While the barrel is off I thought I better mount the scope blocks.
Drilled a hole then left everything in place while swapping the drill bit for a blunt pointed thing I made to hold the tap handle in position.
I have had trouble before tapping shallow holes and not keeping the tap straight.
rebarrel rolling block 03 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
rebarrel rolling block 02 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
Drilling those little shallow holes vertically in exactly the right spots and threading them straight (especially on an expensive barrel) is an exercise in nervous tension at best, and a real horror show at worst.
I reworked a second drill by grinding the point flat and did my best to hone the flute bottoms like a milling cutter. I follow up the regular drill with this one to get the pointy part of the bottom of the hole dead flat. I’m lucky if I can start the hole with a plug tap, and for bottoming I use one that I’ve ground off the partial threads so it’s full-diameter and absolutely flat on the bottom.
One of those teeny-weeny Starrett tap handles helps the “feel” for when the tap has bottomed out.
Ah, the sweet relief when the job is done and the blocks are on!
I appreciate the posts and pics. I may refit and redo a Whitney RB someday.....
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You know, for what it is worth, us home gunsmiths are allowed to rehearse a few times things like fitting a barrel or D&T a barrel for scope bases. Use scrap to find the pitfalls, and or improve tooling. Few of us ( I should speak for myself) are skilled enough to be 100% perfect right out of the chute.
Chill Wills
I did not think of altering the drill bit but I did like you and ground one of the taps flat to get right down the hole. I will remember the drill trick for next time. (If there is one)Originally Posted by Bent Ramrod
Drilling those little shallow holes vertically in exactly the right spots and threading them straight (especially on an expensive barrel) is an exercise in nervous tension at best, and a real horror show at worst.
I reworked a second drill by grinding the point flat and did my best to hone the flute bottoms like a milling cutter. I follow up the regular drill with this one to get the pointy part of the bottom of the hole dead flat. I’m lucky if I can start the hole with a plug tap, and for bottoming I use one that I’ve ground off the partial threads so it’s full-diameter and absolutely flat on the bottom.
One of those teeny-weeny Starrett tap handles helps the “feel” for when the tap has bottomed out.
Ah, the sweet relief when the job is done and the blocks are on!
Great work Keith; keep the updates coming.
Keith it's hard to tap threads straight using a T handle. I just chuck a bottom tap in the drill press and turn the chuck by hand and holding slight pressure down.
I have reset the "clock springs" on my drill press and mill to neutral tension. (they stay where you let them at ). This makes tapping easier to do. I normally center drill, drill flatten the bottom drill lightly chamfer ad tap all with the drill chuck in the machine. Small taps can be turned by gripping the chuck bigger may need a rod that fits the key hole.
Grinding a tap flat its a good idea to give the first thread some cutting relief, a few strokes of a stone will do it. Also clear chips and swarf often when tapping blind holes. Another trick is to pack the hole with a wax type cutting fluid before tapping. this pushes the chips up and out as the tap displaces it. On threads where I want a good finish and fit I rough tap with a - .010 tap then finish with a on size tap.
Looks like a fun project. My soft spot is Rollers. May have missed your choice of chambers ... I have an original Remington sporter that began life as 40 ??? Then rechambered to 40-65 Winchester. Very fun shooting rifle.
Looking forward to your progress. Interesting project.
What type stocks do you have in mind?
Hi Keith, Now that its been shot how about some happy shots all put together. Vic
I tried that but it did not feel right. It was hard turning the belts and motor over as well so I hit on the method of keeping the tap straight and I could feel when it bottomed easier than by turning the chuck.
It came with a pistol grip stock that seems well made. Unusual design for a straight grip roller. Pics later.
Patience Vic
Getting used to the scope but I need to think about a Tang and Globe.
I have a tang sight that I think is a Hoke but these Rollers have a lot of drop in the tang and it looks like I will lose a lot of elevation. A Soule type sits the staff up higher. I am comparing it with a couple of Pedersoli,s I have. I was looking at a Baldwin but cant find much info on his website. Is there info and dimensions anywhere or do I have to contact him. Heilman sights have been mentioned but not recently.
A couple more pics with the stock on.
It came with a forend as well but contoured for a round barrel. I did not like the pale wood at first but its growing on me. Its different.
rebarrel rolling block 07 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
rebarrel rolling block 05 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
Well the first shoot started out OK but quickly went west. I was trying out different wad combinations but my wad punch is just a hammer hit one and is a bit small I think. The wads measure .405. I gave up and went home to clean out the lead mine. I put it down to gas cutting as my patch is long enough. I have a press mounted punch on its way from BACO . Its .410 so might make a difference. Also it will give a clean cut, not like my daggy old hand one.
I have the 45 cal punch cutting poly wads for my PP 45-70 and it works very well. No leading there.
I have my bench set up at about 120 yards from the target frame.
rebarrel rolling block 06 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05
Well it looks to be a keeper
My Wad punch arrived from BACO so I quickly cut some .060 poly wads. Filled some cases with 80 grains of Swiss FF and Wano FF to see the difference.
No lead fouling any more. The Swiss had little compression , the Wano a fair bit. Enough to leave .18 for the boolit.
Apart from the first shot I think they are two minute groups. If I can keep it sub two minutes at all ranges I will be happy. This is at 130 yds.
I was surprised how much higher the Wano shot at the same sight setting. I will have to chrony them as I have found in the past Wano to be slower. Might be the extra compression.
One thing about a scope , I can shoot at dots instead of having to use the black as an aiming mark and move the sights around.
rebarrel rolling block 08 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/141809689@N05/]
Keith wrote: " This is at 130 yds.
I was surprised how much higher the Wano shot at the same sight setting. I will have to chrony them as I have found in the past Wano to be slower. Might be the extra compression."
Likely the Wano does produce less velocity per grain of powder than the Swiss powder. At the range you tested, the slower load will print higher. This is due to the longer barrel time. The two trajectories will cross at some point down range and the faster will print higher on the target.
I want to add, that is a really good start! Nice job. And, the fact you take pictures is great.
Last edited by Chill Wills; 11-12-2019 at 10:28 AM.
Keith your effort paid off for you. Those are good looking targets.
Kurt
Nice. Good lookin project. Looks like it wants to shoot. Thanks for the report and pictures.
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