinder throats, what about the chamber that ends at the throat step?
How do you determine that diameter(?), it could be bigger than the diameter at the back end of the chambers but cannot be determined with a pin gage.
A pin gage cannot determine/identify a restriction/burr at the mouth of a blind hole, a ball gage can, along with any taper small to big and any wide/narrow grooves in such a hole.
Yes pin gages are a valuable tool to measure small holes but are not the only way and having an alternate is always good.
I understand your views on this, I just have a different perspective.
And as stated, I won't be debating any of this but feel free to comment/respond.
Last edited by Kenstone; 11-01-2019 at 09:23 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
How does it shoot???
I actually own a Dorsey split ball dial indicator and a Starrett split ball dial indicator, both read in .0001" there are advantages to split ball as you stated, it's almost hilarious watching the dial sweep as you turn the ball in an egged cylinder throat. I rarely pull these out anymore as you can assume plenty of Rugers have egged throats. I just hone them to size and usually the Sunnen hone has made the throat pretty round by the time it finishes.
I find the gage pin closely mimics what the boolit will be presented to, since gage pins and boolits are both cylindrical in shape, so if there is an oval throat, both boolit and pin will find their own center in the same manner, by finding the least resistance. No other measuring tool assimilates the boolit better than a pin so this is what I use almost exclusively.
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
I could never see spending $100 for a set of pin gauges so I do it the old fashioned way: drive a soft lead slug through the mouth and mike it.
A box of 100 Speer 50-caliber soft lead balls costs $16 and will last for years.
I save the ones used on .44/.45 caliber and reuse on .357s.
You can get single pins in a range to do one gun for $25 in half thou increments. Meyer gauge sells singles for 2-3 bucks in the 35 caliber range they have a minimum order of $25 so you could cover .356" to .361" in ten pins and make minimum order.
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
Since the OP is concerned about the diameter of his cylinder throats, and you admit that pin gauges can detect taper in cylinder throats, I will let the obvious statement of agreement that pin gauges can indeed detect taper in this area of concern to the OP stand on its own merits. The statement that pin gauges can detect taper is quite valid.
Let us not discuss other concerns in the area the case fits in rather than the bullet. Pin gauges are a widely accepted standard tool for gauging revolver cylinder throats. That will remain so despite any commentary to the contrary because they accomplish the needed measurement sufficiently well that the proper fix is identified and applied due to their usage.
They do the needed job well. They have a wide range of application to other uses as well. No more needs be said.
Most cylinder holes are no longer cut in the traditional drill/ream process of the past, but instead are cut with circular interpolation programming.
That method introduces many more variables to hole cutting that can affect all aspects of the resulting hole.
The hole can end up egg shaped/tapered/oval/ribbed/etc. depending on the ramp-up in the program, size of the cutter, cutter sharpness/depth of cut, with any and all these conditions subject to what is acceptable results by the maker.
Something to ponder for those who only envision the old school drill/ream machining process.
These holes considered "good enough" by the maker, can be "improved" by "us" using different processes like reaming/lapping/honing but only by making them bigger...
https://www.bing.com/search?q=circul...FORM=QBLH&sp=1
just some info, interesting for some, useless for most,
Last edited by Kenstone; 03-13-2020 at 11:26 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Ok sorry for the large gap of time from my last post to now work has been hectic lately. I took it to the range and bought some Fiochi .357 mag fmj to test and the shots were all over the target as well as keyholing.
With calipers I would slug the cylinder with pure lead round balls and measure the balls you will be close enough.
I have not had much success measuring a hole with calipers.
problem is when I try to use a .358 dia. Slug it falls right through the throat no force needed.
Onelight nailed it. Because of the radius of the chamber a dial calipers won't work, you can see it when you insert them into the chamber. My bullets drop from the mold at .360-.361, push one through the cylinder and see where you're at. I'd size some bullets to .358 and shoot them, I don't think you have a problem....
I find it hard to believe the factory throats are oversized but it is sure possible. I hope Ruger does you right.
Cool! Best overall fix.
As for your "calipers" for measuring ... my calipers do me a fine job ... easy now all ye naysayers. I use the "sharp" end of the caliper to loosely measure a hole. If you use strength and begin flexing a good set of calipers, they become useless. They are capable of giving you the closest .001 of an inch ... providing the calipers have been used properly and cared for properly.
Never force a set of calipers.
Never store calipers completely closed.
Never store calipers dirty.
Never use calipers as a scraping tool.
Always use care when using calipers and treat them as a fine measuring tool.
Now having said this, NOTHING can take the place of ball gauges, pin gauges and other bore measuring tools such as snap gauges.
I know this furthers the debate ... HOWEVER ... most of us use these as a GENERAL gauge to get an idea of the nearest .001 inch ( thousanths ) . Rarely do general shooters have need to get any closer that this ... especially cast boolit shooters. Softer lead boolits will expand under powder explosion/burn pressure.
We are not making nuclear high grade weapons here. Just mostly shooting our guns and have expectation of REASONABLE accuracy. If most of us can hit a 2 or three inch dot at 30 yards, we are happy.
That is what I do. I usually just buy the single pin gauges I need for a caliber from McMaster. Class Z are a little over $4 each, can get cheaper elsewhere but MC is convenient and I get them next day.. I don't want to have to run to my shop and get them out of my sets. If you are really anal you can get class ZZ pins in .0001" increments. I have customers that ask if you have precise accurate pin gauges before they will give you the work, there is a reason for that. I have plenty of calipers and a plethera of telescoping and ball gauges for indirect measurement and they are used for +-.001". That calipers not even for that.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |