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Thread: Chainsaw won't stay running

  1. #21
    the saw is 20 years old? so the crank seals are 20 years old, they get hard, I would replace them for sh*ts and grins. I vote crank seals.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Another problem area just might be the jug to crankcase seal.Was there an actual gasket there or was it sealed with the silicon stuff that you used?
    If an actual gasket was used,that silicon stuff just might be the culprit.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Most 2 cycle running problems are usually always a vacuum problem. Cracked gas line or a pin hole bad crank seals. The last couple of years ITs been mostly carburetor problems from the alcohol in the gas. I have been lucky that the cheep Chinese carbs have so far worked good for me. I only had one that wouldent idle just right. After adjusting it it now is ok. A lot of bad coils lately also

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonp View Post
    Managed to score the cylinder by mistakingly running straight gas through my 20yr old Husky 41. I bought a new cylinder and piston with rings and put on a new carb, fuel line, filter and bearings while I was at it. I used Versachem High Temp Red RTV to seal the bottom onto the cylinder. All looked good but it wouldn't start and stay running. First time I could get it going with starting fluid and then revving while playing with the choke. I thought this indicated an air leak so took it apart, scraped off the old gasket stuff and put on new then resealed. Would not even run. I took the carb apart and blew it out then put it back together and with a little starting fluid will run but dies. Won't stay running.

    Any ideas? I don't think I'm putting anymore money into this one as I bought a new Jonsered cs2152c a sawshop had on the shelf. I just want a saw to leave at camp and put my Chinese one out there for that but would like to get this old saw running. I've cut a ton of wood with it.
    you could try checking the ground wire connection at the kill switch, maybe it's just loose, or maybe the ground wire itself is shorting out against the frame ,etc

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by woodbutcher View Post
    Another problem area just might be the jug to crankcase seal.Was there an actual gasket there or was it sealed with the silicon stuff that you used?
    If an actual gasket was used,that silicon stuff just might be the culprit.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    I put new seals in. It didn't have a gasket, it had factory seal stuff. I used red rtv high temp to seal. Took it apart after the first try, cleaned all of the seal off and put new on
    I am become death. The destroyer of worlds

    We all do our duty when there is not cost to it, honor comes easier then. Sooner or later there comes a day in every man's life when it is not so easy, a day when he must choose and live with it for the rest of his days.

    The further society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it
    George Orwell

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Ok.That should eliminate that area.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check