Another light strike issue..

[Elroy]

I knew that the Rossi single shot rifles had an issue with light strikes,but I couldn't resist buying a 308/12 gauge for $183.I have a Henry,and a CVA break action as well,and while the Henry has given me no trouble I had light strikes with my CVA 7mm08.I also have a Savage 7mm08,and was using the same brass full length sized.I was also using CCI primers.I now only neck size cases for the CVA and use a Winchester primer,and never have had an issue since.I ordered dies for the Rossi 308,but also bought some Remington CorLokt that was on sale at Wallyworld for $12 a box.I had 8 fail to fire from the first box.I haven't got my dies in yet,but I did pull the bullets from the ones that wouldn't fire,and conducted an experiment of priming 4 cases with CCI 250, and 4 with Winchester standard large rifle.I just wadded up little plugs of paper towel in the necks,and they all fired with no light strikes.I expected the CCI to not fire.The powder that the Remington had loaded these with is super fine, and I wonder if it could have possibly worked its way through the flash hole,and into the primers and softened the blow to the anvil.I did no sizing to these cases only decapped them.Anyone have an opinion?...Thanks

[Der Gebirgsjager]

There's a lot going on here, and you're probably going to have to explain some things in greater detail and answer some questions before you're going to solve the problem. After reading this several times, if I get it right, you've got a CVA and a Savage in 7mm-08, and have had trouble with both of them. You used full length sized reloads, experienced misfires, and now just neck size for the CVA and have no problems. The problem is with the Savage.

First, I really think you can rule out powder sifting through the flash hole into the primer pocket and deadening the blow to the anvil. Honestly, I've never encountered a case of this happening, and if it did I don't believe it would cause a misfire. Second, I think your experimentation (and my experience) would also rule out CCI primers as being the problem.

That leaves some possibilities to explore. Failure to fire is most often caused by a faulty firing pin (small amount of tip broken off), weak or broken firing pin spring, or dirt, grease, debris in the firing pin channel in the bolt. If you disassemble and thoroughly clean the bolt and its components, replace the spring if it seems questionable, then the next possibility is the barrel's chamber. If it was cut too deeply the firing pin would have to shove the cartridge case farther enough forward to encounter resistance when the cartridge case's shoulder impacted against the chamber's shoulder, lessening the impact of the firing pin and causing a misfire. As most Savage rifles headspace by screwing in the barrel against a "go" headspace gauge inserted in the chamber and then tightening the barrel's collar nut, it is possible that the barrel has been removed or become loose and is not screwed in sufficiently. In the same area, it is possible that the barrel is screwed in properly, but the chamber has been cut too deeply. Finally, we come to the brass. If it is sized in such a way as to be out of spec. with the shoulder pushed back too far, a similar situation exists as with the barrel not being screwed in to the proper depth in that excessive force may be needed to drive the case forward in the chamber for contact with the chamber's shoulder -- or in an extreme case it may not contact at all.

You should closely inspect your fired brass for signs of headspace problems such as stretching forward of the extractor groove, split necks, or any other peculiarity.

Most likely you will find the problem to be in the bolt.

DG

[Elroy]

I should have been more clear. I have never had trouble from my Savage 7mm08.I had trouble with the CVA using the same full length sized cases that work fine with the Savage.I have probably shot over 100 rounds through the CVA with no issues since neck sizing only and switching to Win.primers.I think it was more of a sizing issue,but I stick with the Win.primers just to be sure.I now have complete confidence in the CVA..I feel pretty sure that if I do the same method with the Rossi it should be dependable as long as I use only proven cases..I was just curious as to why it got no light strikes when I reprimed the empty,unsized cases after pulling the bullets.I did use a kinetic puller, and had to pound it pretty hard because they were crimped, but I wouldn't think it could possibly stretch the brass.I am adding a picture if I can to demonstrate how fine this powder is.I do notice that one CCI is not dimpled much,but it did fire.

[marlinman93]

I'd start by looking at the gun to fix what's going on with it that makes it picky. Better to fix the gun so it shoots anything, than be hamstrung by having to use certain primers or loading techniques just to make the gun do what it was supposed to do anyway.
I'd start by checking firing pin protrusion and ensure it's around .050". If not I'd rework the firing pin to get more tip exposed. Then I'd also check the firing pin to ensure it's got free travel and no roughness that can cause friction to slow down the strike. Might need to polish the firing pin bore to ensure it's smooth, and then oil it with a good oil like Kroil to allow it to be slippery in the movement.
I hate finicky guns that don't want to shoot certain primers, or ammo. If the ammo is factory, the gun should shoot it regardless.

[cwlongshot]

These are allot like handis. I never had a Rossi.. But Id look at couple things.

Firing pin protrusion. How much do you have?

Hammer spurr.. Do you have one? Try removing it

Main spring. Can you change out the main/hammer spring to better quality? Maybe Wolf makes a extra power like they do for h&r’s?
lastly look at head space. I didn't remember reading caliber but Is the rim recess clean?

Good luck

CW

[Elroy]

I checked the firing pin protrusion and get .054",and the pin moves freely in it's bore,but while preforming these suggested test ,I did notice an oily looking rust color coating on the head of the firing pin,and the fact that the head of the pin has a half round rather than a circular face on the surface that is struck.I assume it is intended to be like this rather than being broken.It is hard to see the face good enough to tell.I will try to get a picture.