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Thread: Long rifle at pawn shop

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

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    Long rifle at pawn shop

    I was at a local pawn shop, they had a beautiful long rifle with curly Maple stock. The stock had curl from one end to the other, a full stock. The lock looked like a quality lock, the double triggers look like quality triggers, the wood had some nice carving basically 3 D relief carving and it was fairly well done. They only wanted 100 bucks for the rifle.
    I look down the bore and it was cruddy rusty. It appeared to be 50 caliber and it was rifled. I pulled the ram rod and ran it down the barrel, and it appears that the barrel is loaded. On the other end of the barrel the drum and nipple are missing. When you look in the hole where the drum is, it was solid. So either this gun was left loaded and is going to be a challenge to clean out, or someone filled the bottom of the barrel with something to make it a wall hanger.
    The hammer on the action was full cocked, and pulling the triggers would not drop it. neither trigger would move at all like they were jammed. I am betting that I could get the lock in the triggers to working, probably something minor. But the barrel I have questions about. I don't know if you can make a rusty boar shoot worth a darn especially pushing club patched round balls down the bore.
    I am thinking of going back and offering them 25 bucks for the rifle as a wall hanger. The barrel has 3 options, possibly 4. Either leave as is and use with a rough bore, assuming I can clean it out. Coat the bore with something to smooth it out, like fuel tank liner type stuff. Replace the barrel, or possibly get it rebored to 54 caliber or drilled out and lined.
    There were no makers marks on the gun at all, I don't think it was a kit gun, but a gun that somebody put together from parts such as from track of the Wolf, it's etc.
    I am pretty sure I can get the lock and trigger working well, but what are your thoughts on how to deal with this rusty bore barrel?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy nueces5's Avatar
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    I would buy it thinking of the worst option. The most expensive will be to change the barrel. Consider that in the budget.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Those are the types of guns that I try to find.
    I do all my own work short of Reboring the barrels.
    I have made a few gems out of what others would consider Wall hangers.
    And I got them at a good price.
    If nothing more, they let me practice my Skill Set, so I know what to do when I come across that Rare Find that is well worth my time to go all out and restore it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Maybe the owner will dicker on the price, but based on your description even for 100 bucks I'd buy it. As you said, I'm sure the lock's problem can be solved, and the barrel can be re-bored to a larger caliber. Also, there is just a possibility that, since you can't find any maker's marks, the rifle could be handmade by one of the backwoods master rifle makers and be quite valuable. That possibility aside, it still sounds well worth the money.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    if the stock if purty and curly, that alone is worth 100 bucks...
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I'd buy it and fix whatever needs fixin'. Even if I had to re-line or re-bore and re-breach it. Sounds like a future gem to me.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I can think of a couple of scenarios about how it got into pawn.

    The gun may have been built, but the ignition channel got overlooked/undrilled, so the owner pawned it.

    If the trigger's adjustable, someone who didn't know what they were about might have "adjusted" them until they were inoperable, blocked - and it was likewise pawned.



    For $100 (or less, if dickered) I'd buy it, and remove the breechplug to see what's really in there.


    Resolution or not, you can go from there.


    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  8. #8
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    For a hundred bucks, buy it. Parts for a rifle run around a grand now. Some of those old sewer pipes shoot fine.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I would hurry back Buy It Now.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy

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    I bought it. I have a sling on my right arm, due to surgery, show this will be a project in a few weeks when I lose the sling. Thanks to all who have replied. I need to figure out how to post photos.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    From your description and the photo I think you done good.
    Let us know how this project progresses.
    ..

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Right purdy Sir.When you get some time,post up some more.We like pics.Hope all goes well on your heal up.Get well soon.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  14. #14
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    oconeedan , while you are waiting to heal check with these guys, there's a bunch of them that have the experience to give you great help. www.muzzleloadingforum.com/
    Antique Reloading Tool Collector, Historian and Writer
    Newsletter editor: Antique Reloading Tool Collectors Association
    Archive manager, Antique Reloading Tool Collectors Association
    email: pressman@antiquereloadingtools.com
    www.antiquereloadingtools.com

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy

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    OK, I have figgered out how to post pics, photo bucket was screwing with me.



  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy

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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Please keep us posted on what else you find out now that you have the rifle in hand.
    The rifle IMO was well worth what you gave for it.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    Please keep us posted on what else you find out now that you have the rifle in hand.
    The rifle IMO was well worth what you gave for it.
    Thanks!

  19. #19
    Well, you have a Siler lock there, so that's about a $100 dollar lock. The triggers appear to have been misadjusted. That little screw between the triggers controls the amount of the trigger bar sticks up and contacts the sear. Back it out, you should see the front trigger start creeping towards the front. If not, take the triggers out of the gun and look. Could be a broken flat spring, easy to make from hacksaw blade, and jamming things up a bit.
    You did good! Clean the heck out of the barrel, install a new drum, drill it for the nipple using a Track of the Wold drum drilling jig (not expensive) and enjoy!!

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doubletap View Post
    Well, you have a Siler lock there, so that's about a $100 dollar lock.
    You think so? The lock and the triggers are clean and they do work. the triggers are a double set target style, and must be set before the trigger can be tripped. The lock may be a conversion lock, as there is a spot that looks like it was silver soldered and is miscolored. The lock has a tiny "I" stamped inside. The trigger has "DRU" stamped on the side.
    I am still trying to figure out exactly what I have. the barrel is 40 1/2" long, 15/16" across, and 50 caliber. I do think the barrel is loaded, but cannot pull a ball right now because of my shoulder. After I pull the ball and clean it out, I will try to clean the bore as advised above. Thanks for all of your help! Dan



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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check