Any advice on assembling a kit?

[brewer12345]

I won an auction for a CVA squirrel rifle kit from back in the day. I have never put a rifle kit together and would like to get it right. Any tips you would care to share on putting a kit together? How do I slick up the lock if needed? Bear in mind that I have zero experience with this process.

[pietro]

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G6MaVtRAU0

Here are 5 pages on how to assemble a muzzleloading rifle kit, complete with pics: http://riflestocks.tripod.com/50cal.html#TOP

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[waksupi]

When you think you've taken off enough wood, take off some more.

[Texas by God]

I highly recommend Browning the barrel instead of blueing it.

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[RU shooter]

Go slow and take your time . It should be enjoyable not a chore to try to get done quick and keep your hands off the dremel tool !

[Eddie2002]

Get a cheap set of files for shaping, don't use a wood rasp cause it takes off way too much wood. A scraper helps to get sanding marks out of the wood. Go slow and if you get tired put it down, don't rush. Most important is HAVE FUN DOING IT !!!!

[LAGS]

I prefer to buy the Screwdriver kits to Assemble rather than to buy the same rifle already finished.
It allows me to Add my personal touches to the rifle, and Half the work is already done for you.
But like it was said by others, take your time and step back and look at what you are doing, and most of all , "What you Plan to do next".
The work involved in assembling a functional and nice looking rifle are a far cry easier than building a rifle from parts or scratch.
But , Trust me on this.
You will get easily addicted to building or picking up used rifles to restore.
It isn't a cost issue , as much as it is a Pride issue.
You are going to be so Proud of what you build, even though it may not be Perfect.
But you will be Learning.
And that desire to Learn More, or do better work will take over you in a very short time.
Been fighting that issue for over 40 years.
I build rifles from scratch from time to time, but purchased three used rifles and two Rifle kits to keep me busy in my recent retirement.
Good luck on your project, and I think there are many here that will be able to fill in the blanks that YouTube can not answer.
But YouTube or even Books ( Remember those things ) can help you get going.

[KCSO]

The lock panels are NOT picture frames they are made to look that way by optical illusion. They taper down form the top and up from the bottom and the sharp sanding lines make them stand out. When you are done sanding sand some more.

And don't use the kit trigger if you want a good triggerpull.

[LAGS]

KSCO has good advice.
BUT.
This is your First Build.
I would Advise that you stick with what is in the Kit for NOW.
You have to learn to walk before you can Run.
And with your newfound skills, Understanding, and knowledge, you can always go back and do upgrades later.
That was in reference to Upgrading the trigger right of the bat.

[Gtek]

I try to make final finish of the metal and wood the last thing that occurs. Barrel/Tang, lock, then trigger but kind of keeping all in mind at once. A CVA kit IIRC will be pretty close on barrel set but ease into side plate area with hammer and nipple contact as focus point. Caution- The "WOOD" they used can be about like Balsa, goes away quick, slow and easy! Sometimes they needed a little carving out under lock due to stock contact with internals (tumbler/sear). Then you can get into trigger and sear contact stuff. I have a cap and a rock in the Squirrel, cannot get my pumpkin head down in sights. NIB Traditions 32 sitting here waiting to be played with, lock plate set too deep in front and hammer contact could be made a whole bunch better, waiting. Just go slow, think ahead two or ten moves and enjoy the ride.

[LAGS]

Gtek is correct about the wood being soft or Fibrous.
The Kit Stocks are a lot softer than the Blanks I buy to make my own stocks.
But if fit correctly, they work fine.
But sometimes I pay half as much for a good Blank as I do for the whole Rifle Kit.

[indian joe]

Gtek is correct about the wood being soft or Fibrous.
The Kit Stocks are a lot softer than the Blanks I buy to make my own stocks.
But if fit correctly, they work fine.
But sometimes I pay half as much for a good Blank as I do for the whole Rifle Kit.

That has changed! ("progress" I guess) CVA kits I put together 20yrs ago were some HARDwood (beech maybe?) - way tougher wood to work than the couple of curly maple stocks I have done

I hot oil bent three ML stocks a couple years back to suit my boofhead and the CVA was miles away the toughest to do.

[brewer12345]

This kit is marked 83 on the barrel, which I suppose to be the year it was made, so an older kit.

[Tom W.]

I had a .32 caliber kit once. My buddy did most of the work, because he was good at it. I did leave the barrel "in the white" and it browned beautifully after a year or so....

[LAGS]

Natural Patina is always nice on a rifle.
But I cant wait for it to brown on it's own.
But there are several ways to speed up the process.

[brewer12345]

I live in a very dry climate, so natural browning would take forever. Either I will cold blue or do some sort of browning.

[LAGS]

Smear the barrel with Vinegar and let it sit outside for a week or two.
It will patina more quickly if it doesn't get rained on.
Buff it down lightly with steel wool, and apply more vinegar to keep the process going.

[brewer12345]

So we want it to rust? I thought that was what we are trying to protect against.

[LAGS]

Browning and Actually Bluing is a form of Rust.
Example.
Take a brand new shovel all nice and shiny.
Use it in the yard to dig some holes ,then stand it outside.
It will get a thin layer of rust on it over time.
Then next time you use it, the rust wears off.
Then again set it outside where it is not going to get Too wet like from direct rain.
It will rust again.
Every time the process is repeated, the surface of the metal oxidizes and forms a darker Patina, and sometimes even a form of Bluing.
You will eventually see that unless the Bare Metal is exposed thru the patina, Like By Scratching the surface, or getting water on it, Red Scaly metal destroying Rust will no longer appear.
Buff off any loose rust and oil the metal.
Putting Oil on that Patina will really protect you metal.
The process can be speeded up by applying a form of Acid, Like Vinegar that itself will not eat the metal rapidly.
Other Acids will work also like Nitric Acid, Citric Acid ,and even Hydrochloric Acid if it is greatly reduced with water.
But the acid must be Neutralized or it will keep on rusting.
Read up on Slow Rust Bluing.
My rifles look like an old Rusty Battleship when I am doing the Slow Rust bluing, and it is neutralized or converted to Black Rust by Boiling in distilled water.
Bluing or Browning Chemicals are just a Quicker and more Controlled method of making the finish you want.

[brewer12345]

Interesting. I may end up using a browning chemical.

What tools will I need? Looks like sandpaper and sanding block. Will leave the Dremel on the shelf. Anything else?