A taller front sight is the best answer in my opinion.
With an 8” gun a partridge style.
Three44s
A taller front sight is the best answer in my opinion.
With an 8” gun a partridge style.
Three44s
Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207
“There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”
While all responses are wonderful information. As cheap as it is and as easy as it is to do and can be done by the individual owning the said gun why not change out the rear blade to a lower one. The .126" should do it.
The 6 o'clock hold is a target shooters sight picture with the black bull balanced on top of the front sight. A field shooter wants the bullet to slide over the top of the front sight.
Bullet weight as speed to affect the point of impact. Smth and Wesson sells lower rear sight blades or at least they did a few years ago when I bought one.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
There is this place called "Brownell's" Which sells all kinds of Gun parts and tools and stuff. They also sell sights in different heights to correct this problem.
The alternative is to fool around with your load until it shoots to the sights. I recommend this first.
I have a S&W 696. I started with 190 SWC's at 600 fps and the gun shot way high 12" at 25 yards. I switched to a 240-260 gr 429421 hp or solid PC'd and upped the charge, (750 fps) and now the gun shoots to the sights at 25 yards. I have shot this gun alot at Cowboy Silhouette Shoots out to 200 meters and by holding about 3 feet high I can hit the Rams consistently off a rest. Pigs at 50 M are held dead on .
However, I didn't like the Sight Picture with the Dayglo Orange Ramp Type Front Sight, so I changed it to a Green Fiber Optic Front Sight that glows Lime Green in the direct sun and is much easier to pickup. I like this Front Sight much better and I got it from Brownell's for about $20. It was easy to install for me, or a Gunsmith could do it for a few $.
As a side note: I highly recommend that you get a set of X Frame Grips for your gun. (Last Pic) The S&W Grip Frame hits the web of your hand hard and with Magnum Loads it hits even harder. this gets old real fast. I could shoot 12 rounds of Magnums and I was done. That was in 1978 and these didn't exist yet, but they do now and they really work well. That extra 3/8" of padding on the grip makes all the difference in the world.
Randy
Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 09-18-2019 at 04:52 PM.
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
DRM50,
When I get home, if I remember I'll post a pic of a modification I made to my RR front sight, which effectively turned it into a patridge. I did this on two Smith and Wessons that had integrally forged ramp fronts.
I'm travelling now, so I'm just working off of a phone.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |