80% AR lower tips?

[Texas by God]

That’s a router for milling out the 15% then the drill press for the last 5%. The jig is the Gen 2 version mentioned in the first post. It works very well. I’ll post some more later.

[ScrapMetal]

That’s a router for milling out the 15% then the drill press for the last 5%. The jig is the Gen 2 version mentioned in the first post. It works very well. I’ll post some more later.

That does look much nicer than the jigs I've seen. I'll be looking forward to seeing your finished lower.

-Ron

[Texas by God]

I need to do a little deburring but overall I think it's ok. A lower parts kit will tell me soon enough.

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[cwtebay]

Looks a darn sight better than my first attempt!!!

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[ScrapMetal]

Looks a darn sight better than my first attempt!!!

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I'll second that. Nice job.

-Ron

[Texas by God]

Thanks, guys. This jig set up is almost idiot proof but I'm a veteran decorated idiot so I managed to scare myself a time or two. But it turned out well so on to the black one next. I'll assemble the FDE one first, though to see if everything is everything.

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[lksmith]

Thanks, guys. This jig set up is almost idiot proof but I'm a veteran decorated idiot so I managed to scare myself a time or two. But it turned out well so on to the black one next. I'll assemble the FDE one first, though to see if everything is everything.

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Yeah, first one I did, i went too deep with the router and ruined the lower, but I've successfully done about 5 so far (AR15, AR9, AR10 Aluminum, AR10 Polymer). I actually took advantage of the free lower offer to get the AR9 lower, that is a fun toy for sure! Also, now that I have the lowers, I can piecemeal the parts to build my daughter a hunting rifle by the time she's old enough.
The one thing where I disagree with the instructions on, is once you get to the "3rd cutout" on the jig top plate that acts as a depth gauge, start fitting the trigger. I have found more often than not, if I follow the instructions exactly it isn't deep enough for full movement of the selector.

[lksmith]

I need to do a little deburring but overall I think it's ok. A lower parts kit will tell me soon enough.

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I got some sanding "fingers" from harbor freight to use on my oscillating tool to clean up the sidewalls. on my that is the only part that doesn't turn out pretty, although totally functional. just haven't taken the time to try it yet.

[Texas by God]

I only had to scrape the right selector switch hole a titch and it's done. Well, except for sights.

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[ScrapMetal]

Nice looking rifle. I have to warn you though, now that you've become an expert at %80 lowers, you'll start thinking things like, "Hmm, I can pick up a .224 Valkyrie upper cheap, and that Beowulf might be kind of fun, and why not a 10mm, and..., and..., etc.

It's a sickness I tell you.

-Ron

[Texas by God]

It's just another symptom of the disease, Ron.

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[Texas by God]

I thought I'd done something wrong because it wasn't working right. 3 in 1 oil bailed me out and it's running fine now.
So I'm starting the black one......

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[cwtebay]

I find the more I do any sort of metal cutting, the more oil I use. And the more oil I use, the more I appreciate good cutting oil from junk. I used lard on recommendation for aluminum. I built my wife's with some whale oil I had aquired - worked awesome, but not sure that's a super viable option.

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[ScrapMetal]

When cutting aluminum I use WD-40 for cutting fluid. It works very well but be sure you have sufficient ventilation as burning WD-40 probably isn't something you want to breath too much of.

Also, make sure you have good chip removal. I've used a vacuum attachment to pull the chips out of the cut. If you don't clear the chips they will bet pulled into the drill bit/end mill and end up making your cut look rough.

FWIW

-Ron

[Texas by God]

The vacuum attachment works well. I used wd-40 on some cuts and diesel on some cuts and they worked the same.

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[lefty o]

thats definately not terrible for a first try. have seen some that look like they were cut out with a dull chainsaw.

[drac0nic]

My advice having used a couple of the drill press jigs is get a pack of the 1/8 bits and change out your bits fairly constantly. I use the drill press stops in conjunction with the table height to set the depth. It's kind of hard to explain. Also, my next one will probably be done with drill stops as well which I haven't done yet.

As a question I usually go from 1/8 to 3/8 bits with my jig. Does anyone just use a large drill and do the centers only then mill away the rest?

[Texas by God]

You start in the pilot hole and mill in small circles a fraction at a time. The ersatz shop vac connection is nice, huh? It works, though.

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[cheese1566]

I am currently debating the same jig you are using, but also leaning towards the 5d tactical jig.

Did you get the optional side plate for helping to drill the pivot pin holes? Or just drilling through the side plates?

How is the end mill holding up?

[Texas by God]

The pivot / takedown pin holes are factory drilled. I just secure it on its sides to drill the selector, hammer and trigger holes. I've seen a bolt on alignment tool to use if you're using a portable drill. The end mill is still sharp- I'm tempted to go faster but I ask myself why?

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