New Lee Locknuts

[jimkim]

Gag.

Those of who understand why Lee's lock rings have always been made the way they were - and used them correctly - won't be making tracks to buy the new ones so I don't care one way or the other. (Anyone using a wrench of any kind to jack down hard on a lock ring is doing it wrong, a hand tight die is plenty tight.)

Some people have joint, or nerve issues. I have both now.

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[hpdrifter]

Some people have joint, or nerve issues. I have both now.

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Some folks just don't understand old age and handicaps.

[Walks]

If you use the Lee lock rings on their dies and the Regular ones on your other brand dies, you'll always be messing up the alignment of your lee dies. I have only a few specialty lee Dies. I fit them with any other brand that screws down tight, just pull them from the old die junk box. It's amazing how much stuff is in that box after 45+yrs.

[EDG]

I loathe Lee lock rings. I set my bottle neck FL dies to position the shoulder to an exact match to my chambers. This is exact to .001". The Lee dies permit the die body to move in the lock ring. This changes the die setting and is unacceptable.

[beechbum444]

I never understood lee lock rings for dies , prefer rcbs ....

[tdoor4570]

I wonder if lee will give trade in on the old style o-ring lock nuts which I dislike very much .

[alamogunr]

Looks interesting. Might try one set to see how it works out on the turret. Set screws are a pain in a turret.

[nvbirdman]

If I was just starting out reloading I would think the new Lee locknuts are wonderful, but like some others here I would go bankrupt trying to switch all my dies over to the new locknuts.

[mdi]

The question I have is this: if the rubber o-ring design works, why have a split ring with a bolt to tighten it also?

I can't remember any rings with both an O-ring and locking clamp. The O-ring exerts an upwards force, pushing the ID threaded part upward and "jamming", adding friction to the threads and "locking" the assy. in place. The clamp type squeezes the nut against a body (OD thread). The O-ring type lock the die in the press and the clamp type lock the ring against the die. A clamp type ring acts like a bolt head, a solid stop, when the die/clamp is tightened in a press.That's the Reader's Digest (quickie) version.

When I started reloading, way pre-web, I used the lock rings that came with the dies. I read the instructions and didn't try to "retain" an adjustment every time I removed/replaced dies in my press. I checked and adjusted every time I installed a die...

[Rebel Dave]

I did the same as MDI. I think we all have been spoiled to a certain degree, with all the gadgets available on the market this day and age.
Dave

[725]

Looks interesting to me, but then I'm not one to criticize those in search of a better mouse trap. My stuff works just fine as is. If I find I want to try something new, I'll have an option.

[onelight]

Those look like a good option for some applications .
I may order a couple of sets.

[1hole]

The whole point of the Lee lockrings is to be hand tight ,put Lee lockrings on all my dies much simpler to use.

I have dies from all makers except Dillon (only because they were never at hand when I wanted another die set).

I hate the common set screw lock ring system for any dies and such locking power isn't needed - nor helpful - anyway. Cross-screw lock rings are "best" IF anyone thinks they need something to keep them from screwing up their adjustments.

Jamming a lock ring and die down with a wrench makes die exchanges both clumsy and slow and it adds nothing to the quality of the ammo. Lee's rubber "O" ring lock and hand tight dies are plenty secure for what dies need to do. Lee's rubber locking ring (used correctly) prevents unintended die turning and still allows the dies to self adjust for any machining slop in the 7/8" x 14 die-to-press threads ... and they ALL have some!

I have no idea why so many die makers have long used hex bar stock for their lock rings unless it's easier/faster (i.e., cheeper) for automatic lathes to cut and thread. But there are no dies superior to Forster/Bonanza and their lock rings have always been made of round aluminum bar stock without wrench flats, diamond knurled to provide a secure hand grip. (I really like the cross-bolt F/B lock rings ... at least after I've lathe turned the lower faces flat and perfectly square to the dies.)

