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Thread: Need help with my group buy NOE 452-277-RF

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Need help with my group buy NOE 452-277-RF

    I finally got around to casting with it for the first time today. I didn’t clean the mold before I casted today which I’m guessing is why all my boolits have little dimples all over them? I was thinking my alloy was too hot so I turned down my lee 4-20 pot to the point the boolits weren’t filling out and the alloy still looked “frosted and dimpled” so I figured it was either my 50/50 alloy with 2% pewter mix that gave it the frosted color appearance or maybe NOE sprayed it with lube or grease that I didn’t clean off? I also see there is a couple of chips and dings in the gas check area...is this going to affect my accuracy?



    Getting to my mold. When I removed the mounting screws one screw after a few turns started coming out hard. It had a clump or black threads in it I removed. I reinstalled it and it seemed fine. I rested my mold on top of my casing pot for a couple of minutes to warm it up and started casting. I apparently didn’t get it hot enough since my boolits were wrinkled and not completely filled in. I was starting figuring out the mold and getting used to it after about a good 100 dumps. It was kinda finicky at first one of the boolits kept sticking to the side of the mold and the HP was tearing out in the process. Also the boolits were sticking to the HP pins till I smoked them and the mold heated up a little more. It seemed if I dumped them faster the boolits were releasing fine. Well after I thought all was good. All of a sudden the mold locked together like it was welded shut. I literally had the force it apart. I figured I got some lead in it somewhere. Nope, the (male)pins that mate into female machined area in the opposite side of the mold seized together. I quit casting, lubed the pins...no luck. I still had to force the mold apart. I loosened the HP screws and handle screws thinking I needed to adjust them. Nope. After the mold cooled down a little it would start to “snap” together with less tension. I could see the mold ricking back and forth in the lack pins. It’s like the pins swelled? It was tolerable enough that I was able to start casting again this happened two more times and I finally got frustrated and quit I took the mold completely apart cleaned and lubed it there was no lead anywhere. In the picture I showed you I took it completely apart in the mold snaps together and makes a loud snapping noise when pushed together with force and you cannot pull the part with your hands you have to put it in the handles to force it apart can someone please enlighten me what’s going on and what happened. In the picture I showed you I took it completely apart in the mold snaps together and makes a loud snapping noise and you cannot pull the part with your hands you have to put it in the handles to force it apart can someone please enlighten me what’s going on and what happened? I did after several attempts to adjust and lube the mold during my casing session I finally got my 10 pounds of alloy through it.


    This the mold after I cleaned it...it will not come apart until I screw it together in my mold handles. It snaps together with a little force now. It dose not seemed warped but it’s like the holes don’t line up with the pins perfect and have to be pressed in place and then they are locked in place. I felt I was almost going to brake my handles during my casting session to force it together to hear a snap when it shut. I could squeeze it together with my gloves on as well. I could see both sides teetering in the middle on the mold pin area before snapping together.





    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-06-2019 at 04:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Well I got the mold to open and close gently again. I called NOE and was told to clean out the female end of the mold with a burr remover...a chamfer tool for brass casings along with some sandpaper on the inside. I had to use sandpaper rolled up in a little tube after the chain for tool and worked it back-and-forth. It now shuts nice and smooth again.

  3. #3
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    What are you going to shoot those in? Good looking book it’s.
    You never know how you rank amongst men 'til you have seen what will break another man.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluejay75 View Post
    What are you going to shoot those in? Good looking book it’s.
    Ruger American 450 BM. Figured I’d start out with 50/50 alloy since it seems like it’s the norm around here for hunting. My mold release spray “pimpled” up my boolits. Im sure PCing will fill in the voids and I’ll be fine using these. First time using the mold so I know I have to get use to pouring with it. I had the rear boolit stick and tear the HP for a while then the front one along with the pins sticking to the HPs on and off till I got the rhythm down....going faster, a quicker lead flow, and a quicker release of the mold with a harder jerking of it open...and then they both fell. It sure goes quicker than my Lyman devastator even if I pour one cavity at a time...and very little finning around the HP area at times VS every one on my Lyman. I’ll try it with both my alloy and mold really hot again without and release spray today if I get a chance and see if I and they do better.

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    i noticed some Finning.... have you cast again with the mould sense the sand paper job? also remember that brass moulds act a bit different then Alum moulds.. i am sure this isnt your first brass mould, but just reminding. i dont worry too much about frosty.. but I do worry about fins, and strong lines where the mould comes together... surely some good adjustment is in order with a strong light behind the mould...
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  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    It is my First brass mold I’ve tried . I’m green yet. I have one other brass mold from MP I haven’t tried yet . I also have a Lyman devastator mold, and three or four lees. Third year of casting so I’m still learning.

    I cleaned it up and recasted today. The mold caught a burr again towards the end of of the session again today so I had to grab the mold to hear it “snap” close and cast or I would get finning. I’ll have to take it apart, clean it, and sand paper out what ever burr enter it again. I had some finning yesterday because I took an act of God to close the mold with the burr that developed in the female hole where it closes together. I see in my close up photo I attached a “finning line” if you would call it where the mold haves go together. I can see little bumps where the mold is machined to lock the halves together. Is this common to see on my boolits? You can see the little holes in my mold pic above.

    Today’s 10 lb batch without any smoking or releasing spray.



    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-07-2019 at 02:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    SNIP...

    I see in my close up photo I attached a “finning line” if you would call it where the mold haves go together. I can see little bumps where the mold is machined to lock the halves together. Is this common to see on my boolits? You can see the little holes in my mold pic above.
    It appears you have boolit alloy "tinned" onto your brass mold cavities.
    You need to remove the alloy from the "tinned" areas, Then I would strongly recommend getting a patina on the brass by heat cycling the mold halves or other procedure. There is lots of info in this thread.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Patina-Recipe

    FYI, I remove "tinned" alloy by getting the mold up to operating temperature (350 to 400), and then use a pointy bamboo skewer to scratch/scrap it off...adding a tiny bit of pure beeswax helps a lot. Be sure to clean them up real well, before trying to apply a patina.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    What a pain. It did have little specs of lead deposits in the corners of the mold which you refer to as tinning. I heated it up in the oven and cleaned it off with a wooden ruler and a brass brush. I’m learning brass molds are high maintenance. After four tries I cleaned off the burr inside where the two halves seal together....again. Guess I’m use to my Lyman and cheap Lee’s...just heat up and pour.

    I have patinaed brass before using vinegar and salt. I might give it a try.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-07-2019 at 05:56 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I’ve heat cycled both my brass molds I own today. Here’s after three cycles. You can see the new, unused mold still looks like brand new yet.





    I heat cycled it again with the cavities open and it started to darken the brass a little.

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    I have heat cycled my brass molds in my homemade mold preheat oven (Hot plate with steel coffee can cover).
    Oxidation is what's happening (keyword oxygen).
    So what I do, besides not having the mold halves together, I lift the can off periodically to allow a rush of fresh air onto the mold, then recover.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  11. #11
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    I always cleaned and heat cycled my noe brass molds, only problems occurred when I overheated my mold.
    It would be hard to close and open sticking, slowed my cadence down cooled the mold down hard closing and opening went away.
    I only spray graphite in a sticky mold, brush out excess when dry. Polish pins for sticky HPs. I am a new caster also, I always take the approach less is better when working with new molds as I always second guess myself, I don't want to screw up a new mold. I have never had any problems with my NOE molds, had a couple of sticky Lees that the graphite fixed.

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