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Thread: Still getting rust

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold VEARL's Avatar
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    Still getting rust

    Bought a t.c. Hawking flintlock. Put barrel in boiling hot water and let it sit for a few minutes. Then i started pumping it with a patch. Got it finally dried with no signs of rust and oiled it down.. Went back to check it today. Once again their is rust. What can i use to get rid of the rust in the barrel.?Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Man super6's Avatar
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    How long have you had the rusting problem? What kind of oil are you using, Are you using detergent to wash the barrel then a hot water rinse???
    I got in trouble for using a cuss word The other word for donkey. Leave it alone joe nothing good will happen!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    You might try CLR (calcium, lime,and rust)..Is your barrel rusted from breech to muzzle,or just in the breech?.If is is just in the breech I would run a tight fitting brush plumb to the bottom of the barrel,and just spin it in place till it clears out..

  4. #4
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    Boiling water can cause it to flash rust. Tepid soap and water is gonna be a lot better, and then after its dry I follow with patches with Rem Oil. Before shooting it again, I will remove the oil with a few patches soaked with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. This is what has worked for me for many years, but I'm sure you'll get a lot of other opinions on this. I don't recommend boiling water at all.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    I just use cold water, use alcohol to get the oil out then clean it. Dry with patches then use alcohol or WD40 to help get out water in the threads and other spots. dry and oil well, check the next day. Rig grease works well too.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    Remember anything that removes rust will take off the blueing to so be careful.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShooterAZ View Post
    Boiling water can cause it to flash rust. Tepid soap and water is gonna be a lot better, and then after its dry I follow with patches with Rem Oil. Before shooting it again, I will remove the oil with a few patches soaked with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. This is what has worked for me for many years, but I'm sure you'll get a lot of other opinions on this. I don't recommend boiling water at all.
    Boiling water causes flash rust in all of my barrels (9) last count,which is why I too use tepid not hot too for the last 30yrs /Ed

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I had a barrel that kept Rusting like you mentioned.
    I degreases the barrel with Acetone, then Boiled it in Distilled Water for a half hour.
    You cant use Tap Water because it contains minerals that will cause more rust.
    I dried and recleaned the bore with Degreased steel wool on a cleaning Jag .
    It still might have red rust in it, but any Flaky rust will be turning to a black powder.
    Degreases the barrel again with Acetone and boiled it again in the distilled water.
    What you are doing is Basically turning the Red rust to Black Oxide.
    This is the same way you do Slow rust Bluing, but you are not adding any Acid to promote new rust.
    But you are converting any existing rust to a non active rust.
    Once you boil the barrel enough times, you clean with Acetone, then oil it really good.
    The Bore may be a little darker, but that will wear off with cleaning and shooting over time.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I've been using very hot tap water and shaved Ivory soap ( never a detergent) to clean my T/C with, followed by plain hot tap water to rinse. My water heater puts out some very hot water. The barrel will flash rust is just a few minutes on the inside. I used to use WD- 40 but since then I use patches with RemOil on them after the barrel has been dried. It works better and doesn't harden to an orange crud that is almost impossible to remove.
    When shooting at the range sometimes I'll run a patch soaked with Hoppe's #9 down the bore and another dry one or two behind it, just because...
    Tom
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I stopped using hot water for that reason. I used tap water followed by WD40 for a long time. Now days I use Ed's Red to clean it. And I oil the bore before storage. Before shooting I use alcohol to get all the oils out. If I don't pull the clean out plug then I put a plastic tube on a fitting in place of the nipple to get solvent/alcohol through the firing channel.

    When I used CLP for my cleaning and storing it was not unusual for a patch to come out rust colored due to the CLP.

    You also need to clean the patent breech chamber as well. If not it will rust up and show on your patches.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Idz's Avatar
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    Ballistol is a water soluble oil that works well on muzzleloaders

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy

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    I use tap water and a bit of Ivory liquid dish detergent. I use Pro Shot brushes the ones with brass wire. I clean the patent breech with a .30 caliber brush as it is tapered and a bore brush does not get in there. Never hot water. I dry the barrel with an air hose and coat it with Kroil to store it. I wash it out with alcohol before shooting. While shooting I clean it with Ballistol. I remove the nipple before washing the bore and re-apply anti seize to the threads after they are dry. Bob

    UPDATE: Seems that Breakfree Collector is much better than Kroil to protect a gun barrel. so I'm going to start using it.
    Last edited by Buzzard II; 09-06-2019 at 09:47 PM.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master



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    VERAL:

    Ok, what type of powder are you shooting? Pyrocr@p? Clearshot? Shockey's gold? 777? Real black powder rarely causes this degree of after rust. A thorough cleaning with warm water and soap removes about 95% of chlorate (corrosive) salts from black powder substitutes, but that last 5% can continue to cause rusting. A second cleaning a few days after the first then a good wipe down with an anti-rust lube like RIG or Automobile ATF will usually prevent more rusting.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    I always clean with hot tap water and brush followed by dry patch and then immediately with a patch soaked in alcohol. The alcohol evaporates taking any water with it providing the barrel/metal is hot. Then immediately followed by a couple of passes with an oiled patch. Never a problem with rust even in my humid climate.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use warm water, not hot. Then RemOil patches. No rust here in the swamp.
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  16. #16
    Gentleman,

    I've always used hot tap water with "Dreft Baby Soap" for cleaning, followed by hot clear tap water patches for rinse.
    I always pour a couple quarts of HOT tap water through a funnel down the muzzle after the rinse patches.
    Mine are all hooked breach so I let them stand for an hour, muzzle down then run a patch full of
    Thompson Center Bore Butter through the bore. Has worked for me the last 40 years.

    AntiqueSledMan.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    I stopped using hot water for that reason. I used tap water followed by WD40 for a long time. Now days I use Ed's Red to clean it. And I oil the bore before storage. Before shooting I use alcohol to get all the oils out. If I don't pull the clean out plug then I put a plastic tube on a fitting in place of the nipple to get solvent/alcohol through the firing channel.

    When I used CLP for my cleaning and storing it was not unusual for a patch to come out rust colored due to the CLP.

    You also need to clean the patent breech chamber as well. If not it will rust up and show on your patches.
    Ed's Red is fine to finish up, but water is needed to fully neutralize the salts of nitrate.
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  18. #18
    Boolit Master





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    Quote Originally Posted by Idz View Post
    Ballistol is a water soluble oil that works well on muzzleloaders
    I use ballistol mixed 50/50 with water,no rust problem here,everything rust in East Texas,but not my muzzleloaders, I do check them a lot.just to be sure.good luck.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I clean with warm water first, then patch with a mix of 1:1:1 Murphy's oil soap: Isopropal alcohol: Hydrogen Peroxide. Followed by another warm water rinse. Then patch with oil of 1:1 ATF:Kerosene

    No rust on my Flinter in 25 years.

    redhawk

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  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use hot tap water followed by several patches to dry then Hoppes no.9.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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