Titan ReloadingReloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyWideners
RepackboxRotoMetals2Inline FabricationLoad Data
Lee Precision
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 54

Thread: Alloy Temperature for Casting, and Keeping Molds Hot

  1. #21
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,448
    I happened to find and old bike chain sprocket in the shed left over from the kids. It fits perfectly across the hot plate and I lay the mold and ladle on it to heat up and this way I don't have to worry about hot spots from being in direct contact with the heating element.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,239
    Lot's of hints and I can only tell you what works for me. Most of my molds are Lee aluminum molds and I am rarely in a hurry so I only use one mold at a time. First, with a new mold I make sure every trace of machine oil is removed from the mold. Often start with Dawn and hot water, but also have used clean solvent (mineral spirits). I run the mold through a few "heat cycles" for a "break in" (I use a hot plate and heat the mold on high, allowing it to get as hot as it will, and then allow it to cool). Before each session I will more often than not spray the mold cavities with non chlorinated brake clean. I only use a plain dial thermometer and run my alloy between 690-725 degrees (for many years I didn't use a thermometer I just adjusted the temp by the appearance of the bullets;shiny, poor fill out, raise the heat. Frosty bullets lower the heat.). Iuse a hot plate on medium/high and don't hurry the pot or the mold. I use nothing in my molds, no smoke, pencil marks, nor commercial mold release. If I don't start getting keepers after four or five pours, I'll find out why and correct it. All the talk about cadence, mold temps and alloy temps is just about getting the right temperature balance of mold temp,alloy temp and cadence is just maintaining that balance...

    The hardest bullet I've had to cast was a 1 oz. 12 ga hollow base slug. But getting the right balance, they soon started dropping with no wrinkles, no voids and a decent finish...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,572
    I normally cast 725ish with the Lee pot. Watch the sprue, when it 'turns' frosty it should have a dimple unless you pour a huge puddle. Count from the pour to frosty, cut the sprue and see how it does. Pimple - pulling metal from the sprue. Divit - pulling metal from the bullet. Smear on the base - not waiting for the sprue to cool. For gang (4x or more) moulds, pour nearest the pivit bolt first - cools the quickest and more leverage on the sprue plate. Cast with ONE mould till you get it right. Hot mould AND sprue plate is a must. Last mould I got, vent lines were off (I think) smoking the blocks fixed the problem. Air has to come out of the mould or it expands and makes wrinkles. Got slight fining but that is not a problem. I've now changed to using a pencil to coat the sprue plate surface, just a drop of lube on the handle and pivit bolt. Pencil even removes lead smears from the plate.
    Whatever!

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,203
    I run a Lee 20# with pid. I heat the mold on top of the pot or a hot plate if I use two molds. Set the pid for 700 & cast when everything is hot. I have no issue with 4 or 6cav molds. When they start getting too hot & bullets are really frosty, its about time to add back my spurs & add another 2-4# of ingots. I do like to warm the ingots on the hot plate as well.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    2,085
    I started casting with Dad's SAECO pot and molds in the 1970s. When I was on my own I bought Lee molds and the 10lb bottom pour. I generally cast with 2 molds at a time, except with smaller molds. I didn't have a temp thermometer until I found one for cheap. Even then, I always looked at the sprue to test my temp. When casting just one mold and going for pace, I would blow on the sprue and then knock the plate open. Still, for years I cast only 2 molds, Lee 356-125 RN and Lee 452-230 RN. I would cast 100 of each (5lbs) and refill the pot. I would then lube/size 100 boolits and load them.

    By the time I was done loading, the pot was up to temp and so were the molds as I set them on top of the pot to keep warm. Oh, and I cut a tin can lid to cover the pot to aid in heating up the lead and give me a space to rest the molds. Back then, I was shooting 1250 rounds a week. In later years, I began casting a Lee 401-180 TC and the 356-125 RN, the latter of which has cast more than 500k since 1985. I've had to rebuild it twice. I have many more molds, probably more in 452 than anything, and those are cast when supplies are depleted.

    The Lee 356-102 has seen much more use of late as I bought it for shooting .380 ACP, but have recently been using it for 9mm through an AR15 in 9mm. Less lead, shoots very fast through the 16" bbl, and tin cans don't care how heavy the boolit is, they only know they've been hit. The Lee 356-95 RF sees probably more 38 SP loads than .380, but is a great training boolit for young shooters with a revolver.

    The greatest advice I ever read was an article from 30 years ago about a guy in Idaho who hand poured from a 40lb propane plumber's pot. The larger volume kept temp more constant, the cadence was based upon the sprue frosting over, and patience. The writer said he had placed a barreled action of a 30-06 through a trash can filled with concrete, you can't get more stable than that. 5 shot groups, 1 ragged hole, can't get more consistent than that. I wish I had that article today, maybe it's on the net, but that inspired my casting, and later to cast for 30-06 and .308 Win.

    Of late, I cast a lot of .225-62-RNPB from a 3 hole NOE mold, designed by a member here. Powder coated I'm getting 2250 from a Mini 14 and 2450 from a 24" single shot. The AR15 not so much, my alloy needs a little more hardness. Still, it's a fun shooter and cheap to cast for. I might be able to make the AR shoot better with a pistol length gas port and a 20" bbl. We shall see. Still, that NOE mold has to be cast like an old Hensley and Gibbs 10 holer, by pouring all holes continuously with one big sprue and watching it frost before opening. That mold cast perfect boolits right out of the box.
    Common sense Gun Safety . . .

    Is taught at the Range!

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    16
    I had problems keeping the mold temp up, especially with alum molds, and bought a hot plate. I put a 1/8" steel plate over the coils and set it at a medium setting. Setting the mold on the plate while you work the other mold greatly helps in keeping the mold temp up, especially when you have a cool breeze blowing.
    I get best results at lead temp over 800 degrees, but others have good luck with lesser lead temp.
    I hope this helps,
    Joe S

  7. #27
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87
    I cast some bullets today, employing lots of advice and tips from here and elesewhere. It worked out well.

    I ran my pot a lot hotter, I super cleaned the mold and smoked both cavities, and I sped up my pace a lot.

    I cranked the temperature up to 850 once I got the old, not-quite bullets melted down. That helped a lot. It took only a few pours before I started getting well-filled, matte-looking bullets.

    I wound up turning it down to 800 after a while, and still got good bullets.

    I worked on my pace, and was actually able to open the sprue plate with just finger pressure (ok, very firm finger pressure) most of the time. I still had some cases of the bullets not wanting to release from the mold, but that wasn’t too big a deal.

    I also found out that I needed to pay attention to the tension on the sprue plate screw, because I had a couple of pours where the plate was obviously too loose. And once I rushed and didn’t make sure the plate was closed before I started the pour... Yeah, that was messy, but I got it taken care of.

    I need to work on getting the mold lined up perfectly under the spout. And I need to research the “Lee bottom pour drip fix,” because my pot started dripping a lot. It’s pretty clear that it’s because something got into the spout from the inside, and I’ll have to completely empty it and clean the spout.

    But success!!!!.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    3,028
    Everything here is good advice. I'll only add a few things.

    1) I cast from matching size molds. That way the height of the spout from the sprue plate is the same. Accurate & N.O.E. 4cav blocks are the same height. Lyman 4cav & RCBS 2cav are the same height, or too close to matter.

    2) I use a small 4" fan I bought at a Beauty supply store to blow air across my molds to cool the sprues when I Cast from 2 molds.
    I sometimes cast from 3-4 molds at a time. No fan is needed that way.

