ke4vpn at gmail dot net - 2 Cavity-.680 Diameter-All Pins-28073
ke4vpn at gmail dot net - 2 Cavity-.680 Diameter-All Pins-28073
We are getting close. Almost have enough
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I'm surprised more of the slug shooting crowd hasn't gotten in on this one. I haven't bought a mould in quite a while but this one has me excited! I wasn't going to pass this one up!
If the full bore version runs as well I'll likely splurge and get it too. I like the design.
I actually prefer the idea of full bore but a guy can't have enough options... wad slug and full bore pretty much covers it. If you want easy loading just dropping a slug in a wad is easy and also works for using factory rounds with shot dumped out... assuming the wad petals are reasonably close to fit. That might not give optimum accuracy but it is quick, easy and cheap and for those SHTF types an option they shouldn't be without so jump in and buy a couple of moulds you guys! The more the merrier! If this works like the original then with good wad fit and/or planned obturation it should be quite accurate.
Full bore is more likely (in my mind) to give best accuracy but requires custom wad columns of some type and lubing so a little more work.
Get them both and cover your bases I say!
I'm going to make a new nose form and HB pin for my full bore mould and see if I can duplicate the Buckbuster close enough then play a bit. I'd still like the Mihec full bore brass mould too though.
Longbow
I don't even know what to think. The design already had to be changed so that it could be casted rather than swaged. Not a huge deal. Then out of left field came this full bore version, now the guys out of the loop like newcastter are confused. Plus now we have a tumble lube wad slug. MP molds has made smooth bullets with the same lube groove cherry many times before. I don't understand why he cant make a smooth slug now. Nobody said anything about a full bore slug in the first place. It was supposed to be a BUCKBUSTER clone.
The idea of a full bore version is not a good one. It already exists! Accurate molds 73-770SU.
It shouldnt be too hard to close 8 more sign ups.
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msm I am glad you started the discussion that turned into this group buy and I won't disagree that the idea of a Buckbuster clone was a great idea and I would have been happy with the smooth Buckbuster clone you suggested. No problem there at all. I would have been happy with that.
However, I am a smoothbore shooter and like the idea of a full bore version as well.
The Buckbuster should be a good full bore slug for smoothbore as well. The Accurate 73-770SU might work well for rifled gun but not so much for smoothbore.
The tumble lube grooves shouldn't detract from the wad slug and are a benefit for the full bore version.
I'd like both.
Again thanks for initiating this and I guess I have to say I'm sorry it deviated from your vision but I have to think the grooved wad slug will be just as good as a smooth version.
Just my opinion.
Longbow
I have enough things to put in a 12 gauge wad at the moment. Will be watching for when this design goes full bore. A similar slug in 20 gauge would be great also.
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I don't mind the idea of a full bore slug and as I powder coat my slugs I don't see the grooves as a problem. I would likely order the full bore version also but I just picked up the full bore paradox Russian slug mould with tail wads and seating tools and it works well for me with the wads or filled with hot glue over X12X and either brush wad or waxed fiber wads. Guess I'm feeling a little cash poor for both at the moment. Gp
I have a lee 7/8 slug mould that I use in my Mossberg 930 smooth bore with a rifled choke tube. I like the fact this is made to fit in the polywads, my loading process right now includes several cardboard spacers in a polywad for height and is very tedious. I am not real experienced loading slugs, if I were to order a mould from this buy would the smaller slug work in my barrel? Or would I need a fullbore that no longer fits in a polywad?
If you fill the base with hot glue you do not need spacers under the slug in some loads. Often they do help though. Best accuracy is often found with a nitro card under the slug, and petals trimmed even with the shoulder. It does take work, but that's what it takes for optimal accuracy. While mossberg is known to be slightly larger, often running .732", these slugs are designed to bump up inside the bore for a perfect fit. They should work well for you. It's slower than loading shot, but if you only drop a nitro card in the wad, put the slug in the wad, and seat all at once through a wad guide, it goes plenty fast. The only thing that wish went faster was filling the bases with hot glue. If you use the thicker skirt base pin, and use a nitro card underneath, and stick to lighter loads, you may get away without it.
