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Thread: Reload primers

  1. #1
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    Reload primers

    I had talk about reload my own primers and ask to put in a different post. This is what works for me. for small and large box primers. I do not know if someone else post this. If they did ok. For me, you take your primer apart and clean out the pocket in it and then take a flat punch to take out the dent in it,I place it on a flat hard steel. then you use cap gun caps that is on the roll .I found Lengens ,I know I maybe did not spell it right . But you get them from Walmart .That is where I got my or on line. They are made in Germany. Check the ones you get because some are made in China and not as good. you also need 4 F black powder or 3 F black powder. You cut one of the caps out and have it fit inside the primer pocket. Before you put it in. you take the Black powder and put enough in to cover the bottom of the primer and then you put the cap over it and then you put the anvil back in, I use a piar of needle nose pliers to press the anvil in, you will know if you put too much powder if the anvil dose not sit flush like it should.then you have your loaded box primer. As for shot gun primers. What I did had someone make up a tool that will fit the primer in and sit flush in it. A round stock of steel will work and make it easy to drill a hole in it to just fit the cone of the primer in it they use a laded hole to drill the hole. then you will have primer not sit flush the rim will be sticking out. that is when you put a groove in it that way the primer sit flush on the stock you use a laded is use for that. then you take the primer and sit it in the tool with the cone face up and take a small punch that will fit in the flash hole of the primer and take it and tap out the anvil and cup out . That is why to drill the hole all the way in your tool you make .You clean the cup out and then take the dent out. Then you take a light round paper that you can use a paper punch and put it in the bottom of the cone of the primer to cover the flash hole ,then you put the anvil in I use needle nose pliers make sure you have the point of the anvil is face you and then you use the same black powder you use on the box primers and you fill up the cone with it ,I made a small scoop out of wood to use to put the powder in the cone also use it for the box primers. then you take a cap you then place it in the cup and then put it on the cone you have the cone sit inside of your tool like it will be loaded in the hull for loading. then to press the cup in the cone you use a C clamp that have a close to flat on the main frame of it . Be careful on this part they do go off on you. I had some did ,just keep it away from your face. You are on your own on all of this. You take the tool with the primer in it with the C clamp you press the cup in the cone till it is flush. then you done . There is one thing I found is that as long the powder in what ever you load is very close to the flash hole in your brass or in your hull you have no problem for it to fire. It is rifle cases that I find there is a delay for the round to go off you get a hang fire. I had seen what Larry Gibson done with use of Dacron to keep the powder close to the flash hole will work for this part. then you have your primers in case of if it comes to that you have a hard time to find primers. Someone on here told me in the past to just use the primers once for reload because the metal will get too thin for being flat out. Maybe someone else posted some of this. But just posted about since I was ask. also with the use of them this way you will need to clean your gun after use because of the black powder use, Unless someone else know more about it, that you do not. I came up with this when primers was start to hard to find and did not know if will run out and did not want to wait the last of my stock is out. It works for me and will do it if my stock is out because of if we go through what we did about 3 to 4 years ago. Now I am ready if need be. I rather use the factory primers. and stock up like I been. But if it come to I will be able to reload my own.I save all my spent primers. There is a thing about shot gun primers. There is some are US size and some are Europe size so keep track of them when you save them and what hulls you got them off of.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    Thanks,Trapper. Good to know.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for posting this for us!
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    You all welcome if it can help someone so much the better .If not sure of some thing of what I wrote, PM me, I see if I can help better.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

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    Thanks trapper. Lot of good information.

  6. #6
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    .I found Lengens ,I know I maybe did not spell it right . But you get them from Walmart .That is where I got my or on line. They are made in Germany.
    I use them when making #11 Perc Caps (I use a cup forming tool made by MannyCA and Popcan metal).

    Anyway, proper spelling is Legends or Legends of the wild west.
    I don't think Walmart has them available anymore?
    But they are still available from Hobby or Toy stores
    They look like these...
    https://www.mainstreettoys.com/produ...ends-roll-caps


    And I know someone will ask and the MannyCA tool
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...p-forming-tool
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I do things slightly different. One important tool is a paintstick with drilled hole to hold the primers. It makes anvil removal and insertion easy. Other difference is I put the rollcap in the cup, then anvil, then fill assembled cup with 4Fg powder, and then a light blast of hairspray sticks it together. They seem to ignite better that way.
    As for percussion caps I made a press mounted tool to form caps from soda cans.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ercussion-caps

    Its nice to know other folks are thinking primers and caps, now to figure out how to make good smokeless powder.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    Paragraphs please?

    Old eyes have a real hard time with a block of text like that.
    NRA Benefactor.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    I had read this post http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...th-old-primers it is not like some think. Also just to let know that it is best to only reload them once because the metal will get too thin when take out the dent. You will not take off your fingers, if you watch what you do.It was only the shotgun primers that had went off on me when reload them. Also I forgot to post on about the hang fire on rifle rounds for put dacron is because if the powder is not on the flash hole that is why of the hang fire.When I tested it and made it work was in a 22-250 round I load everything like you normal will with regular primers. for handgun and shotgun no problems of use like normal.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I would just horde $1000 worth of primers and call it a day.
    EDG

  11. #11
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt Fingers View Post
    Paragraphs please?

    Old eyes have a real hard time with a block of text like that.
    Amen!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master pertnear's Avatar
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    I don't want to seem like a wet-blanket here, but isn't this pretty dangerous? I understand that we are probably talking about "prep-ing" for an emergency situation. Seems like a primer based on a cap & black powder is not very stable & could ignite during the reloading process or even with the rough handling of the loaded round. No criticism intended & I do admire the ingenuity!
    Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, and weak men create hard times.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Interesting read in any case. Thanks!

    I like the commentary from Main Street Toys.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just thought to add this. 22reloader sells a Forrester like percussion cap maker for 44.95. I have seen one and its all steel and could last a lifetime. They also sell a primer mix called prime-all. If you want to use the toy caps. You can have good results if you harvest the dots right off the paper. . You put the role caps in water for a min. Then you can easily pull off the very thin top paper . All the dots are exposed. Any sharp knife can go right down the line and lift dots off the paper. You do this while wet. I have use as few as 4 dots and as many as 15 in percussion caps. The 4 dots in revolvers and the higher amts. in sidelocks. If you do primers you would load them wet and seat in the case. They are safe until dry.
    n.h.schmidt

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    I would just horde $1000 worth of primers and call it a day.
    This ^^^

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check