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Thread: Anyone shoot a .351 Winchester Auto-loader?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Anyone shoot a .351 Winchester Auto-loader?

    Iv'e had one in a safe for years. I only shot 1 round out of it. It launched my brass across the continent.I have two boxes of original Dominion ammo and I may or may not be in the market for molds. I bought it years ago when I didnt have alot of experience with firearms. It has two different serial numbers on the receivers. It might not be a collection piece like some of my other firearms but it shoots...

    Im thinking of getting brass and a mold from somewhere...? or can I make brass from another caliber? .357 maybe...
    Il need to make a brass catcher, something nice out of leather.

    Theres just something about it that feels really nice when I hold it. I like the feel of the stock and grips, its a little bit skinnier then my lever guns.

    Any tips and tricks I should know?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Kev18,just yesterday I started making cases out of 357 Maximum cases on my lathe. First I trimmed to length,then put them over a mandrel in the lathe and turned the rim to .406, and recut the extractor groove like the factory cases. I,ve read where 357 Mag length cases can be used, but I've never tried them, in fact I have never fired this rifle yet.
    I became interested in that rifle after watching U-tuber Logcabinlooms shoot his, so I found one at a gunshow last winter, but have not got my cartridges made yet. As for bullets, I need to make a Lee style push style sizer die at .352 dia, and trysome 158 gr bullets, or some 200 grain bullets for a 35 Rem.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gewehr-Guy View Post
    Kev18,just yesterday I started making cases out of 357 Maximum cases on my lathe. First I trimmed to length,then put them over a mandrel in the lathe and turned the rim to .406, and recut the extractor groove like the factory cases. I,ve read where 357 Mag length cases can be used, but I've never tried them, in fact I have never fired this rifle yet.
    I became interested in that rifle after watching U-tuber Logcabinlooms shoot his, so I found one at a gunshow last winter, but have not got my cartridges made yet. As for bullets, I need to make a Lee style push style sizer die at .352 dia, and trysome 158 gr bullets, or some 200 grain bullets for a 35 Rem.
    I watch him too, make sure to check out his video on changing the buffer. I'd probably need to change mine.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub Ajohns's Avatar
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    If in doubt, cases were for sale through Buffalo Arms. Jacketed pills and molds too.

  5. #5
    i've always wanted a 401 wsl, but i won't pass up 351wsl either!!!
    "The religion of KE: proposed by the ignorant, and parroted by the unknowing" - MikeG

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  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I use 357 mag cases. I reduce the rim size with a drill press and file. I do not cut an extractor groove. The cases are sized and loaded using 38/357 dies, and are neck sized with .223 die. Cast bullet: .352". IMR 4227 – 17 grs. Small rifle primer. It works well in my 351 WSL.
    It's a good idea to change the buffer and recoil spring.
    Be careful buying reloads online.
    Accurate Molds sells a few molds for that rifle: 35-175A (that's what I use), 35-175AG, 35-180C and 35-180GC.
    Last edited by Battis; 09-05-2019 at 04:14 PM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I use 357 mag cases. I reduce the rim size with a drill press and file. I do not cut an extractor groove. The cases are sized and loaded using 38/357 dies, and are neck sized with .223 die. Cast bullet: .352". IMR 4227 – 17 grs. Small rifle primer. It works well in my 351 WSL.
    It's a good idea to change the buffer and recoil spring.
    Be careful buying reloads online.
    Accurate Molds sells a few molds for that rifle: 35-175A (that's what I use), 35-175AG, 35-180C and 35-180GC.
    How do you make the case stay in the drill press? Stick the rim in the chuck or fit a dowel in it?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy blackbahart's Avatar
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    Hi Kev18
    see you are in canada .
    I am using 360 DW now for 351 cases was using 357Max ,but I stopped as they suddenly became more expensive and don't want to run out of them for my other rifles and h/g.
    RWTC brings me in the Graff and sons plated 180 for the 351 and I also made a sizer to push rem 180 jacketed hp through for game .

    I do have the 4 was cals in CF and rimfire plus a few customs we made in a 4 different cals to have (30 carbine,338-223 short ,44amp and 357 max on 1910s and shoot them all .

    I use an ar brass catcher with some magnets and works great to catch the empties and it does not interfere with the sights

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I shot 351 a good bit back in 70s. Ammo was a little hard to get but I got a good supply through grapevine as several local Law Enforcement & Prison were getting rid of their 07s. I did load some years later when brass was harder to come buy. Used a 150gr RN cast bullet and H-2400 load. Still got my dies but no 351 at present. The boolit mould was .38cal and sized. Used 100% WWs. Guns I had never did better than 4" or 5" at 100yds. With factory ammo. Only ever shot with factory irons.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Why dont .357 mag work? To short or...

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    357 Mag cases work perfectly for me (or did you mean 357 rounds?). I have to find a faster way to trim the rims. I wrap tape around a wooden dowel until it fits tightly in the case, then slide the dowel into the drill press. It works but it's slow.
    17 grs of IMR 4227 keeps the bullet from working into the case (IMR 4227 can be compressed), and a good crimp keeps the bullet from sliding out. Is it a perfect cartridge? No. But it's safe, accurate and ejects perfectly even without the extractor groove. I bought an expensive box of loaded ammo online, and when I pulled the bullets and measured the powder on a few I found that there was between 17 grs and 21 grs of powder, which is too much of a variation for me. Plus, the cases were made from 357 Max, and I found that when they ejected from my gun, the case mouths were getting crushed. This does not happen with the shorter 357 Mag cases.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    357 Mag cases work perfectly for me (or did you mean 357 rounds?). I have to find a faster way to trim the rims. I wrap tape around a wooden dowel until it fits tightly in the case, then slide the dowel into the drill press. It works but it's slow.
    17 grs of IMR 4227 keeps the bullet from working into the case (IMR 4227 can be compressed), and a good crimp keeps the bullet from sliding out. Is it a perfect cartridge? No. But it's safe, accurate and ejects perfectly even without the extractor groove. I bought an expensive box of loaded ammo online, and when I pulled the bullets and measured the powder on a few I found that there was between 17 grs and 21 grs of powder, which is too much of a variation for me. Plus, the cases were made from 357 Max, and I found that when they ejected from my gun, the case mouths were getting crushed. This does not happen with the shorter 357 Mag cases.
    Do you have actual .351 dies? And what bullet do you use? People cut the base off of a .35 remington bullet from a lee mold and load those.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I use the Accurate Mold 35-175A. I use 38/357 dies. I tried the .351 dies a few years ago but they do not work on .357 Mag cases.
    http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=6

    I load for the .32, .35, .351 and .401 and I never cut extractor grooves.

  14. #14
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    Back when I was making .401 Herter's out of .41 Mag I just chucked the case in the drill press then put a carbide late bit in the drill press vise and ran it to the rim. Very easy and sort of fast.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I haven't messed with mine in a while, but developed some cast loads and killed two deer with them. I never made my own brass for it, got some commercial brass when some was available and have enough for a while.

    Get a brass catcher. I bought a cheap, Velcro on one from Ebay for about eight bucks designed to fit on an AR, and it works well on the 1907.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I saw a video online where a 351 owner made a deflector out of leather that directed the ejected cases to the ground near his feet. He did a pretty good job making it. I also have the Velcro brass catcher.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I use the Accurate Mold 35-175A. I use 38/357 dies. I tried the .351 dies a few years ago but they do not work on .357 Mag cases.
    http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=6

    I load for the .32, .35, .351 and .401 and I never cut extractor grooves.
    QUESTIONS:

    1: what do you mean by trimming the rim? Cutting length off or filing off thickness?

    2: Your'e telling me I dont need to resize .357 cases?

    3: What size is the bullet diameter? People cut the bottom of the bullet on a 35 rem but its .358 dia.

    I would think a .357 bullet is bigger then a .351... Its in the name?

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Im pretty much asking what needs to be done to a .357 mag case to work in my .351.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    The length of a 357 mag case is fine (some think it's too short). The diameter of the rim has to be reduced (I can get the exact measurement from a vintage case if you need it). I run the case through the 38/357 die to size it. The bullets I cast from the Accurate Mold are .352". After I size the case in the 38/357 I run the case into a .223 die to put some more tension on the neck. Why a .223 die for neck tension? It was suggested to me on this forum because a .223 die is tapered and you can put as much tension on the neck as you need. I pour in 17 grs of IMR 4227 which takes up a lot of space in the case. I seat the bullet on top of it, compressing the powder slightly. Then I crimp the case to hold the bullet in. Now, I can twist the bullet by hand in the case, but the powder keeps it from pushing into the case, and the crimp keeps it from pulling out. The loaded cartridge feeds perfectly and ejects perfectly. I'm sure there's a better way to get neck tension but that's as far as I went.

    I mentioned a leather deflector. It was made by the youtuber Logcabinlooms. I'm not crazy about the way he changed the buffers.

    Numrich sells the buffers. Get a new spring from Wolff Springs. Both are worth it to keep the receiver from getting damaged.

    https://www.gunsprings.com/WINCHESTE.../mID120/dID324

    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man.../rifles-win/07
    Last edited by Battis; 09-06-2019 at 12:50 AM.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Il try measuring factory cases. I have 2 full boxes.

    then the 35 rem bullet would be to big... its .358? I have the lee catalog infront of me. I have a supplier real close so its not an issue. Im trying to figure out what to buy...

    .357 dies

    .357 brass

    A bullet mold that fits?

    And do you only thin down the neck for some reason or file down the whole case?

    Guide me on what to buy please. If I order online .351 dies it would be around 200$ Im trying to save up abit.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check