I like the wad slugs for ease of loading but wad slug or full bore if they are hollow base slugs I fill the base. Almost every unfilled slug I have recovered has a distorted skirt and/or nose from uneven bump up or skirt collapse.
Not only does the filler (glue or whatever) keep the skirt from collapsing (and probably helps with even bump up for soft slugs), it also keeps wads from getting jammed up into the HB cavity. It takes a bit of time but I do it.
Longbow
I think using hot glue would be more difficult and more costly than the paper discs that I use now. I am not 100% worried about accuracy, I use them for fun day 3 gun on my own property so most the shots are sub 20 yards. I also forgot to mention I am roll crimping
In that case you can probably get away with anything. I don't want to talk you out of this mold, but a .678" round ball fits right in a shot cup. You don't have to roll crimp. Use the same load data as your 1 or 1 1/8 oz shot loads, and substitute the ball. No need for nitro cards or anything.
Realistic round ball accuracy for me was 3" to 4" at 50 yards. Groups were not often tighter than 3" and not often much over 4", pretty consistent with good loads. Groups do open up much past 60 to maybe 70 yards with lots of fliers and large groups (generally) at 100 yards. That is from smoothbore.
That was using 0.662" RB's cloth patched into the shotcups like for muzzleloader and for 0.735" RB's naked on a hard card wad column.
I figured 0.678" would be perfect but as it turns out, not with the wads I have currently. They fit snuggly in the bore of my single shot using old Pacific Verelite wads but the current Winchester wads I have are a bit thin so fit is loose and accuracy not so good. Might do better in my tighter bored Mossberg but yet to be tested.
The 0.735" RB is over bore diameter so swages to fit and shoots well. The cloth patched 0.662" RB is also a good fit and shoots well, plus being patched you can change cloth thickness to get correct fit. That 0.678" RB is too big to cloth patch but maybe one wrap of paper would do it.
Ajay has posted many photos of slug and round ball in wad combinations and listed diameters. Of course bore diameter comes into it too and my single shot has a fat bore. I'll take that info when I go to Edmonton for Thanksgiving so I can buy some appropriate wads... hopefully! There is nothing available locally.
I sent some 0.678" RB's to Hogtamer to try out in his rifled gun and while they did okay accuracy was not great. Again, fit may play a part there. Not sure what his fit to bore was like and wad selection may make a difference too in plastic hardness, etc.
Anyway, RB's are easy to cast and shoot pretty well with the right load.
Longbow
I only list .678" as you can buy the mold right from MP molds website. I only use a full bore balls, .735" for the 12 gauge, and .780" for the 10 gauge. Shooting under 20 yards is not demanding, it's hard to imagine something not being accurate enough. With good loads 3"-4" is standard for me at 50 yards with a smooth bore. I routinely get groups about around 2" at 50 yards from a rifled barrel, and in the 5"-8" range at 100 yards. Accuracy really falls off past 60ish yards in a smooth bore. Even if you skip every trick in the book, (nitro cards, cutting wad petals, etc.) and just dump a round ball in a plastic shot cup, I would think you should at least be able to do 3" at 25 yards, and probably better.
Could one of you help me decide whether the .678 or .680 would better suit my barrel? It’s a Remington 870 Rifled Barrel. Or do I need to slug the barrel?
Honestly it makes little difference. There is more than a .002" difference between wad brands, so you may find the wad/slug combo that fits best. Also if you use a softer lead, they will bump up to size. .681" is what the original Buckbuster slug was, but I'm sure there is little noticeable difference with .678". Due to the small bearing surface, you can get away with a larger round ball, although the Lee .690" is a touch too big. Remington bores usually run around .729", although they can vary quite a bit.
Double post, sorry
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |