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Thread: 350 Legend and Cast Boolits

  1. #81
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    tomme boy's Avatar
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    The ones I ordered were all Win. The FMJ ones are crimped. Not sure about the others. I just bought 3 more boxes of factory loaded FMJ's last week and they are all crimped as well.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbeans View Post
    CW,

    Let me know what headstamps are on that fired 350L brass from Grafs.

    BB
    Will do!!

    Tommy, I have only bought Win FMJ factory so far. I did shoot a few but stopped when i saw some pressure signs and started measuring cases. They where all over the place for lengths!!!

    Any how, none if these I bought, had crimped primers.

    I’ll look close when the brass fired arrives. I just haven’t seen crimped primers in the legend. But its a non issue really as my Dillion 600 is quite adapt at handling primer Pockets!

    CW
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  3. #83
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    Somebody mebbe reminded Winchester that all that AR-15 mechanism uses requires primer crimping for full mil-spec reliability.

    Or more likely, Winchester ran the Legends on a 5.56/.223 line that was already set up to crimp primers and simply didn't change the set up.

    Or else somebody had complained about some primers falling out in the box (Winchester, what the heck are you doing now ?????)

    You get to take your pick ......
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  4. #84
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    FWIW, the federal 350L brass I have hand loaded is not crimped. This brass also has the correct dimensions. I don't know if the federal brass is available as a reloading component.

    BB

  5. #85
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    Federal I have I had to throw away. Case heads expanded too much and had blown primers also. No Thanks!!!

  6. #86
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    Blown primers = reloader problem, not a brass problem.

    BB

  7. #87
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    BB's point is valid, you could segregate the Federal and use it for some milder cast boolit loadings.

    New progress as of Saturday --- the triple aught buckshot mold came in from Amazon and it was machined very very nicely on all the stacked cavities. I degreased/deoiled it with brake parts cleaner and then heated it on the top of the stove with the mold halves open to let it air out good and let it heat cure in a bit.

    Then I Q-tipped the cavities using the same hexagonal boron nitride powder they sell as bullet lubricant/barrel conditioner.

    Made up a pot of 20% tin 80% WW alloy, ran the temp on the bottom pour LEE pot up all the way, heated the mold up on the stove eye to medium high heat and then went to pouring.

    First shots were nozzle inserted into bevel full pressure force pours, I got some flashing and 100% cavity fill, quickly noticed the lead was taking forever to solidify so I cut the heat back down to my normal running settings and started using a pour stream from the nozzle as I normally do. Force pours are not needed.

    Still got 100% fill on all casts, so I proceeded to make a lot of buckshot. Started adding WW ingot to the pot exclusively, slowly began to see some partial fills on the bottom cavity and realized I found me a functional limit at the lower "good for 20% tin alloy stuff" temperature.

    Cranked the heat back up and the partial fill issues disappeared, but I had to use the "tap a moist rag" trick occasionally to get the mold temp back down from showing "excessive heating" conditions. Noticed I was getting all frosty in line with the other cavities and that my bullets weren't as round as they used to be, just some more symptoms of excessive heat.

    I had enough strings of 3 to proceed to powder coating, where I discovered that laying the strings on their side after applying the powder made a sizable flat spot out of the sag and run of the powder coating. Flat spots were mostly taken out by sizing, but a few remained mildly flatted on the rifling engagement zone to the point they could leak pressure.

    First day learning was accomplished, first batch of strings was imperfect but I think they would be serviceable if I powder tumbled them again in Ford Light Blue and intentionally laid them on the curing tray so the old flat isn't on the bottom again.

    So I did that. It worked.

    One coat of powder really isn't enough on a string of 3 anyway as any imperfections on the equator of the shot would give leading a starting spot when the string was fired.

    Shot size was .356" to .357" as cast "hot as hell" with .358"-.359" on first powder coat and .361"-.362" on the second powder coat. Post sizing was .3565" just like all the normal bullets were, and string breakage during sizing was less than 15%. Not bad, really.

    I also noted that the mold is closing better after some use, it will cast slightly smaller in diameter when measured perpendicular to the parting line (not so perfectly round pellets) after the face knurling wears in a bit.

    This very minor error gets lost in the powder coating, so no correction is needed at this time.

    While sizing the single shot, I found myself using the largest flat spot on the sphere to balance the bullet on the ram -- this resulted in a nice round evenly sized equator zone and provided me a way to use the slightly flatted shot strings I have very effectively.

    If they are a string of 3 with large flats at the equator, just cut off the most ugly end shot and size it again using the largest flat spot as a balancing point on the ram. Now you can use that single resized shot (nice even equator zone) as the first shot in the loading, this shot is sitting down on the powder with two uglier flatted shot sitting on top of it.

    When fired, the round bottom shot with the nice equator zone will provide the gas seal for the two uglier shot stacked on top of it.
    Last edited by Oldfeller; 10-15-2019 at 09:55 AM.
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  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbeans View Post
    Blown primers = reloader problem, not a brass problem.

    BB
    Factory loaded, not me

  9. #89
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    You may have chamber dimensions or headspace problems causing the trouble with federal brass and primers. In my RARR 350L I can reload the federal brass without resizing. All of the factory loads I have fired show no signs of overpressuure.

    BB

  10. #90
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    None of the Winchester factory loads shot out of my gun have a problem. None of my reloads have a problem. Federal brass is known to be JUNK.

