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Thread: C-More M26 Shotgun

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have tried a card wad but no difference. There is about 2cc of Farex under the ball as a cup and looking at the inside of the wad I can not see any sign of it cupping around the ball. This test was with the 690 ball that was too tight to push by hand. I expected to see wad damage.
    We cant get Red or Green Dot. According to the ADI powder equivalent chart Trailboss is with Bullseye between Red and Green Dot.
    I have Trailboss and Unique. The latter a bit faster than my WSF.
    I have read some use the slower SR4756 which is equivalent to our AP 100 but I dont have either ATM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Those wads still look like they are barely touched, that bore must be huge on that gun. What was the actual diameter of the balls from the .690" mold, and what alloy did you cast them with?


    With a ball of only 1 1/8 ounce, I think the faster the powder you can get, the better. I'm not sure if trailboss has much use in shotguns though. I've never tried WSF. Unique is worth a try. I'm seeing charges from 22 to 24 grains being safe with pretty much any primer in a federal gold medal hull.

    One trick to gain some diameter I've seen mentioned is to roll the ball between a couple of rattail files to knurl it. This only needs to be done around a small circumference of the ball. If you are not already doing so, load the balls sprue facing up to the crimp.

    I can't find any info on what thread the choke tube is. Take a picture of the choke tube, and measure the OD of the threads, and the distance from the base, to the start of the threads as best as you can. I can compare and see if they match an american thread like Remchoke, Winchoke, etc.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sorry, forgot to measure the ball.
    The choke is .810 across the threads and the mouth is .723
    I wrote to C-More about the chokes and they said it is their own and wont be making any others. In a pinch I will cut a couple of inches off and use the MansonClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	259240 choke install tools I have here to ream and thread for Win/Invector chokes. The thread on this is finer than the Invector
    Going to try these cheap Diana trap loads. Cut the fold crimp off put in 3.1 cc of Farex, pressed in the .690 RB and did a roll crimp.
    See what happens tomorrow.

    PS. Just went and measured a ball. Its .694
    One would think at that the wads would show more sign through that .723 hole.
    Last edited by Keith; 03-28-2020 at 02:13 AM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Blood Trail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    It is an 18 inch barrel. All made in the USA originally for the Military
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M26_Mo...Shotgun_System
    I thought you guys (Stateside) would know all about them
    Its 12 gauge with a modified choke but they must use their own thread as its a very fine one and I cant find a commercial choke to fit
    It will take Saiga mags and they dont seem to have feed problems.
    They dont make a 20 gge. Only this model for civilian use.
    However would this choke be OK for slugs as is before I chop the barrel and sweat on an adapter? I could try bought slug loads but really want to cast my own.
    Never heard of them and I served in the Marine Corps from 1997-2006. We used Benelli M4ís and Mossberg 590A1ís. Still do.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well might be getting somewhere.
    22, 23, and 24 of Unique give me these groups at 25 yds. A lot better than I was getting before. Need to try 22 and 23 again but now I have discovered my wad supply is low. Fed 12S3 for straightwall cases.
    Rung my LGS and no more available. He has WAA12L but as I understand they are for tapered hulls.
    I think I read Longbow puts a newspaper wad over the cup to hold the powder back. Should I do this or look for a better wad elsewhere.?
    Is the Claybuster 2118-12 OK for this. I need the same length bit in the middle but the shotcup can be smaller.
    Bit limited for wads here in OZ. This ball is the .678. The .694 I was using gave a good group but I discovered I dont have the mould so just ordered one. Someone must have given me a few balls.Click image for larger version. 

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    Just been talking to another gunshop. He has CB2100 wads that he says will do what I want. I am not familiar with them. Is he correct?
    Last edited by Keith; 03-31-2020 at 02:20 AM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    Well might be getting somewhere.
    22, 23, and 24 of Unique give me these groups at 25 yds. A lot better than I was getting before. Need to try 22 and 23 again but now I have discovered my wad supply is low. Fed 12S3 for straightwall cases.
    Rung my LGS and no more available. He has WAA12L but as I understand they are for tapered hulls.
    I think I read Longbow puts a newspaper wad over the cup to hold the powder back. Should I do this or look for a better wad elsewhere.?
    Is the Claybuster 2118-12 OK for this. I need the same length bit in the middle but the shotcup can be smaller.
    Bit limited for wads here in OZ. This ball is the .678. The .694 I was using gave a good group but I discovered I dont have the mould so just ordered one. Someone must have given me a few balls.Click image for larger version. 

