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Thread: A quick ammo box

  1. #1
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    A quick ammo box

    Free time can be a dangerous thing ....

    I hate the cheap plastic ammo boxes . So I fired up my crappy table saw and whipped up an ammo box for the 32-20

    I am not a wood worker I don't have a good table saw nor do have a dado blade set . I do have access to a good saw that I'll be using for the next batch .... I need five or six more for now

    An hour's worth of work later and a whole bunch of glue
    And I have this little guy .. I made specific for a shoot to hold 55 rounds .
    I used some reclaimed American chestnut .
    I still need to make a handle of some sort

    One thing I do want to do is do a dovetail joint ... anyone here ever use the jig harbor frieght sells ?

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Niiiiiice!
    "My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
    Leonard Ravenhill

  3. #3
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    Not from Harbor Freight, but I have used the old Craftsman's jig. Even though I'm bubba personified, it does make a pretty good joint. I suspect they are all almost the same.
    Go forth and conquer!

  4. #4
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    Ever try a box joint? they are very very handsome and you make the jig yourself. I like them even better than a dovetail joint.

    Good job. Threads like this make the special projects forum my favorite on this site.

    You need sand paper and 2 weeks with a rag and can of linseed oil.

  5. #5
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    Thanks

    I did think about a box joint , and might do a couple if I don't have to put a bunch of time into making a sled and a jig .
    If I had a decent table saw I wouldn't be adverse to doing the work .
    But I plan on dumping the one I have off as soon as i find something decent in my price range

    This weekend I'm going to make a trip to the harbor frieght and pick up a dovetail jig and give it a try .

    I haven't even given what to use for a finish any thought yet .
    I have some walnut and spalted maple to use as well and will have to give it some thought ... quick and easy is the order of the day .

  6. #6
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    urethane.

    If you want easy and great, but not quick, I really like linseed oil.

  7. #7
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    Nice and linseed oil then a good paste WAX and your set.
    I'm not to good at woodworking just lots of ideals.lol
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    urethane.

    If you want easy and great, but not quick, I really like linseed oil.
    Equal parts of oil based polyurethane, boiled linseed oil or Tung oil, mineral spirits add some dark Old English scratch cover to tint it.
    This is a modified oil finish similar to a danish oil finish. This penetrates into the wood and doesn't chip off like poly alone. This works great on all wood working , I use it on guns stocks, I did my hallway floor & stairs with it as well. It's like Lin-speed gunstock finish except the poly allows the finish to build up faster, you can apply several coats a day.

    Here's an article about using this mix from the The wood worker: https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/art...varnish-blend/

    The standard mixture is 1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil or Tung Oil, 1/3 thinner (mineral spirits, paint thinner, turpentine, naptha), and 1/3 varnish (poly, spar, etc..). Another advantage to mixing your own home brew is the fact that you will have total control over the finishes properties. Want a more close to the wood look and feel? Add more oil. Want more protection? Add more varnish. Want to make the finish easier to spread around the surface? Add more thinner. The possibilities are endless and you’ll be able to customize the finish to your needs and the needs of the project.

    Here's another article with a video. Oil based finish basics http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/oil-...finish-basics/

    I make a quart of this and seal it in a jar, it has a long shelf life. Just remember those rags can self combust, lay them flat or better yet put them in a can with metal lid outside.

    Nice job
    Last edited by NyFirefighter357; 08-24-2019 at 06:32 AM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Suggestions above sound great. Just FYI for ease of linseed oil: you wipe a film on, as much as the wood will take, but not any extra. Leave it overnight. repeat again and again for two weeks to build up the finish. That's why it's easy (you can't mess it up), but takes forever.

    The mix above sounds great too, I just like simplicity tho. I already have a garage full of chemicals

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    This is a timely thread for me, after reading it I went to our weekly local auction house, and I bought a nice old Craftsman table saw,
    for $35 !!!!!!! This saw is a quality piece of machinery, with a heavy cast iron table , not aluminum and plastic like my current crappy discount store saw. I'm kind of excited to build a couple of projects with it this winter.

  11. #11
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    Just be careful with those linseed oil rags, they will spontaneously combust if left balled up, soak them in water until you can spread them out to dry somewhere where they won't do damage.
    "People in Arizona carry guns," said Detective David Ramer, a Chandler police spokesman. You better be careful about who you are picking on...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnug View Post
    Just be careful with those linseed oil rags, they will spontaneously combust if left balled up, soak them in water until you can spread them out to dry somewhere where they won't do damage.
    burn them when you're done for the day - problem solved.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Neat.

    Formbys tung oil is my choice for small items. Linseed oil takes forever to dry and collects dust too much in my opinion. Linseed oil is great for shovel handles and battle rifles though.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master trails4u's Avatar
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    I smell a small side-business in your future!?

    I'd be mighty tempted by some custom boxes for 45/70, .43 Spanish and 11x58R Werndl.
    "Do not follow where the path might lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail" Ralph Waldo Emerson

  15. #15
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    $24 and a coupon later I have a dovetail jig
    I couldn't bring myself to buy a harbor frieght dovetail cutter . The tool store here in town will have them and I'll pick one up Monday .

    Finish ... well you guys sure have some good ideas .
    But I'll be honest , I am about half tempted to just give it a good heavy coat of mineral oil and call it good .... but that could be the lazy in me talking .
    I'll give it some more thought once I get a few more made , I don't want to add any color or gloss . I am a bit partial to natural colors .

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Ok....Why 55 rounds?
    Don Verna


  17. #17
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    Ina previous life before I went over to the dark(steel) side I used Watco Danish oil(is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish) for many items.
    This included baby cradles, gun stocks, lap and hammered dulcimers.
    One selling point I found with Watco was that light scratches could be repaired easily by fine sanding using Watco oil and finishing as was originally done.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Easy repair like kywoodworker describes is a benefit of formbys tung oil. You can get it in gloss and semi gloss.

  19. #19
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    55 rounds ... a club I shoot at does a reduced range silhouette . 50 rounds for score and 5 sighters

  20. #20
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    I like CA glue as a finish. Easily applied, durable, and can be left satin or buffed to a high gloss. I usually apply 3 coats.

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