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Thread: smelting pot bottom poor valve with store bought parts.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Apr 2010
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    smelting pot bottom poor valve with store bought parts.

    So my cast iron pot has developed a crack in the bottom. I do not want to test how long that crack will hold lead. So I decided to cut a propanr tank in half and remove the valve to make a bottom poor casting pot.
    My problem is I dont have a lot of access to tools/spare parts hardware to make the valve parts. Right now its just a 90' black pipe to 3/8" pipe . It fits the turkey fryer well.
    The local hardware stores are awful for any decent selection of usuable items.

    So anyone have a bottom poor valve they assembled with off the shelf store bought parts?

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NyFirefighter357 View Post
    yeah but he made some of his valve parts on a lathe


    "My brother has a small lathe that I performed the tapering of the shaft. This could also be accomplished with a grinder and a 45 degree jig, then put in a drill or drill press and finished up with a file and sand paper. I started with a piece of 5/8 inch all thread, turned the lower section down to 1/2 inch to remove the threads, then finished with the taper.

    Shad "

    Im trying to do a 100% off the shelf pot/bottom poor valve

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Have never tried this, but you got me thinking.

    On the end or your pipe adapt to a piece of 3/8” copper or stainless tube. Connect a piece of tube, then wrap the tube tightly with steel wire. The wire is to keep the tubing from kinking when you bend it, but as long as you’re wrapping make a handle. As long as the end of the tube is above the top of the melt the lead won’t run. Put a T on the end of the tube, the bottom is the spout the top allows air so the lead will clear the spout. Lower it to your ingot mold and it’ll run. Might get a little messy in practice, wear all your protective gear!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Have never tried this, but you got me thinking.

    On the end or your pipe adapt to a piece of 3/8” copper or stainless tube. Connect a piece of tube, then wrap the tube tightly with steel wire. The wire is to keep the tubing from kinking when you bend it, but as long as you’re wrapping make a handle. As long as the end of the tube is above the top of the melt the lead won’t run. Put a T on the end of the tube, the bottom is the spout the top allows air so the lead will clear the spout. Lower it to your ingot mold and it’ll run. Might get a little messy in practice, wear all your protective gear!
    im sure I will figure something out. Im just busy and lazy and Actually making stuff just does not get done. I have just about everything but a decent valve. If I had a lathe I would be done already. Dont know any machinist to call on with out paying way to much.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Use a close nipple 3/4" to fit tank and a coupler then a 3/8-3/4 adapter in the coupler. use a counter sink to cut angle and form matching angle on rod then lap together.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Idz's Avatar
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    Having smelted about 5000 lbs of range scrap in my propane tank pot I would be leery of a bottom pour pot. There is just too much junk in the scrap. Most of it floats on the lead but some sticks to the bottom until I scrape it loose.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Using a stand pipe about an inch or two long eliminates that problem.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    Having smelted about 5000 lbs of range scrap in my propane tank pot I would be leery of a bottom pour pot. There is just too much junk in the scrap. Most of it floats on the lead but some sticks to the bottom until I scrape it loose.
    if its stuck to the bottom I wont care much. I will flux my lead when casting anyway so Im not to concerned with that.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    Use a close nipple 3/4" to fit tank and a coupler then a 3/8-3/4 adapter in the coupler. use a counter sink to cut angle and form matching angle on rod then lap together.
    yeah starting to drift away from the elcheapo project. Trying to avoid buying more tools and stuff. I had the pipe scraps kicking around and have the rough parts for the valve works. Just not the actual valve "pintle seal/seat" set up... looks like I will have to chuck some stock up in the drill and file something down to size ? Also thinking of welding a large steel ball bearing I have to a rod and trying that ?

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Pablo 5959's Avatar
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    I’m happy I decided not to go that route after rendering 16 buckets of range scrap.
    I learned using a round point trenching shovel to remove the junk is a very good thing. It works good for stirring in flex too.
    This keeps your face out of the pot and gives you a little more distance in case something pops.
    Pablo

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Getting closer
    https://youtu.be/kBAOfkhrKoA

    I can get a good seal with hand pressure after lapping.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Getting even closer

    Last edited by mac1911; 09-22-2019 at 08:27 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check