doe anyone use mS moly in there pan bullet lubes. How much do you use?
doe anyone use mS moly in there pan bullet lubes. How much do you use?
When I was coating jacket bullets 200 at a time it was a very small amount Like 2 grns once the sidewinders drum and steel shot was coated. Same with the wax sealer. I don't believe it will take very much in lube to accomplish what you want.
We used moly in some insterments and gages at work, its kind of a pain to work with as its a dry powder and very light it gets everywhere. impregnates surface pores making it hard to clean up, and discolors most any where it gets.
I've never pan lubed, but I always moly jacketed bullets, use Lyman Super Moly on cast bullets and add moly to home made bullet lube. Obviously, I'm a believer. Having never measured the amount I add to my bullet lube, I can't say how much. other than, enough to turn the lube black. I view making bullets as, more art than science...
Here a set of dippers may come in handy to measure the moly. One known to be to small and known size ten when blending keep track of the number of dips to where it looks right. A little bit foes a long ways
Thanks, I moly bullets for my 243AI. I do not target shoot much anymore and have a bag fully of moly.
I made a batch of pan lube 1# wax, 1# vasoline, 2 tbls. STP and 2tbls of paste wax with carnuba.
Does it matter what the pan lube mix is with the moly?
Don't do like I did when I started handloading. A much older friend and church member had me bring about 200 cast boolits for my .45 ACP. He put them in a tumbler and let it run for about two hours, then bagged them up and told me it was good to load them "as is."
Not knowing any better that's what I did.
When I next took the pistol to the range I shot about four rounds and had a failure to feed. I set that round aside, refilled the magazine and tried again. Two shots later the pistol wouldn't go into battery. I bumped the slide forward, fired, and again the same thing. This time I dropped the magazine, cleared the pistol and looked at the muzzle. It looked like silver spaghetti coming out of the muzzle.
The pistol went into the case and I started firing something else.
When I got home and finally got the pistol cleaned it dawned on me that I hadn't been told the whole procedure. I broke down all of the remaining loads and tumble lubed them in LAA. After they dried I reassembled the loads and they did just fine. Needless to say, I never tried that trick again.
I did get a tube of Lyman moly lube In a box of stuff another friend gave me. It did okay, but if it got on my clothes that's where it stayed. I wore disposable shirts and ready to trash pants until I used that stuff up.
I won't be getting any more......
Tom
μολὼν λαβέ
Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
I impact-coat my high velocity smokeless rifle bullets using the NECO moly-coat process & lube with Lyman Super Moly. I have stiffened up LSM with beeswax and lanolin in experimental batches. As far as using a solid like moly for pan lubing..alot of the old timers like Phill Sharpe, Matttern and Donaldson cautioned against pan lubing using graphite as the solids would tend to settle out and end up in bottom of lube pan. Mattern suggested using a hand cranked meat grinder to incorporate the graphite. Donaldson cautioned to keep stirring until mix had set...then using it in lubesizer. Not sure about the micro-fine moly..if it would remain suspended until set?
Why would you want to breathe moly smoke.
it gives the nitro a little boost, love the smell of fresh burnt powder
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |