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Thread: anealing aluminum gas checks

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    anealing aluminum gas checks

    annealing copper checks for the first time inside a pipe. would i anneal aluminum checks the same way. charcoal under and over the pipe for a couple hours?? might not be necessary; but, i like the idea of eaiser sizing and possible better adhesion.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Interesting, have you recovered any bullets t see what they look like?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Heat the copper up to a dull red , in dim light not bright light and then let it cool down slowly or drop it in water...either way it will be dead soft . Don't burn the copper... 2 hours @ dull red will make it a crispy critter . As soon as the color goes dull red it's done.
    Be aware that newly annealed copper is incredibly soft so be careful not to deform the check .

    I have annealed copper washers for plumbing lines so they would seal better but I've never found the need to anneal gas checks .

    I don't know about annealing aluminum .

    Let us know how all this works out .
    Gary
    Last edited by gwpercle; 09-06-2019 at 07:23 PM.
    Certified Cajun
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master 35 shooter's Avatar
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    Not true annealing, but I heat my homemade al. Checks for 1 hr. @ 500-550 ( that’s as hot as my oven goes)and let cool. True annealing takes much more heat, but they go on tight and stay there after my heat treating in the oven. Can’t get them off with my fingernails.... better groups too.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Bookworm's Avatar
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    I regularly anneal copper checks - usually I just lay them out on a piece of thick ceramic tile and go over them with a propane torch. I can anneal several hundred in 10 minutes or so.

    Annealing really makes a difference in seating/sizing the checked boolit. Since starting annealing, I haven't had a problem with checks falling off.

    I've never tried annealing aluminum checks - I've just recently started using them.
    "Varium et mutabile semper femina." - Virgil
    Man, ain't it the truth....

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    Bloodman14's Avatar
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    Long story short, I learned to throw a bunch of gaschecks that I made from aluminum flashing into a cast iron pot, throw in a handful of pine shavings (animal/pet bedding), and when the shavings auto-ignite, let it burn off. The checks have the paint (powdercoat?) burned off, and are nice and soft to work with. Groups improved as well.
    Lead Forever!


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  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Bloodman, thanks for the report. I'm going to try this myself.

    When I read that the shavings/whatnot "auto ignite", it sounds like you have the pot on a burner?
    "Varium et mutabile semper femina." - Virgil
    Man, ain't it the truth....

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    https://www.tinmantech.com/education...-annealing.php
    Looks like the Cu GC technique works with Al also, but heat for a short time. As pop can material is deep drawn, suspect it has been annealed pretty well, may not need more? Rolled sheet most likely hasn't. Like Cu, you don't want it too soft. Cu turns silvery when at the proper temp (short time) - Al doesn't change color. Both oxidize easily so the pipe in the pot method is probably the best - with tissue addded to use up O2.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check