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Thread: .35 WSL model 1905

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    I just picked up a 05 in 35 wsl #22538. poor old girl has been handled rather roughly. Her forend was busted all to ****. So I disassembled and cleaned everything very good. I then put five layer of masking tape on the bolt and waxed it up real well. I used this and some accra glass to glue the forearm back together. after the glass was dry I remove two layers of tape waxed it back up and bedded the fore arm to the bolt.
    while waiting for the dedding to dry I started looking to ammo. I am not sure if the chamber has been modifyed but a 38 special round drops right into this gun. it seats all the way into the rim recess. after my bedding had dried and I had the bolt removed I first put a fired case into the chamber. the bolt closed and ejected the fired case with no problem. I then tried the same with a live round. it to loaded and ejected as it should.
    so I am wondering if I can just shoot 38 special ammo in this rifle? anybody have any opinions?

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    The absolute first thing I would do is replace the recoil spring and buffers. Wolff Springs has the springs, Numrich has the buffers. You don't want to crack the receiver, or keep having the forearm crack.
    The diameter of .38 SP rims is actually too large. I use .38 sp brass but I reduce the rims to approx. .408". But, if they work in your rifle, what the heck. Also, the .38 sp bullets are too big. I use .352" cast bullets in my .35 WSL. Have you slugged the bore? How about a chamber casting?
    Last edited by Battis; 08-24-2020 at 01:01 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    The absolute first thing I would do is replace the recoil spring and buffers. Wolff Springs has the springs, Numrich has the buffers. You don't want to crack the receiver, or keep having the forearm crack.
    The diameter of .38 SP rims is actually too large. I use .38 sp brass but I reduce the rims to approx. .408". But, if they work in your rifle, what the heck. Also, the .38 sp bullets are too big. I use .352" cast bullets in my .35 WSL. Have you slugged the bore? How about a chamber casting?
    I has two new looking buffers in it already. I have the forearm glued back together, and it is now coated on the inside with a layer of accra glass bedding compond. no I havent slugged the bore or done a chamber casting. I know the bullets are bigger but was thinking that cast lead would squeeze down without causing too much pressure.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I guess it would depend on the bore. .38sp = .358", down to .352". I never had luck doing chamber casts, but slugging the bore isn't hard.
    If the spring isn't as strong as it should be, everything takes a beating.
    Last edited by Battis; 08-24-2020 at 04:42 PM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I guess it would depend on the bore. .38sp = .358", down to .352". I never had luck doing chamber casts, but slugging the bore isn't hard.
    If the spring isn't as strong as it should be, everything takes a beating.
    thank you. is there any way you know of to check the spring? I took it out and I can tell you it is a B**ch to get back together, lol as a matter of fact I still havent got it so I will do the chamber cast before I do so.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    The only way that I know to check the spring is to replace it. I'm always amazed when I replace any spring in any old gun at how compressed the older one is compared to the new. Wolff Springs are good - their shipping is slow.
    There is a method to install the spring and buffers by preloading them in the bolt. I'll see if I can find the threads showing the method.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Check out these posts. It makes the job of installing much easier. It's the same technique for the .32, .35, .351 and .401.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Recoil-Spring

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Check out these posts. It makes the job of installing much easier. It's the same technique for the .32, .35, .351 and .401.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Recoil-Spring
    thank you for the link. Funny I made a t handle today. it has two holes in it. slide it into bolt assembly and then slide the spring over the top of the rod and put the pin in the hole in the end. now pull on the t part to compress the spring and expose the second hole at the front of the bolt. installin a piece of drill rod holds the spring compressed. this is as far as i had it through though so the other thread made the next steps perfectly clear. I am now wondering if there is room in the 05 to turn a short pilot in the end of the T to facilitate lining up the buffers and washers?

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I'm not sure what you mean.

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean.
    on my "05" there are two buffers with a metal washer against the lug on the barrel and another between buffer and spring. if Imade a new T handle and turn a section of the leg down so the washers and buffers would slide up to a shoulder, then had a hole for the pin in front of that, I could put the long leg of the tool through the bolt, then slide the spring onto it and put in the first pin. Clamp the bolt into padded vise jaws and compress the spring and install the second pin holding the spring compressed. Install the buffers and washers on the turned part of the tool and then put the bolt into the reciever and clamp it in the fully open position using a c clamp or vise with padded jaws. This captures the spring inside the front of the bolt. pull the front pin, remove the t tool and install the guide rod. whew the tuff part is over.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    I'm kinda following you. Will you use the hole in the post that the buffers rest against?
    Eventually someone will come up with the original factory installation tool. You might be closing in on it.
    I've changed the springs on my .35 and .351, but not the .401 or .32. They're not available, but the ones in those two rifles seem to be in good shape.
    Recently I finished the Winchester Self Loader collection by adding a 1903 .22.

    If you want, I can tell you how I make the ammo for the .35 and .351 from .38 sp and .357 mag brass.. Trial and error paid off.

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I'm kinda following you. Will you use the hole in the post that the buffers rest against?
    Eventually someone will come up with the original factory installation tool. You might be closing in on it.
    do you mean the small hole at the end of the thread in the block If so then no.




    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    If you want, I can tell you how I make the ammo for the .35 and .351 from .38 sp and .357 mag brass.. Trial and error paid off.
    that would be great. I assume you are turning the rim on 38spl down to the proper diameter for the 35. are you then puting in an extractor groove?

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I don't cut an extractor groove. I reduce the rims with a drill press (or regular drill) and file as close to .408" as I can get. In my .351 WSL, case rims from .404" to .411" work well.
    I use a .352" cast bullet from an Accurate Mold.
    I use .38/.357 dies. To get neck tension on a .352 bullet in a 38 sp case, I use a 9mm crimp die (for the length of the bullet)
    Then I expand the case mouth slightly, and seat the bullet with the .38/.357 seating die, and crimp with the seating die. Small rifle primer, IMR-4227 12+- grs.
    I was having a hard time getting neck tension on the case, but the 9mm crimp die works perfectly.

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub Steelpounder's Avatar
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    here is a picture of the tool I made for installing the spring. I also made a smaller T out of Micarta that drops into the action blocking the bolt from moving forward but didnt tak a picture of it.

    so it all works like this. insert the metal T throught the bolt and slide the spring onto it. install the small 3/32 pin in the end of the rod. Put the bolt into a vise with padded jaws and pull back on the handle compressing the spring, install the long pin through the T at the front of the bolt. the spring is now compressed inside the bolt. install the the bolt into the receiver and put the washers and buffers in place. now slide the bolt back as far as it will go and install the Micarta block, to hold the bolt back keeping the spring compressed. put the receiver, barrel and bolt back into the padded viseclamping on the sides of the bolt again. pull on the t and remove the long pin, this lets spring push the bolt forward against the micarta block. you can now pull the short pin using needle nose pliers and remove the T handle and install the guide rod. push forward on the action and remove the micarta block from the receiver and let the bolt close slowly and youre done. reassemble the forearm and butt stock . easy peasy


  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    That's basically what I do. I preload the spring in the bolt on a cleaning rod with a screw on the end (a pin works better than the screw). I run a thick wire through the post that the buffers sit against (I'm pretty sure that's why the hole is in the post). I slide this wire into the spring to hold it in place when I remove the cleaning rod and replace it with the correct guide rod that screws in. After a few times, it isn't bad, It's a little different with the .401 - the buffers have to be in place before the preloaded spring is inserted.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Here's some irony - I was posting about replacing the springs - the old springs might be worn, too weak, etc. Yesterday I replaced the recoil spring in my newly acquired Dreyse .32 1907 (same era as the WSL). The pistol worked just fine with the old spring but with the new, stiffer spring, ejection didn't happen. I could increase the load, but I think I'll just go back to the old spring.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check