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Thread: Any advice on assembling a kit?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    You will probably need a couple of wood Chisels , ( 1/2" and 1/4" ) , a Razor Knife, some Files both Mill and Bastard, some Red Lipstick, a flat scraper and the usual Screwdrivers , A bench Vise, some clamps and
    Maybe Pliers, and a Mallet.
    You are correct about leaving the Dremel tool on the shelf.
    It is VERY Rare that I ever use one when making or Fitting a stock.
    But some kits will require you to use a drill for some stuff, but mostly just for drilling pilot holes for screws.
    I wish I had my shop done, and I could build my Traditions Hawken at the same time along with you.
    There are so many things that I do when building a rifle, they have just become second nature.
    I can not remember everything , until I am actually doing it.
    But , Hay
    We are all here for you, either on the Forum, or by PM if that works for you.
    You will need a selection of Sandpapers like 100 , 150 & 220 Grit for wood.
    Also some Black Wet and Dry sandpaper in 100, 150 ,220 320 & 600 for polishing the barrel.
    For that you wrap the sandpaper around the files for draw Filing with light machine oil.
    Last edited by LAGS; 08-31-2019 at 01:07 AM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    I have assembled one of the first 100 T/C Hawken kits a racing buddy gave me. It had great instructions with it and I have pretty much followed them with the "kits" from various suppliers and then made several slug guns from scratch. Here's what I do.
    - Check all the parts inventory to make sure they are there. Also check to see if breech plug is installed?
    - I fit the barrel first. I bought a set of barrel scrappers, unless you are magical......do NOT use chisels down the length where barrel fits.
    - When the barrel is all the way aft (Navy term) then use razor sharp chisels to fit the tang and make sure the butt of the breech plus has no gaps. I use a stolen tube of my wife's bright red lipstick to do final fitting.
    - Then fit the nipple area weather a powder drum or the snail type. I bought a set of small carving razor sharp knives at Rockler, dam they were expensive.
    - Then fit the side plate weather percussion or flint, usually kits ae pretty good, again carve slowly!
    - If slot is cut for trigger give it a trial fit otherwise mark stock so cock falls when tripper is pulled. Make sure you can pull to full cock, etc.
    - Fit butt plate and trigger guard then assemble the parts fully and go to the range and test fire it. Do that before you make it pretty just in case.
    - If all is well, then install cleaning rod and any other parts.
    - Finish the metal and wood to YOUR liking, reassemble carefully.
    John

    PS Buy scrappers from Gunline in the LA area, knives and chisels from a "real" wood working supply store like Rockler's and finally get some sort of wise to hold the wood so it won't mark it. Good luck.
    Last edited by oldracer; 08-31-2019 at 02:12 AM. Reason: add info

  3. #23
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Hmm, my late father in law was a carver. Will have to see if my wife ended up with any of his tools or if they all disappeared into the bottomless well of sister in law's craziness.
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    This thread made me think about the first ML kit I ever built.
    That was when I was 18 years old, 47 years ago back in 1972.
    I was living in a one bedroom apartment, with no shop and basically no tools.
    I didn't have a Bench Vise, so I used Carpenters Clamps that I found at a Yard Sale to clamp the stock and later the barrel to the top of the Breakfast Bar in the kitchen.
    The kit was a TC .45 Cal Hawken.
    The rifle came out really nice, and shot really well.
    My Grandfather was a Gunsmith, and the last 10 years of his life built nothing but Black Powder Rifles, from Scratch, including making his own barrels.
    He passed away when I was 13, so I never got to spend much time watching him build his rifles.
    But what I did get to see when I was a kid, inspired me to make stuff with my own hands.
    My Grandmother gave all his tools and Rifles to the gun club he belonged to , so they could auction them off to support the club.
    So , I got none of his stuff.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Apparently my wife did get some of the tools. I will have to use as many as I can. It will be nice to do so and think of him while I work on the stock. He made several full size carousel horses from scratch, one of which h is in our house.
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I too would have loved building rifles and other stuff with my Grandfathers tools.
    Especially the tools he built himself like carving Chisels and special Jigs.
    But I guess my grandmother did not think of us Grandkids, since none of her sons followed in my grandfathers hobbies or interest, or she thought we were just too young to be able to ever use them.
    But the two clubs he belonged to were able to make upgrades to their meeting clubhouse and their ranges .
    I don't have any Kids, so what will happen to my stuff, I do not know.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I "browned" my barrel when I did my kit back in the 90s. I believe it was Birchwood Casey "Plumb" that I used. Its a nice medium brown color.

    redhawk

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I have Browned several Rifles with the Birchwood Casey Plumb Finish.
    I was happy with the results , and will probably be using it again on all three of my TC Hawken's that I am rebuilding and re-finishing.
    One thing I like about the Birchwoods is, It is Carried by my local Gun Stores so I don't have to order it and wait.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master AntiqueSledMan's Avatar
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ID:	249114Hello Brewer12345m

    I have browned a few barrels using Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown, the first I heated the barrel with a propane torch and it turned out kind of blotchy. The later ones I simply heated the barrel in the wife's oven to 350 deg. That worked much better. Attached is the Squirrel Rifle my son did, he had to set the barrel & tang back nearly 1/8". He also used Mountain Rifle style sights instead of the original CVA adjustable sights, after which I changed mine to the same style. They are a fun little rifle & cost almost nothing to shoot, I've been shooting a .308 LEE cast ball with pretty good results.

    AntiqueSledMan

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check