  11. #91
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    From what I am told is Federal is not doing a second strike of the head to harden the brass like everyone else does. And this makes the heads soft. It is ok for a lower PSI cartridge but not for loads in the 45k+ area. It is the bean counter getting the line to run faster by not doing an extra step.

  12. #92
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    Please provide documentation regarding federal brass being junk.

    BB

  13. #93
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    You guys are doing that tit-for-tat argument thing again.

    You can both agree that some Federal brass isn't up to doing full bore maximum loads due to potential "weak headedness" so may I offer you a solution to the issue?

    Save up all the Federal brass you get and send it all to me for proper disposal.

    This is the same offer I made to the folks who couldn't get over mil surp IMR 7383 being so durn peaky and "dangerous" in heavy loadings.

    Being somewhat peaky and dangerous and "weak headed" myself, I just naturally seem to know how to utilize such dangerous stuff .......

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now you too can see all the awesome potential that I saw in this oddball cartridge .....

    Powder for this load is gonna be BLC-2 and it is a mildly compressed load under the string of 3 using the same powder charge I developed for the big 35 Remington bullet.

    I think I see way too much available room inside the 350 Legend case for trying to use WC820 --- it would lead the "weak headed" among us into dire temptation as you could do a real full power jacketed bullet loading with that much powder room when using the faster WC820 powder.

    ...... we gots to watch out fer the somewhat peaky and dangerous and "weak headed" among us.

    And, simply think of those 3 lead balls as "inert filler" that you are using just so you can keep your powder charge down tight by the primer flame for getting some better ignition of some slower ball powders like BLC-2 .......
    Last edited by Oldfeller; 10-15-2019 at 02:28 PM.
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  14. #94
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    Each time I use my new style LEE 2 hole molds with the dual steel alignment pins, I like them better and better and better.

    Literally, all I had to do to get ready to cast me some more 200 grain gas check 358 rifle bullets out of the C358-200-RF mold was to dust the alignment pin holes and the sprue plate and the cavities with a Q-tip load of Hexagonal Boron Nitride powder -- this means an easy start up with very free release until the higher mold heat easy release takes effect.
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  15. #95
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    Oldfeller,

    I see Accurate has a mold in the catalog for the 350L. 180g with GC and an oglive similar to the factory jacketed bullets.

    I sure wish my PC boolits turned out as nice as yours.

    BB

  16. #96
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    Eastwood Ford Light Blue powder coat in a small Frankford Arsenal vibratory bowl --- yep, it's the bee's knees -- never leave home without it.

    (does look good, doesn't it)
    All retired now, just growing tomatoes and building and shooting my guns.

  17. #97
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    Your welcome on the 180lg mold. We designed it around the chamber drawings and case drawings. The diameter can be changed to a smaller O.D. for whatever your gun measures.

  18. #98
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    Been getting some requests for a heavy subsonic load for the Legend for those who love silencers and potting pigs at night using infra-red scopes.

    Got me no silencer personally, I don't personally need a subsonic load for any reason ---- but such is possible using tech I have already shown to folks.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    to cycle and there are a ton of loading issues in making up the rounds.


    The front locomotive in the Big Blue Train is a 125 grain LEE 2R 9mm pistol slug that the mold is currently available everywhere for $24-$30. This hangs out in front of the case giving the round "out of the magazine and into the chamber" lead-in guidance that the little round ball really lacks the ability to do very well by itself.

    With 3 balls as shown it could only be a sub-sonic, cut the ball count down to 2 and it could be a fairly respectable heavy rifle loading.

    Weight of lead is 335 grains for the four projectile load (as shown) and 265 grains for a two ball load with the Luger style bullet in front.

    These extremely heavy load weights may require slow powders like WC872 for a slow start if you were trying for "as fast as possible supersonic" but seeing how much lead is involved the WC872 will likely have lots & lots of time to burn completely.

    For subsonic you can do what the shotgunners do, simply use some fast pistol powders like Blue Dot but only use a little tiny amount of them.

    Upon loading the balls, you will get a chain of bulges in the case that would require insertion part way into the full length sizing die just to iron the bulges out. This is no sin because you need to stick the finished round into the full length sizing die anyway to slow taper crimp the case mouth into the first bullet.

    The lead alloy is air dropped wheel weight alloy and firing such loads will likely immediately "slug the chain of pellets up" upon firing to whatever the chamber wall and the expanded case will allow ---- the forcing cone comes next and reduces it all back down to .355" anyway.

    Think revolvers and the cylinder throat slugging action and you will realize we do this sort of stuff all the time anyway in our pistols.

    The untouched bullet in the front always caps the fizz anyway, so it isn't like any pressure will be lost and the entire blue train will still exit the station in an organized fashion.

    Last edited by Oldfeller; 01-05-2020 at 01:03 AM.
    All retired now, just growing tomatoes and building and shooting my guns.

  19. #99
    Boolit Master


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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Brass arrived today

    It appears to be all Winchester I don't think its crimped.
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
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  20. #100
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    Yep,

    This is the address to the Graf and Sons stuff that I recommend normal people to buy and use.

    https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog...roductId/81023

    $17.00 per hundred is affordable and the brass is apparently pretty consistent at Winchester head stamps, mixed crimped and non-crimped at the moment.

    It will change over to mixed headstamps and mixed staked primers pretty soon as it is range brass, so I'd buy some $17.00 per hundred now if you are of a mind to do so.

    This is such good advice I think I'll take it, myself, right now.

    Last edited by Oldfeller; 10-22-2019 at 09:25 AM.
    All retired now, just growing tomatoes and building and shooting my guns.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check