    3) I too drop the sprues back into the pot after every cycle of 2,3,4 mold pours.
    4) I cover the top 3/4 of my pot with an ingot mold.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

    SASS #375 Life

  9. #29
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,448
    I am casting with a Lyman ladle out of a 5.5" sauce pan on a hot plate turned all the way up. I have no idea of the temp as I don't yet have a thermometer. I do preheat both the mold and the ladle on the plate and then drop the Ladle into the lead to finish heating. I then also drop the end of the mold into the molten lead until it also comes out clean. Once at that point I start casting. I then try to control mold temp by my tempo. If wrinkled I speed up and one frosted I slow the pace down between pours.

  10. #30
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    800° ---- WOW I only go that high when casting pure. Like previously mentioned I do most of my casting between 690 and 710°

    Add 2% tin (pewter) to COWW. preheat the mold (s) to 400 - 450 °

    watch the sprue, when it changes color it's cool enough to cut.

    with a bottom pour pot I "pressure cast" my first few mold fulls (hold he mold snug aginst the pot spout and fill the cavities, make sure you end up with a fair puddle on top to assure proper fill out.

    Don't OVER SMOKE your molds

    I smelt then cast my pewter into 1/2 oz boolits and if everything is working right but I still don't get good fill out I toss one in the pot and mix it in.

  11. #31
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87
    I used the short kitchen matches, and only got enough burn time to see a little soot deposited on the molds. I was worried that I wasn't getting enough soot, but it apparently worked OK.

    I kinda don't have a way to measure the mold temperature. Do those "non-contact infrared thermometers" work with aluminum molds? They're available and not too terribly expensive.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by OTShooter View Post
    I cast some bullets today, employing lots of advice and tips from here and elesewhere. It worked out well.

    I ran my pot a lot hotter, I super cleaned the mold and smoked both cavities, and I sped up my pace a lot.

    I cranked the temperature up to 850 once I got the old, not-quite bullets melted down. That helped a lot. It took only a few pours before I started getting well-filled, matte-looking bullets.

    I wound up turning it down to 800 after a while, and still got good bullets.

    I worked on my pace, and was actually able to open the sprue plate with just finger pressure (ok, very firm finger pressure) most of the time. I still had some cases of the bullets not wanting to release from the mold, but that wasn’t too big a deal.

    I also found out that I needed to pay attention to the tension on the sprue plate screw, because I had a couple of pours where the plate was obviously too loose. And once I rushed and didn’t make sure the plate was closed before I started the pour... Yeah, that was messy, but I got it taken care of.

    I need to work on getting the mold lined up perfectly under the spout. And I need to research the “Lee bottom pour drip fix,” because my pot started dripping a lot. It’s pretty clear that it’s because something got into the spout from the inside, and I’ll have to completely empty it and clean the spout.

    But success!!!!.
    The high temperatures always result in oxidation for me, in the form of yellow powder. Lead is mostly inert, but that lead oxide is extremely toxic, don't touch it. It's not the end of the world, but likely the cause of the dripping pot. I've got three Lee pots, and must have got lucky, because all three seal up good unless something like dirt or lead oxidation gets in there. All I do in that case is take a screw driver, and while pushing down slightly, twist the valve in and out a couple times. this is usually all it takes. If not, an allen wrench short end up the spout will clear it out. Use gloves when you do this.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
    Posts
    1,309
    I preheat on a solid top hot late set just below medium and cast at about 700 to 725 with range scrap and a Lee six cavity 452-200 SWC mold. Usually get good bullets by second pour. While waiting the the sprue to harden I add the previous sprue back into the pot. I set the mold guide for about a 1/2 inch drop. You will have to fiddle with things a bit to find the sweet spot on pour temp and hot plate. Usually fill, cut sprue when solid and refill. If mold is getting too hot will let it sit open for five or ten seconds and/or slightly lower pot temp. The issues you are having are all part of the learning process and we've all been there.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    3,028
    I've used an inverted ingot mold to cover my electric pot ever since I got an electric pot. Leave only enough room for the thermometer to fit down. Have a long shafted one and a jig for it so it doesn't come in contact with the bottom or sides of the pot.
    Every 2nd cycle of the 3-4 molds I'm using I drop the sprues back in the pot. The temp. Only goes down about 10degrees. The small bit of cold alloy seems to keep the pot temp from climbing as the alloy level goes down. And it extends casting time.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

    SASS #375 Life

  15. #35
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87
    I've had problems logging on to the forums since last weekend, but it's fixed now.

