RotoMetals2Load DataRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply
Lee PrecisionWidenersInline FabricationReloading Everything
Titan Reloading Snyders Jerky
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: 1777 Charleville tumbler

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,293

    1777 Charleville tumbler

    I have an original 1777 Charleville. It was made in 1815, so it didn’t see any wartime service and is in good condition. What to note about it is how strong the springs are. No one with experience with these guns have ever experienced springs as strong.

    I have installed a shim on the tumbler to make the trigger pull shorter and crisper. The tumbler has three notches. Full cock, half cock(safety) and a third notch that is to stop the hammer. The problem is the sear doesn’t engage in the last notch. The hammer continues forward and contacts the side plate, damaging it.

    I did file a little on the sear, but don’t think the problem was caused by me, because there were already marks on the side plate from the hammer hitting it.

    Could the problem be geometry of the sear, that keeps it from engaging? Or maybe the overly strong spring that causes the tumbler to move too fast for the sear to in gage it?

    Thanks for all thoughts and advice.

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    19,362
    When fired, the sear should not engage any notches in the tumbler. The cock should rest on the lock plate.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,293
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    When fired, the sear should not engage any notches in the tumbler. The cock should rest on the lock plate.
    I wish mine were that simple, but there are three notches and when not stopping in the notch, it is eating a hole in the plate.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    3,783
    Think of the damage to the sear when it goes in that notch instead of hitting the plate. THen it will be a bigger problem.

    The plate is supposed to stop the hammer fall not a notch. Fix the plate is easier than the sear IMHO

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check