Nitrile Gloves Question

[OTShooter]

All the instructions I've seen for handling coated bullets prior to curing call for "blue nitrile gloves."

Since nitrile gloves can be pretty much any color, is there a specific blue shade that works while others don't?

I wind up with four or five nitrile gloves in my pocket at the end of most work days. They aren's considered clean anymore, so I have no shortage of gloves to use for whatever purposes. But our gloves are a darker blue than the color in most photos of "blue nitrile gloves."

So is it the light blue Walgreens type of glove that "is the only thing," or is it that nitrile, because of its properties, is the glove material of choice? Or am I going to have to do my own comparisons to find out?

[Conditor22]

Any will work. Just pinch some PC before you start getting a thin coating of PC on the gloves and your good to go.

[OTShooter]

I kinda thought that getting the PC powder on gloves was unavoidable.

Thanks for the clarification!

[Conditor22]

Get PC on the grip point before you start makes life easier -- PC already on the glove won't take PC off the boolit

[Dragonheart]

I don't use gloves to pick up and stand my bullets because for me self locking stainless tweezers work better and faster, but younger hands definitely work better than mine. I do use nitrile gloves for other things, especially when working with chemicals, so I want a glove that will last and not tear so easy that I go through a half dozen with each use. I use these 8 mil gloves I get from Amazon. "GLOVEWORKS HD Industrial Green Nitrile Gloves - 8 mil, Latex Free, Powder Free, Diamond Texture, Disposable, Heavy Duty, Xlarge, GWGN48100-BX, Box of 100"

[robg]

I use the blue one because petrol/gas etc doesn't melt them ,as I tumble lube I don't get lube on my fingers that's a swine to get off.

[fredj338]

Color of the glove wont matter but I find large forceps faster, like using chopsticks but easier. Using a jig is where it is at. Empty plastic cartridge trays glued or melted together. Drop the bullets in & then turn them over onto a baking pan or wire basket. I can stand up 150 in about 13min, just about my baking time for the previous batch.

[Winger Ed.]

Our local gas station had plain tan medical gloves you could use on the Diesel pump.
I'd grab one or two of them when I was doing sizing/lubing.
Even those worked fine for me.

[fcvan]

I made a jig for spacing boolits from a piece of florescent light diffuser panel with 1/2" squares. One panel can be made into many trays. I shake and bake with ASBBs which are then dumper onto a cookie baking sheet. I then roll the boolits side to side and front to back. The boolits still maintain a charge so it picks up powder lost from dumping and evens out the coating. I use forceps to transfer to the difuser tray and then carry the loaded trays carefully so as to not disturb the boolits. After placing the trays onto the oven rack I carefully remove the difuser from the casting tray and close the oven.

I never touch the boolits from casting to coating so this info has little to do with nitrile gloves. I buy the cheap ones from Harbor Freight and I don't care about color. I have them but don't use them when casting or coating. A long time ago when I got into casting 2 calibers at one setting, I started picking up the boolits with a spoon, rolled them on the spoon and visually inspected before placing them into the respective receptacle for each caliber. The sprues go immediately back in the pot and I then grab the next mold. When I am mass producing for just one caliber I just adjust my cadence, inspect the boolits, and then blow on the cooling sprue for the previous cast until it is visibly cool. This is mostly for smaller boolits such as a 3 cavity NOE 224-62-RNPB designed by a Cast Boolits member. I can crank about 100 in 10 minutes. PCd they are currently working in a Mini-14, a H&R 1871 .223, but not so great in the AR-15.

I think I need to sweeten up-harden up my alloy for the greater pressure to operate the gas system. After 2250 fps, the groups started opening up and if I pushed the velocity it went south. Currently I have really been enjoying the H&R because I am getting 1 MOA at 2450fps with IMR4227. The Mini-14 is about 1.5 MOA at 2250fps from it's 16" barrel. It is actually a 14" barrel with a fronts sight/muzzle brake welded and pinned as it started out life as a SWAT weapon in the mid 1970s from southern CA. It is still wood stocked but parkerized, very cool, even cooler with the folding stock I bought a year before CA banned folders. Ugh, so glad I retired from CA and moved back to America. l only had it attached for a year and only installed the folder when I went to shoot in OR.

I used it with the wood stock on a run and gun with our 'SWAT' team once and on our steel plates as the lead doesn't tear them up. Let's just say I was 'competitive' with our AR-15 shooters as I was a negotiator and only the tactical guys were certified on the AR and us negotiators in the Ruger, our primary weapon. Oh well, enough of a rant.

[fredj338]

You do know that handling lead is not toxic right?

[fcvan]

You do know that handling lead is not toxic right?

Lead is toxic in hyper-sonic sub-cranial injections. I would not deliberately expose myself to lead oxides while smelting, I never touch the stuff while casting or loading, lube or PCd. While shooting, I am more concerned about methane from a previous meal than the smell of burning nitrocellulose. I try not to eat chili before shooting to avoid the random flier caused by olfactory reaction or the possible ignition of volatile gas.

[Traffer]

Just a note on the Harbor freight nitrile gloves: I use them for mechanic work. For some odd reason the 7 mil gloves are much tougher and stronger than the 9 mil. Just thought I would throw that out there.

[fcvan]

Good to know. I look at the price tag more than the posted thickness. It matters, but a good barrier when treating bad wounds is more important than how thick it is. Retired LEO, Active Patriot. I still keep my basic medical kit from 'SWAT' training. In both vehicles, in my range bag, in my bug-out bag.

[crackers]

Or... outside of the glove box ... shake with no BBs and dump to a kitchen sifter, to the parchment in an oven sheet and be done in no time.

[kevin c]

Just a note on the Harbor freight nitrile gloves: I use them for mechanic work. For some odd reason the 7 mil gloves are much tougher and stronger than the 9 mil. Just thought I would throw that out there.

For me, the HF blue 7 mil gloves work better than the black 9 mil gloves. I like them snug for better handling, but the 9 mil gloves are too thick to stretch easily when that tight, so I'll trade the extra protection for better dexterity.

[farmerjim]

I prefer latex to nitrile gloves unless I am working with solvents that will destroy the latex ones. I use about 15 boxes of latex to one box of nitrile a year.

[OTShooter]

Since I work in health care, non-latex is what I get at work, so I'm used to nitrile. And with as much issues as I have with overexposure to harsh soaps and "antibacterial" sanitizing agents, I am going to stay away from latex.

But it's good to know that there are a variety of options for getting this done.

[BrutalAB]

I always assumed the color was mentioned because of common association. As in: if i see blue disposable gloves, i assume they are nitrile. Likewise if i want disposable nitrile gloves i assume they will be blue.

Side note, ive used latex, nitrile and bare hands. I dont recall a difference in performance between the 3. They were all much faster than tweezers. Though i could make tighter arrangements with tweezers.... it lead to my tray exceeding the holding capacity of the racks. Two full trays of coated uncured boolits in the bottom of my toaster oven, me and my floor. I was done for the day after that.
Learn from my mistake, don't push your trays capacity.