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Thread: Lee Enfield Problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee Enfield Problem

    The other day I had fired maybe 40 rounds thru my no 4 Mk1 when it stopped firing. The ammo, a cast bullet gallery load, was all loaded the same, primers and all, in the same session.
    Upon pulling the trigger the firing pin would fall, seemingly normally, but the primer was not marked. The firing pin was inspected but was fine. Upon testing, there were some misfires, two rounds fired then back to misfiring. I never had a misfire prior to this.

    Any suggestions as to what might cause this?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    Broken firing pin spring?

    How did you inspect the firing pin, did you pull the whole bolt apart or unscrew the bolt head from the bolt?


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  3. #3
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    Or maybe gunk and debris in the firing pin channel. To find out, you'll have to completely disassemble the bolt. You'll need a special tool to take the firing pin out of the bolt. The firing pin has a collar with two notches in it, and comes out of the bolt body to the front once the bolt head has been screwed off. The tool is a tube that is small enough in diameter to fit inside the firing pin channel, with the hole in the middle of the tube being large enough to pass over the firing pin. The tube has two projections on the end that fit into the notches in the firing pin collar. The firing pin is threaded on the bottom and screws into/out of the cocking piece. The tool is usually made with a hole across it's diameter at the top and a cross rod through the hole to make a "T" handle. You can make this tool, but they are available ready made from Brownell's. The firing pin is under pressure from the firing pin spring, so when the threaded end comes out of the cocking piece it will want to launch, but is contained within the tool. I've found the best technique when taking the bolt assembly apart is to clamp the cocking piece in a bench vise, then turn the pin counter-clockwise until it releases. I'm usually able to get them reassembled without the vise. Sometimes on some firing pins I have found that just a very small amount of the tip broke off, just enough to prevent the rifle from firing, but not easy to observe. Fortunately, parts are still readily available.
    Last edited by Der Gebirgsjager; 10-20-2019 at 09:59 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    The bolt head was removed and a visual inspection done. Before removing and after replacing the bolt head firing pin protrusion was checked. The nose of the pin is smooth, radiuses and free of chipping. I have wondered about a broken spring as it seems the movement of the cocking piece when trigger is pulled is sluggish. That may be my imagination.
    Further inspection will have to wait until I get the tool to remove the firing pin.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Can the firing pin/cocking piece move freely within the bolt body? If not the problem is in the bolt. I have never experienced a problem like yours.
    Slather the internals with oil, if it comes out seeps out brown it's full of rust, I have seen this many a time but never to the point of misfire. It could be a possibility.
    Keep us informed.
    When you read the fine print you get an education
    when you ignore the fine print you get experience

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    sounds like a broken firing pin or spring

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Very simple to check.remove bolt,turn cocking piece to fired position.see if firing pins sticks out thru the hole in the bolthead..........I f not,I might suspect a broken spring,and the halves have partially threaded together,preventin the pin from moving forward,or maybe just a wad of hard grease.........In fact,you dont even have to remove the bolt,just 1/2 open it,turn the cocking piece ,and see if you can see the pin.......you should also be able to cock the rifle with your fingers,and test the spring strength.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I've made up a bolt tool using some steel 1/8 pipe and a brass tee
    fitting. I filed down the section that fits inside the bolt with two projections to match the cutouts on the firing pin. Then used some kasenit (no longer sold because of the cyanide in it) and darned if it didn't work. And most important, do not forget to remove the cocking piece retaining screw. Buddy made up one like mine and the projections broke off. Had fun with that one. You can also make one up using a old socket that fits inside the bolt, have to use a dremel for the projections though. Frank

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Make sure the bolt is completely closed when firing.
    If open (bolt handle not down all the way) the firing pin can drop when the trigger is pulled,,you will hear a 'click' like it should have fired,,but the round will not fire and the primer will be unstruck.

    That's a safety feature in the rifle (and most every other bolt rifle).

    Also check the sear engagement surface on the bolt and the sear & sear spring in the rifle itself.
    A damaged sear surface that lets the bolt drop to half cock as the bolt is closed should not allow the trigger to be pulled from that position. BUt who knows what can happen. Perhaps the rifle is dropping to a damaged half cock position too when occasionally being closed and then allowed to be 'fired' from there. Not enough power to fire the round maybe? but I would think there would be at least some imprint.
    Just thinking about possibilitys..
    (No4Mk1* may not have a half cock position,,they usually had a smooth sided cocking piece when assembled.)

    The firing pin is either broke or it isn't. Unscrew the bolt head and see if a separate piece comes out in your hand or is loose in there.
    Check the firing pin protrusion, or if you have any at all by simply turning the cocking piece to the fired position with the bolt assembly in you hand. Does the pin tip protrude from the bolt face or not.

    The firing pin spring strength you have to judge on experience. But if the striker feels sluggish or rough in cocking & letting it forward by hand then there's a chance the spring is broken or otherwise kinked and slowing the striker fall at times.

    Disassembling the SMLE bolt is not a big deal and not a bad idea anyway once in a while for general maint, clean & lube and look-see in there.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check