My new Rolling Block Project.

[Keith]

I use a guillotine type cutter and cut a bunch of strips 1 inch wide but it relys on me keeping the edge of the roll flat with the top. Its a wide roll of paper and by the time the knife gets to the end the strip may be a bit wider or narrower.
I gather the strips , get them aligned and put a staple through one end then use the template to cut the angles.
I might experiment with ways like yours.
I turned up a copper slug today. Half is .397 and half .399. With the 397 in front it slides down the bore until the muzzle where the .399 hangs up. It can be pulled out with the fingers so its not much.
So Vic , you were right. Some GM barrels have a slight choke. Is this good or bad? I dont know but I might leave it there a bit longer. Its right at the muzzle so thats better that I thought.

[country gent]

The green river barrel on my 45-90 is tapered. The GR sitting here for the roller project is tapered. The Al Story barrel on the 45-70 on the is choked about .003 the last 4". The choked barrel you feel with the jag and patch easily. I believe taper or choke is a plus as it helps to keep the bullet tight in the rifling the full trip down. I believe my only Badger barrel has a taper in it also. This is why barrel makers ID the breech end. The taper running "backwards" isn't a good thing.

It is the nature of the shear type cutters to pull the paper as it cuts and its harder to hold since there's no clamp to lock it in place. The roller cutters have a clamp with 2 cams that lock hold the paper in place. A good sharp cutter will cut cleanly and accurately.

I use the Ed Cole 55 w paper in the roll 12" wide. I start by cutting sheet and marking edge against fence with a pencil. These are then stacked in sets of 5 sheets with fence mark up and aligned. This keeps the papers grain the same. I staple the back 2 corners close to the edge. I then cut the strips and again staple the back edge. Once the strips are cut I mount the angle guide to the table and against the fence. Set the stop fence to length. The first cut on the strip is eyeballed to put the angle on the square edge. It is then fed thru to the stop fence clamped and cut. I stack these in a box on edge. I can cut patches in the easy chair watching a movie. A couple hours produces a lot of patches. I have considered making an adjustable fence. Pivot point at front and a slotted leg and bolt to lock at correct angle. But the one I have and double faced tape works well.The first cut on the sheets is a eyeball trim cut to make sure all edges are the exact same

[Lead pot]

I have been getting the odd day in back on the range, but my groups are not improving. One day 1.5 mins, the next over 2 mins with the same load. I am trying to be consistant with my hold but something is changing. The rifle is only 11 pounds and the barrel is 1 inch across the flats.
I have noticed that there appears to be a slight tight spot a couple of inches from the muzzle. I can feel the patch hesitating just before it pops out. What affect would this have?
I am thinking of turning up a pin gauge to check.
The barrel is 34 inches long so I can cut a couple off if need be.

Keith the tight spot at the end of the muzzle could be a choke build in. Has it always been tight? if mot it could be lead build up. That will show up when you push a clean cotton patch through. If there is lead it will leave a gray streak on the white patch. Or it could be a carbon build up also. A clean bore the patch will come out just as white as it went in. In my case anyway it does.
Groups changing between range sessions is normal, fore me anyway. I blame it on the gremblin that follows me to the range.
Conditions will do this.

[Keith]

Right now the barrel is squeaky clean. I have been using Kroil and Turps. The tight spot has always been there and I have not worried about it. I am looking for excuses why I cant keep tight groups, like yours in the Frostbite match