    Here's a picture of the bullets I cast Sunday:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Boolits.jpg 
Views:	29 
Size:	184.3 KB 
ID:	249968

    I seem to have got the temperature right, maybe even a little too hot. I wound up casting for about 90 minutes and got over 120 bullets cast (not counting the culled not-quite-perfect ones). These are from Lee's 452-228-1R 2-cavity mold.

    I had a couple of glitches, like once not closing the sprue plate before I stuck the mold under the pour spout... Not fun but fixable. And I got some small bit of lead stuck on the mold between the halves, which gave me some flash on a couple of bullets before I figured it out and cleared the stuff off.

    My only real problem was that, as I went along casting, my Lee casting pot dripped more and more. It's like something got caught inside the spout, keeping the valve from closing. I have to get it hot and completely drain it, then take apart the pour valve to clean it, but that will wait for another - cooler! - day.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,448
    OTShooter, nice post and thanks for the PIX. Seems many people have been having problems logging on. Myself I haven't had any of that.

    Bullets look nice from the picture. I too am thinking of getting that mold and after seeing yours it has reinforced that notion.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    North West Ohio
    Posts
    688
    Looks like you are in there!The bullets look good.You will now notice a few thing in the next casting sessions down the road.You will hit the prue hole every time lol.As you get everything going better things will chnage a bit.for one you mold will break in and cast better as you go.When your speed and temp it right you will notice the bullets drop out great and there will be very few bad ones.Likely as things come together you will get some frosty bullets.This means you are getting faster..all said and done evein when you get better at casting the casting gods will not be nice on some days or with a new mold.It is realy good that lead is able to be remelted.Oh Yea the frosty bullets are good much easyer problem to fix

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    678
    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    ANother method which works well is to use an electric hot plate, placing a piece of ceramic tile over the coil to spread the heat uniformly. Start with the "medium" setting on the hot plate and pre-heat your mold on it. Experiment with the setting until you get good bullets almost immediately. I cast outdoors in a screened porch to be assured of good ventilation, so the hotplate setting needs to be adjusted seasonally, as you need more in winter when wearing the snowmobile suit than in summer in a T-shirt. I use a 450-degree F. Tempilstik crayon to mark the mold blocks and calibrate the hotplate setting.
    I like the Tempilstik idea... Give my regards to Ed.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    678
    Quote Originally Posted by kmw1954 View Post
    I am casting with a Lyman ladle out of a 5.5" sauce pan on a hot plate turned all the way up. I have no idea of the temp as I don't yet have a thermometer. I do preheat both the mold and the ladle on the plate and then drop the Ladle into the lead to finish heating. I then also drop the end of the mold into the molten lead until it also comes out clean. Once at that point I start casting. I then try to control mold temp by my tempo. If wrinkled I speed up and one frosted I slow the pace down between pours.
    This fellow is casting "Patriot-style". KUDOS... a skill set which many casters may be prudent to pay attention to (ie: EMP blackout stuff).

    PS: I would have called it 'hillbilly' - but this guy is from WI! Catskill Mtn. (NY) families are cut from the same cloth...

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    kens's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    coastal Ga
    Posts
    1,133
    I looked for a reference to the type of lead alloy you were casting, I didnt find any, in reference to frosty bullets.
    If dead soft lead, it doesn't get frosted look until you are really really hot both mold and alloy pot.
    If you casting antimony lead such as wheelweights, it will look frosty very easily, and my own expereince, it cannot be avoided.
    Casting WW and frosty, I dont bother to worry about frosty, it doesnt matter to me.
    Adding tin does help, even as little as .5% or 1% by weight helps mold fill out, and shiny prettyness

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check