Managing static cling

[WheelgunConvert]

Please offer your tips on reducing the static cling of smokeless powder to plastic items like funnels, hoppers, and dippers.

I’ve recently started working with TCM powder and it is exceptionally susceptible to static adhesion.

Thank You!
Bevan

[Winger Ed.]

I'd seen wrist bands that had a wire on them that went to a ground.
You used to see them all the time being used by people working on electronics.

Dig around, they may still be out there, or you could make one yourself fairly easily.
No big promises, but that might work.

[Rcmaveric]

Wiping things down with a dryer sheet helps me.

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[Greg S]

That laundry anti static spray. Clean the item, dry it, spray it down and allow to air dry.

[tobywan45]

Also what works for me is to wash the items with dish soap like Dawn ,not rinse let air dry

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[Sig556r]

Used dryer sheets works better for me than new ones...not sure why but maybe the lint?

[WheelgunConvert]

The used dryer softener sheet works!

Now I have the other lost sock in my loading cave too.

Neat trick. Thank You!

Bevan

[Traffer]

I bought a box of those anti-moisture packets that you find in medicine bottles. Got them from China off eBay. I put a handful in the 1lb jar of HS-6 that I have. Unfortunately since I am new to reloading and only have used this one powder, I can't say whether it works or not...nothing to compare it too. (I also use it in my stored powder for PC. Again can't say what effect it has. But it is an idea for you.

[Eddie17]

I found in the past with powder clinging to new Reloading items to run the powder over the item multiple times. No reloading, just past the powder thru or into tool see how it works an repeat.
Time spent learning the tool, an static seems to be gone in the process.
My 2 cents!

[georgerkahn]

A lot for me depends upon the powder. E.g., Bullseye is rarely and barely a problem, but a powder like Trail Boss is a "static nightmare". My two attempts at a solution, both helpful but NOT 100% is to use the ubiquitous dryer inserts, and, the fabrication of a good electrical ground. I took a long length of bare 20 gauge copper, attaching one end to the GROUND terminal -- the round prong, as opposed to either flat on a male 3-prong plug, plugged into a 110V outlet. I then mechanically attached the copper wire to my Dillon 550b's frame vis a drilled/tapped 6-32 screw with a brass screw holding it, and then dropping the wire's end thru the hole in powder measure cap so it goes pretty much to the bottom of powder measure. As I wrote, it's not a "cure" -- 'specially with Trail Boss -- but it is an awesome improvement than without either. Good luck! If YOU learn of a real 100% solution... kindly let me know it?
geo
Funnel edit -- after hitting "post" I remembered I wished to add, too, that I found the METAL powder funnels work a zillion times better re static. I have those made by Satern, the sad part being they're rather costly. Now, I believe, other manufacturers have universal sized ones, with cleverly designed swappable by caliber bases -- the Satern's come in but one (albeit costly) size for each -- I think I may have seven of them.
g

[shaune509]

If your wall plugs are wired properly [ie tested] to a confirmed 3 wire breaker panel the cover screw is bonded to the safety [green/bare] wire, no need to wire under the cover. Makes the static bond wire idea a little simpler.
Shaune509

[georgerkahn]

shaune509 -- Great point hooking wire to center plate screw, and I had thought of that. In fact, my outlet covers are stainless steel; the boxes are metal; and are all wired with 12 gauges Romex with ground wire both to the box and the receptacle. However, in my case -- with a bum leg -- it would be a bit of a challenge to add the wire under cover plate screw. Instead, it seemed a lot easier for me to use the ground plug -- the bottom round prong in plug photo here attached -- which also enables its easy removal -- just unplug -- for sweeping area, etc.
geo