[DougGuy]

I have to use the old ones a lot to be able to lock them onto a die body and chuck it up in the lathe. They work pretty good for that purpose, I doubt the new ones would have the same utility.

[JBinMN]

I just use all the different types.

Lee with the Oring, regular RCBS, Hornady, Dillon, Lyman, etc.for locking rings.

I have about 10 or so turret "rings" and a couple of lyman presses already set up with about 4 dies a piece & used lock rings of all different sorts to get them set & "stay set".

If one of the little allen screws was not easily reached to set the screw, I usually removed the die & ring, turned the ring over & then reset the die. Most times it made the screw easier to set.

I adapted to what I had to use. Between all of the different types/styles, I made things work.

If these new ones are the "cats meow" for some, great, but I still have a lot of extras of many kinds that I bought & am not going to buy any of these new styles with the special wrench & I do not have one of the Lee locking style presses ( Yet), but a buddy has one & I find it kind of a pain in the butt to dink with. YMMV of course.

( I like old vehicles before computer run ones, Zippo lighters or matches over Plastic lighters, a pen/pencil & a piece of paper/chunk of wood to do math, etc., so perhaps "the dinosaur in me" resists change... )

Good Luck to those who want the new stuff , but I am sticking to the stuff I already have.

[kenton]

I can't remember any rings with both an O-ring and locking clamp. The O-ring exerts an upwards force, pushing the ID threaded part upward and "jamming", adding friction to the threads and "locking" the assy. in place. The clamp type squeezes the nut against a body (OD thread). The O-ring type lock the die in the press and the clamp type lock the ring against the die. A clamp type ring acts like a bolt head, a solid stop, when the die/clamp is tightened in a press.That's the Reader's Digest (quickie) version.

When I started reloading, way pre-web, I used the lock rings that came with the dies. I read the instructions and didn't try to "retain" an adjustment every time I removed/replaced dies in my press. I checked and adjusted every time I installed a die...

If you want to see a lock ring with both an o-ring and locking clamp take a closer look the picture OP posted.

[Kenstone]

I’d just get the small Dillon ones and use a boxed end wrench I already have lots of vs some special tool to keep up with.

Yep, Dillon nuts, only I use 2 jammed/tightened together on each die, no wrench needed, just hand tighten the die into the press...done.
2 Dillon nuts under the powder thru expander and 2 risers

[rbuck351]

I don't use the old Lee type nuts as they are never the same setting after removing and reinstalling them. With a set screw or pinch bolt they can be set once, the nut locked in place and they don't need to be readjusted again. I don't use any tools to screw in the die. Finger tight never comes loose. If I end up with any of Lees new dies I will remove the O-ring and use the pinch bolt for a permanent adjustment. Won't need the cute little wrench.

[44magLeo]

The reason Lee is making this lock ring is the same reason they made the breech lock inserts with a lock ring. People didn't like the original devices and complained about them. To help stop the complaints they came up with new designs.
I have no issues with the original lock rings. The o ring holds the ring and die together just fine. On a turret or progressive press where room is at a minimum it may be different. I use single stage press's. Except for my Tru Line JR.
When I thread in a die, when the lock ring gets near the press I grip both the die and lock ring to snug it down.
When removing the die I hold both the die and lock ring for the initial loosening. When the lock ring comes clear of the press top, I just turn with the die.
This has worked just fine since this design came out.
I have used dies with both a set screw type lock and the split ring type lock. I use same technique to install and remove them.
I never used a wrench to snug in a die. Never had a die move with any type of lock ring.
Leo

[DonHowe]

To my mind, whatever "problem" the O-ring lock nut solves is offset by the difficulty (inability?) Of screwing a die in the same depth twice. Any advantage to the system, that I can see, would be when using removable turrets where the dies are set up once and left. I much prefer a solid lock which, once the die and lock ring are set up, provides the same solid stop every time.
But no, I do not need a wrench.