why not right hand thread and safety wire nut
why not right hand thread and safety wire nut
The universal dividing head I have has one plate with holes on both sides and a cheater plate with 36. Usually At 40:1 ratio plus whatever # hole pattern you're using makes it seem like a monster, but the sector makes it easy to index without having to count individual holes every time. I keep saying I'm going to make more cheater plates....someday
What's the part number? This isn't it is it? https://www.ebay.com/i/173903323272?...SABEgKDtvD_BwE
Couldn't just re do the spindle by building up metal and new bearings? I'm confused on how it was damaged?
The boss where I worked dabbled in rideon mowers,he got a MF mower that had been mowing either rocks or logs........the splines on the spindles ,and the bearing housings were chopped out.......no replacement parts,new spindles were all one piece welded ,and bearings too......anyway ,there was just enough spline left to turn the spindles upside down,and the bearings were ag bearings cost a few bucks for a tube of 10......I fixed it good enough to sell for the boss's favorite price...under $10
What kind of lathe? I have a HF 9X20 and it did not cut left hand threads. I made a tumbler plate for it.
Also it does not cut true SAE threads, close but no cigar. Found that out when I tried cutting a long thread for a loading die.
Ok to answer , no that's not the spindle , it's close to the two outboard spindles but not the one I need .
And to answer the welding question , that was the first fix .
It also warped the spindle and it now vibrates . A good welder might not have warped it ... but a good welder I never claimed to be and it is what it is now .
So before it shakes itself to death a new spindle I shall make .
But that's not really what this threads about ,it's about the quest to make the parts that make the parts .
Once that's done the spindle is the easy part ... it'll be two hours and done even at my slow pace .
My lathe is a grizzly 10x22 and a new tumbler plate is exactly what I'm making . It does have imperial lead screw so threads are correct .
Metric threads are like .003 % off but that's so minor to not even be noticeable . You just can't disengage the lead screw when metric threading because the thread dial is off
I like it , the making it yourself to make what you need , makes sense to me , buy tooling when you need it , make what you can make to do jobs now and in the future . Something to be said for the doing it yourself also as that is what a lot of this site is , making our own .
Error Error error will not compute .
So I got time to do a bit of gear cutting and made a boo boo
I accidentally disengaged the worm about a third the way threw .
No big deal , tomarow when I cut the steel gear I'll not do that again .
The mistake shows up when it happened , and again of course at the last tooth .
Otherwise , I have everything dialed in and ready to go so ... woo hooo
Attachment 248039
Success .. finally
Went out after dinner and made a few more gears , one more out of acetal plastic just because .
And the one I need from a piece of stress proof I found laying around
The blank I cut the gear in was long enough to saw out 5 gears , leaving three extras to play with .
So I tried doing a case harden with some cherry red on the off chance I'll ever need a hardened gear .
It went ok , warped the gear just a tiny bit , but if it had been a gear I was going to use I'd have left enough meat to true it back up after .
I feel no need to harden the gears I'll be using .
A few lessons learned .
Everything has to be spot on to make a good gear . From the cutter to the blank if one dimension is wrong your gear is going to wrong .
Same goes with your set up , if your cutter isn't centered perfect to blank .... your gear won't be right . Cut depth has to be perfect as well
Of course how perfect you want your gears to be is really dependant on the application. In my case I wanted them to be as perfect as I could make them so as not to ruin surface finish on my lathe .
Would I do this again ? Well for the most part yes .
The only thing I probably wouldn't do is make my own cutter unless the one I needed was very expensive or it was something I needed to make asap.
Otherwise I'd just buy a cutter ( or the whole set )
So now I can make a new tumbler and be able to make the spindle that started this , it's gonna feel a bit anti-climatic. I spent more time just making the cutter then the rest of the work is going to take
Attachment 248153
Nice looking gear!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |