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Thread: Reloading Die update needed?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    avogunner's Avatar
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    Reloading Die update needed?

    I've been reloading since 1981 when I bought a Pacific reloading kit (press, measure, beam scale, etc) as a young Marine LCpl. When I bought the kit I picked up some Pacific Durachrome dies for the calibers I loaded then (still load for); .30-06, .35 Rem, .30-30, .45 ACP, and .38/357 (by the way, they were $11 brand spanking new then). I've picked up some additional dies over the years from other manufacturers when I've added calibers to load for but I've never bought a duplicate caliber of what I have already.
    So...my question is, what are your thoughts on updating 30+ year old dies? This applies to all calibers but I'm specifically thinking of my .30-06 right this second - I've loaded thousands of rounds with those dies for my Garand's, 03's, and Win 1895, and they seem to keep producing fine ammo but would I see any benefit a newer set? Has there been any significant design/product improvement in rifle die performance that I could benefit from?
    Thanks for your thoughts....
    Semper Fi.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Unless the dies you have are not producing quality ammo, there is no need to update your dies. If you want new dies, there is nothing wrong with getting them.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  3. #3
    Banned

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    I'm still using dies from the 30's in my Lyman tru-line junior!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Almost all the dies I’ve ever bought are used.

    Among the few “upgrades” I’ve bought (also used) are carbide dies for straight walled pistol cases, to avoid the lubing step. I’ve gotten lazy in my old age. Also, if I have a chance to get Redding dies used&cheap, or RCBS same, I might pick them up to replace older dies of more obscure lineage. This doesn’t always improve the quality of the reloaded ammo, but if not, I’m only out a double sawski or so.

    Unless you seriously scratch or score the inside of a die, or load commercially and physically wear them out, Pacific Durachromes are good dies that should last a lifetime.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Reloading dies aren't a "high wear tool", meaning they normally won't wear out to the extent of not producing good, safe ammo. From a practical standpoint, you probably don't "need" new dies, but there's nuttin' wrong with treating yourself to new toys...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  6. #6
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    Most reloading dies and presses will outlast the users. I have worn out a couple of presses, but that was after hundreds of thousands of rounds loaded. (I've been at this since 1963, and currently load 33 calibers) If there's nothing wrong with your current dies, then continue to use them.

    With that said, I have multiple die sets in a lot of my calibers, since I like something one die will do better than another, so I "mix and match". I'm not particularly brand loyal, though I do have certain preferences in certain areas.

    The bottom line is if the current dies are still working, load away with them and enjoy the finished product.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred

    Semper Fi back at you (1965-1971)
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    I have some 310 dies that I have no idea just how old they are that work just fine. Gp

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    maybe update to carbide dies for the straight wall pistol cartridges, but otherwise unless the dies are no longer in decent condition, no reason to replace them.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lefty o View Post
    maybe update to carbide dies for the straight wall pistol cartridges, but otherwise unless the dies are no longer in decent condition, no reason to replace them.
    Although I use carbide dies for pistol cartridges for there convenience Steel dies do a better if slower job by allowing the slight taper of many cases as to Sammi specs. Gp

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    WOW, I hope not! I bought most of my dies off eBay and many are at least as old as yours are!
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



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    Unless the dies are scratching the cases, stay the course
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy Mike Kerr's Avatar
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    I must join the chorus. No need to update if they still work adequately. Die manufacturer's would love your spirit but it is really not necesary to spend the money for NEED. Now WANT is a separate topic.
    regards,


  13. #13
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    I always look for used dies first to try to find a deal and then buy new if no used are available.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I did wear out a 308 die but the m1as were on their 3rd and 4th barrels when I replaced it. It wasn't scratching cases ( actually was giving a nice burnished finish) but just wouldnt size the bodies down enough to chamber 100% anymore. Unless your having chambering issues, scratches or problems holding headspace bump there is no need to replace those fine old dies.
    Keep them clean and lubed they will last forever.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Loaded some 30-06 last night on RCBS dies made in 1966, still working well.

  16. #16
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    I did pretty much the same thing when I got out in 1980, and am happy with the old stuff,
    except for getting carbide sizer dies for the straight wall hand gun cals.
    I really like them and won't go back to the old school ones.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Lots of good posts above, but just a thought on my experience. I bought 2 die sets from ebay vendors. One set was so-so with rounded off hex sockets on the set screws and slightly rough body threads, like user tightened down the lock ring with vice grips, way too tight. The last set, RCBS 3 die 44 Magnum set. The body threads were distorted. They looked like a gorilla used vice grips with a 36" extension and leaned on it. Lock rings were ruined, ID thread was distorted/ruined. All the set screws had to be drilled and an easy out used because hex socket wasn't hex, but round. General appearence was indicating abuse by ignorant previous owner. Being a machinist/mechanic I was able to make them usable again, mainly because I didn't want to hassle with the vendor (who knew nothing about what he was selling) waiting to send dies back, wait for a refund I fixed them I chased all threads, installed new Forster rings, fixed internal threads on sizing die, and they became usable again. I haven't purchased any used dies since, unless I have them in my hand before buying...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    I may buy a back-up set if it is one of my high use calibers . . . IF the price is right.

    I have been known to put something on the table, come back in 5 minutes and it's gone. 73 years old--I need to do this more and more
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Pacific durachrome dies are more of a lifetime die than your ordinary steel dies which are in fact also lifetime dies.

    That said, I do buy carbide dies for convenience and safety from neglecting to lube a casing when they are available.

    I also have bought other dies or sets to accomplish a desired outcome with a few cartridges. Varmint rounds are a good example. The Lee Collet neck sizing die is one of those situations.

    I have not tried the RCBS X die but that could be another one to consider for some.

    Though I am really smitten with RCBS in general, I have grown quite fond of the Hornady New Dimension seater die. I like the smaller bullet seating run outs I get with them.

    As I morph into other dies of the same caliber, I have been reluctant to let go of the dies these newer additions have replaced. It is a bit costly but I tend to keep the dies that are now set aside. Sometimes you encounter an unusual situation where the “other die” bails you out.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    I been loading for 50 plus years and i am always up dating reloading tools.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check