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    Just been talking to another gunshop. He has CB2100 wads that he says will do what I want. I am not familiar with them. Is he correct?
    I would inspect those wads in person. I am under the impression all current Claybuster wads have ribs inside. They work great with shot, but do not fit slugs well. This is unfortunate, as this was not always the case. I used to use Claybuster's for slugs years ago, and they did not have ribs at that time. The WAA12L can work for you, even without newspaper with a flake powder like Unique. It may not be ideal, but I've loaded thousands of straight wall hulls with Winchester wads. The only problem there is that Winchester wad petals tend to be thinner than Federal. Not what you want from what I am seeing, but who knows. If you can get Downrange wads there, the DRF3 is a Federal 12S3 clone. The other Federal wads, 12S1 and 12S4 can work as well.

    If you go to a .735" ball, you can do away with the wad petals all together. 18 grains Unique with the full bore ball shoots about 1000 fps, and does not recoil bad at all. I'd slug your bore first, you may even need a bigger ball than that. If a full bore ball doesn't shoot good, nothing will.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks. I cant get Downrange wads here and in fact due to this Kung flu thing everything is getting hard to get.
    I started a thread to get info on CB wads and see what happens.

  8. #28
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    Keith: My standard Round Ball load is my standard Trap Load with a .662 ball and 1/4" felt wad instead of the shot. (20 gr of green dot) I only use Claybuster WAA12 Clones as that's all I have. I mostly use AA or STS hulls for these with a fold crimp loaded on my DL266. I don't think there is enough difference to worry about if using strait wall hulls as the gas seal still expands to fill the hull during firing.

    IMHO, there is more to be gained from barrel work than chasing loading minutia. The barrels I have that have been Vang Comped perform much better than strait cylinder bore barrels. My Browning A5 "Buck Special" barrel has a fixed IC choke .730>.715 and it shoots slugs and round balls very well. Point being,,, the barrel configuration is the key not the load.

    Ithaca found with their Deerslayer M37's that a little choke made slugs more accurate. Browning copied that idea in their barrels.

    I don't know if there are any Shotgun Gunsmiths that specialize in Barrel Mods in AUS, but I would have a look and see if that service is available to you. Otherwise http://vangcomp.com and ship it over here.

    Vang lengthens the forcing cone to 3", back bores the barrel to .745, and leaves 2" at the muzzle tapered back down to .730. Then ports the barrel to mitigate muzzle rise.

    Randy
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    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks Randy. Thats interesting. This has a 3 inch chamber but I have not checked the forcing cone.
    Not much information on these C-More guns around. I have no idea how to get the barrel out. One day with nothing to do I will start stripping it for a look see. As an aside I have a Steyr Scout Tactical Elite in .223. I have no idea how to remove the barrel in that either. Its had a few thousand through it as my wifes F class rifle and I would like to set the barrel back and rechamber.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Having just one choke available is bugging me. I want to use the Carlson Coyote choke I bought for the Boito for Buckshot loads.
    Bit the bullet , stripped it as far as I could, cut 1 1/2 inches off the muzzle, reamed and tapped for Invector chokes.
    The barrel seems to be held on by that screw in the front and a cap screw on top. The cap screw would loosen
    ]Click image for larger version. 

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    but that one on the front is solid. I did not want to overdo it in case I stripped the corners of the hex inside. Anyway I could still ream it with the receiver on.
    Woops I must have left the cursor in the middle.

    I tried to delete the last photo but cant. Its the Boito barrel not the C-More. I got the wrong one.
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  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
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    Got it back together.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Loaded some up with a roll crimp in a new hull. 20 grns Unique Fed 12S0 wad with 2 thick card wads and 4 felt wads in the shot cup for the final lot. This bought the height up. The earlier ones I only had 2 cards and 2 felts and trimmed the petals .1 inch and rolled. The roll went a fair way down in the hull before it trapped the ball. I thought too far so packed the wad more. Not sure how it shoots yet.
    The choke is a bit tighter than the IC. Its a Carlson Tactical Breecher but they dont give the specs. The 695 RB in the wad wont push through but the .678 will.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #32
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    Keith: that is a pretty vicious looking shotgun,, I'm surprised they let you have it?

    Your rounds look good, but not sure about the ball sticking out the end. On your gun it obviously won't make any difference

    You might try putting one of the Clear Plastic Overshot Cards on top of your ball which would give the roll crimp something to bottom out on sooner.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hey, they give us a hard time on appearance laws here.Trying to ban GelBlasters because they look like real guns.
    These C-Mores are ok here in Queensland but not in NSW. They are still classed as A along with .22,s and SxS shotguns etc. Yet the Adler Lever Action I had was also A when I bought it , then the greens winged that it was a "fast fire" weapon so it was reclassed as B along with centrefire rifles etc. We cant understand it at all.
    I guess you guys dont have much to do with the straight pull action. The Adler straight pull you pull the bolt back and spring return chambers the round. The C-More you have to manually pull it back and push it forward to chamber. The Adler is also banned in NSW the ACT and Canberra.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check