Aluminum molds

[rando71]

Anything different in using them? Randall

[Wheelguns 1961]

They don’t take as much heat to preheat.

[Uncle Jimbo]

I have several Lee aluminum molds and 1 brass Mp mold. I will take the aluminum over the brass any day.

[Rcmaveric]

Aluminum conducts heat pretty fast. So they will heat up and cool quickest.

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[Bazoo]

My experience is that aluminum Lee moulds need to be run a little hotter to keep good fillout. I've cast with an accurate aluminum mould and I felt it didn't need as much heat to stay up to temperature.

[Rich/WIS]

Agree with Bazoo on the Lee molds, NOE being heavier construction held heat better. Need to experiment a bit when you get one to see what works best, but that is true of any mold.

[kmw1954]

I just started and am using a Lee Aluminum mold. I also have nothing to compare it with but I am happy with the bullets it's producing.

[DHDeal]

Having used iron and brass molds to start with, I was expecting to not like aluminum molds for my revolvers. I wuz wrong!

All of my aluminum molds are Accurate Molds and after cleaning them when new and learning to preheat on a hot plate, they are very easy to use. Since they can shed heat quickly, I keep my cadence up and really make a pile of quality bullets quickly.

Having never used Lee molds I cannot comment on them.

[ukrifleman]

I have Lee, Lyman and RCBS moulds and they all work just fine.

As previously posted, Lee moulds heat up quicker and you will be casting good bullets sooner.

The other advantage with aluminium Lee moulds is that being lighter than steel, it's less tiring when casting for extended periods.

ukrifleman

[sharps4590]

I have Lee, Accurate, Rapine, RCBS, Lyman, TC and NEI molds. The Lee, Accurate and Rapine are aluminum and they cast as good as the others. I don't know when Lee changed their molds but these later ones are a LOT better than the ones from the 70's and 80's. Only complaint I have is they could use a little more mass, they're pretty light with that rebate on the bottom half.

[gundownunder]

Aluminium is a lot lighter than brass or iron.
It is also less prone to warping than brass, and won't rust like iron.
All mine are from Accurate molds, they are bigger than the Lee so control temp much better, and they are very well made.
I can use 2 x 4 gang molds at the same time and crank out about 600 - 700 bullets an hour, for a couple of hours, without getting fatigued.

[longbow]

It all depends on what aluminum mould you are talking about.

As stated above Lee moulds are pretty lightweight and heat fast. I can't say I have noticed needing a hotter mould with Lee moulds. My NOE aluminum moulds want to be run like brass moulds... as in hot and fast!

Different strokes, I'd take brass over aluminum any day and especially MIHEC brass or Accurate brass. If I had to pick one mould material though iron would be it. I like iron moulds. I hear the rust comments and kinda laugh a bit. Yes, they have to be protected from rust but so do aluminum and brass moulds. Aluminum and brass mould blocks won't rust but the steel alignment pins and more importantly the steel sprue plate can rust and if it does it will damage the softer mould blocks... fast!

One thing about aluminum moulds is that even the high strength alloy moulds like NOE are relatively soft and can be scratched easily, much moreso than brass or iron moulds. Having said that one shouldn't be poking any mould with hard stuff. Stuck on lead should be picked off with plastic or wood or better heated and wiped off. Use of even copper wire on an aluminum mould can scratch it and certainly using steel nails, a screwdriver or similar can damage aluminum, brass or iron moulds. Aluminum is easiest to damage though.

Longbow

[hermans]

It all depends on what aluminum mould you are talking about.

As stated above Lee moulds are pretty lightweight and heat fast. I can't say I have noticed needing a hotter mould with Lee moulds. My NOE aluminum moulds want to be run like brass moulds... as in hot and fast!

Different strokes, I'd take brass over aluminum any day and especially MIHEC brass or Accurate brass. If I had to pick one mould material though iron would be it. I like iron moulds. I hear the rust comments and kinda laugh a bit. Yes, they have to be protected from rust but so do aluminum and brass moulds. Aluminum and brass mould blocks won't rust but the steel alignment pins and more importantly the steel sprue plate can rust and if it does it will damage the softer mould blocks... fast!

One thing about aluminum moulds is that even the high strength alloy moulds like NOE are relatively soft and can be scratched easily, much moreso than brass or iron moulds. Having said that one shouldn't be poking any mould with hard stuff. Stuck on lead should be picked off with plastic or wood or better heated and wiped off. Use of even copper wire on an aluminum mould can scratch it and certainly using steel nails, a screwdriver or similar can damage aluminum, brass or iron moulds. Aluminum is easiest to damage though.

Longbow

I agree 100% with what Longbow said, could not have said it any better.
My sentiments exactly after more that 40 years of casting.

[lightman]

Besides what everyone else posted I recommend reading the sticky about mold lube.

[Petander]

As previously posted, Lee moulds heat up quicker and you will be casting good bullets sooner.

For me,casting is a relaxing hobby by itself. Words like "sooner" or "faster" don't apply.

I do like al molds. But I do like other materials as well. Brass being my favorite.

[jr612]

Using lee molds taught me that I should probably read the instructions every now and then. My first mold was all galled because of a lack of proper lubricant.

[DocSavage]

I love my aluminium molds from NOE and Accurate find them easier to use in the long hall. Lighter than cast iron and brass heat up faster than both and long casting sessions are far less tiring and easier on joints that are arthritic.

[Tripplebeards]

I finally used my first brass mold a few weeks ago and got tinning with it right off the bat. Never had one issue with tinning in any of the aluminum molds I’ve used in the past. The brass 2 cavity mold feels like a brick compared to my aluminum mold. My wrist was getting sore Halfway through my 10 pound casting session. I could cast all day long with a Lee aluminum 2 cavity mold. Always thought brass molds look cool and still like them but Ill take an aluminum one over it for weight, price, ease of casting, and less maintenance. Heck my iron Single cavity 429260 mold feels like a feather compared to my brass molds. But I will say when everything works well imo the brass mold I tried cast boolits a lot nicer. A lot less burrs around the HP area... And I’m easy because that’s all it’s going to take to make me use a heavier mold.

[dahermit]

For me,casting is a relaxing hobby by itself. Words like "sooner" or "faster" don't apply.

I am a high volume shooter...in the Summer (and into fall...heated firing station), 96 rounds of .38 spl, everyday, seven days a week at steel bowling pin targets, double-action, sixteen yards away. My hobby is shooting, not casting...so for me and others like me, "sooner" or "faster" do apply. The problem with most forums is that a person cannot see beyond his own situation.

[Petander]

I am a high volume shooter...in the Summer (and into fall...heated firing station), 96 rounds of .38 spl, everyday, seven days a week at steel bowling pin targets, double-action, sixteen yards away. My hobby is shooting, not casting...so for me and others like me, "sooner" or "faster" do apply. The problem with most forums is that a person cannot see beyond his own situation.

Absolutely correct,Sir. We all do things for different reasons.

I was commenting about the mold warm-up speed. In my book one has to be really busy when mold warm-up speed matters.

I buy my 9 mm ammo,shoot so much. I cast for accuracy. To each his own,I'm not saying my way is right for someone else.