RepackboxTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyADvertise here
WidenersInline FabricationLee PrecisionRotoMetals2

Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Help with PID.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    218

    Help with PID.

    Anyone have any idea why a PID would turn off power to a melting pot. I raised the temp to clear a frozen pour spout. Looked back about two minutes later and the temp os decreasing at about 5 degrees a minute. Power is still on and the display is functioning.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    5,480
    Could be a couple of different things.

    Verify output voltage is 110vac-120vac (plug a lamp into the outlet)

    Yes ? - bad heating element in pot
    No - next step

    Get a volt meter.
    Measure that the SSR has 3-32 vdc on the control input.

    No - improper setting on PID or if was working then failed PID
    Yes - next step

    Verify voltage at SSR Term # 1 (line side) is 110vac-120vac

    No - check fuse if you have one or possible broken wire
    Yes - next step

    Verify voltage at SSR term # 2 (load side) is 110vac - 120vac

    No - faulty SSR - replace and retest
    Yes - next step

    Plug lamp into outlet and verify it works

    Yes - bad heating element on pot or faulty pot side wiring
    No - faulty output plug/wiring

    That's a quick check list.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    218
    Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    slim1836's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    1,206
    Quote Originally Posted by shootinfox2 View Post
    Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????
    Operator error?

    Slim
    DISCLAIMER: This is a generic comment. It is not directed at any specific human
    being, real or fictional. The comments in this message speak directly to the
    TOPIC no matter the quoted clips - and nothing else. If I have not typed your
    name, specifically, into the message, it IS NOT ABOUT YOU.

  5. #5
    Vendor Sponsor

    Smoke4320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Right here ..at least I was a minute ago
    Posts
    4,355
    Tear in the space time continuum.. Sounds like a loose wire/ connection.
    I would be very leary of walking away from that plugged up
    I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!

    http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH

    Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

    PULSAR night vision and thermal dealer !!!
    PM me for a good deal

    I am not crazy my mom had me tested

    Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
    and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    218
    I disassembled the whole thing to clear the spout freeze. A mystery metal had locked the pour spout solid. Had to use a torch to melt it out. Cleaned everything while I had it apart. Reassembled it all and it works fine. Could have been a loose wire, but the gremlin is gone for now. I never leave equipment alone while in use. Learned that lesson long ago.
    Fox

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 40-82 hiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    514
    Does your PID have a variable defining a maximum temp, beyond which it shuts off the electricity to the pot? Just curious if that could be the issue...

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    218
    Don’t know. It is the stock PID from Magma that came with the Master Caster. Could be.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,115
    I've got a jld612 (1 of 3 PID's I use) that does a temp nose dive after it comes off auto tune. I wasn't happy with the overshoot and under after auto tune. Tried setting PID parameters by hand and said heck with it. Use it as a simple thermostat. Less cycling and wear and tear on SSR. Only two cycles on and off while Hi-Tek baking. Temp goes from 388-400. Best bond yet bullet to coating.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    I've got a jld612 (1 of 3 PID's I use) that does a temp nose dive after it comes off auto tune. I wasn't happy with the overshoot and under after auto tune. Tried setting PID parameters by hand and said heck with it. Use it as a simple thermostat. Less cycling and wear and tear on SSR. Only two cycles on and off while Hi-Tek baking. Temp goes from 388-400. Best bond yet bullet to coating.
    Can you reset to factory settings, do an auto-tune and see if it works properly? I've had an Auber PID act weird and when I checked every single setting I found that some were set improperly. I just reset to factory, did auto-tune and all was great.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,115
    Quote Originally Posted by NineInchNails View Post
    Can you reset to factory settings, do an auto-tune and see if it works properly? I've had an Auber PID act weird and when I checked every single setting I found that some were set improperly. I just reset to factory, did auto-tune and all was great.
    Did all that and it still nose dived. For the 9 minute bake of Hi-Tek it does a great job and cycles twice. Why make it hard on myself?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    896
    Quote Originally Posted by shootinfox2 View Post
    Thanks Hatch. Will look into it. Shut it down for lunch, went back out in the shop and everything is working. .?????
    F'n Magic

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check