1863 Springfield rifled muzzleloader replica

[Tomeguns]

Hi All
I just picked up a 1863 Springfield rifled muzzleloader replica percussion rifle its 58 caliber and new to me . I would like an education on this I'm not brand new to muzzle loading but have a more modern type.
Looking for Standard load, bullet weight, Powder load, the muzzle measured ruffle .575 to .578. I believe I read it fired a 58 caliber Minnie ball or round ball and patch. Also is there a good source online to order 58 caliber Minnie balls to get me started and what would be a good percussion cap to start with.
Thanks All !

[Boz330]

Mine is made by Euro Arms and I had to go to the oversize mold but found the Lee REAL worked best with about 60gr 2F. YMMV.

Bob

[KCSO]

58 mine there are many designs but the original style were loaded with between 60-70 grains of FFg or so powder in a paper ctg. or a round ball 70-75 grains of FFg works well and is accurate to 100 yards or so. With round ball I shhot a 562 with a thick patch but some do better woth a 570 and a thin patch depends on the riflng,

Be sure and check the nipple as some imports have nipples with really big holes. probably copied from burned out originals.

[bob208]

standard load was a mini about 500 gr. a 60 gr. load of 2f. in n-ssa we shot a 400 gr mini with 30 gr 3f. either load will knock a deer flat. do not try to hot rod the load with large amounts of powder you will be back asking how to get the blown off skirts out of the barrel. try for a bullet fit that you need some thumb pressure to start. lube the hallow base with Crisco. try to get a hot shot type nipple nipple one with the small hole and stainless. I have not seen a good stanard nipple yet in any of the reproes. for caps I like rws musket caps the 4 wing type. stay away from the cci reenactor caps they do not fire the powder reliably. use pure lead for the minis and real powder and you should not have any problems.

[varsity07840]

Hi All
I just picked up a 1863 Springfield rifled muzzleloader replica percussion rifle its 58 caliber and new to me . I would like an education on this I'm not brand new to muzzle loading but have a more modern type.
Looking for Standard load, bullet weight, Powder load, the muzzle measured ruffle .575 to .578. I believe I read it fired a 58 caliber Minnie ball or round ball and patch. Also is there a good source online to order 58 caliber Minnie balls to get me started and what would be a good percussion cap to start with.
Thanks All !

If you read that the musket shoots a ".58 cal mini ball", it's referring to the nominal size. In actuality, unless you have an oversize bore, which is entirely possible, the proper size minie could be anywhere between .575 to .579. The idea is to use a minie .001-.002 under bore size. Most store bought minies will be .575 or .577. Your best bet is to find a machinist that has a set of pin gauges that he can measure you bore. Then find a source for your proper size, or better yet start casing you own. Your initial outlay for the gear is a bit pricey but will more than pay for itself if you plan on shooting the musket often. Where do you live in NC? I'm in Hendersonville.

[Buzzard II]

RCBS makes good N-SSA molds. S&S Firearms in Glendale (Queens) N.Y. sells sizing dies. Start off with 50-55 grains of 3F. These guns don't really shoot a patched round ball well so stick with the RCBS N-SSA or similar mold. You may use Crisco for a cheap, fast lube. I used SPG in my Euro Arms .58 Zouave with RWS caps and 55 grains 3F Goex. Olde Ensford is cleaner burning than regular Goex. You may also want to check the N-SSA.org site for more good info. Some already cast bullets are available also. I shot 50 & 100 yard targets. Good luck, have fun.
Bob

[LAGS]

You can do a do a Bore Casting to determine the size of your barrel.
You just have to do it with a plug 1" inside the bore and use a threaded rod cast in the plug to pull the casting out of the bore.
If you use Cerosafe , and the casting won't come out, you just heat up the barrel and pour the melted material back out the muzzle.

[Tomeguns]

Hi All , Thanks for all the info , I have been learning a lot, trying to get into casting as I piece things together for my 43 Spanish as well, Varsity07840 I'm in Clayton NC.

[varsity07840]

Hi All , Thanks for all the info , I have been learning a lot, trying to get into casting as I piece things together for my 43 Spanish as well, Varsity07840 I'm in Clayton NC.

Too bad that you're not closer to western NC. I'd invite you to shoot at our muzzleloader club and try tweeking your musket. I shoot a .50-70 1871 Springfield roller.

[dave951]

Hi All , Thanks for all the info , I have been learning a lot, trying to get into casting as I piece things together for my 43 Spanish as well, Varsity07840 I'm in Clayton NC.

I'm in NC and since you're in Clayton, why not come on over to the North South Skirmish Association shoot at Allison Woods in Statesville on 11/8-10? We shoot muskets live and at this particular skirmish, there will also be live fire artillery competition. It's the last Skirmish of the year and is very well attended.

So back to your musket. Muskets shoot best when the minie is sized about .001 under bore size, are cast from pure lead, and used with moderate powder charges. The load I use for my Parker Hale is 42g 3f Old Eynsford. Minie is an RCBS Hogdon sized to bore. Lube is 60/40 beeswax/lard. RWS musket cap. This load is a sub 2moa load in this gun and my musketoon. Again- there is NO need to use large powder charges with minies. All it does is screw up accuracy, possibly rip or blow the skirt on the minie and blow unburnt powder out the muzzle.

As for lubes, ask 5 Skirmishers, get 12 answers. I've found in my muskets that either Lens Lube with the Rapine Trashcan or Beeswax/lard with the Hogdons work great. I do NOT fill the base of any minie with any lube and have no issues whatsoever running either load for 40+ shots straight with no wiping or fouling issues and no loss of accuracy. I have dug a number of minies out of the backstop (recycling!) with crisco still in the base so the theory that it helps the fouling IMO is suspect. I also tested crisco against lard for accuracy and lard won hands down. Moral of the story is you have to experiment. Get the load in balance with your lube and you can shoot all day.

Powder- use ONLY the holy black if at all possible. The subs can leave a hard fouling if used with the wrong lube and be very hard to get out and possibly damage the shallow rifling on your gun. When using black powder, use only natural based lubes and avoid anything petroleum based. Petroleum based lubes react with the fouling to make a hard abrasive crust in the bore.

Caps- if you want accuracy, only RWS or Schutzen will work reliably. The current CCI Reenactor caps are garbage for live fire.

Above all have fun! Getting these guns to shoot accurately can be a challenge but it's very satisfying to find a load that is a real honest to goodness tack driver.

[Tomeguns]

Thanks for the Info , I will check Cabelas for the Caps, if they dont have may have to hit gunshow or order online, I have plenty of Goex 2F I will try and use that , Im ordering some Minnie from track of the wolf to try before I buy moulds.

[dave951]

A better choice to get sample minies would be CWBulletman. He's on the Lodgewood site. An NSSA member as well. He has a variety of types and sizes. Best place for powder and caps is Back Creek Gun Shop- blackpowderva.com

[Tomeguns]

I will check out thanks Dave951

[webfoot10]

Check out Back Creek Gun Shop in VA. He will have the Top Hat Caps you need, Plus
anything else that has to do with blackpowder shooting. Phone Number is (540)-
888-3349. Or just google Back Creek Gun Shop. Good people to deal with.
webfoot10